Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Scott, he means O2 sensor, the one on the exhaust, not air flow meter. Tomas, my O2 sensor packed up on me at about 68000km but i didn't have any issues with shuddering or jerking. i was just using a bit more fuel than before and the engine check light flashed up a few times.

  • Replies 67
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I know, That's why I said to clean the airflow first as it sounds like its running lean.

If the O2 was stuffed it would probably throw an error and run rich.

looks like it was the O2 sensor.. :dry: unplugged it, and its sooooooooooo smooth! no juddering whatsoever in any case of cruise or boost.

i'll take it for a longer drive tomorrow night and see how that goes! :)

it actually feels like its running BETTER and not as rich as before after unplugging it! (less plops and very smooth)

thanks scott! i still wanna pop in and say hi anyway! and check out ur m35 :)

i'll post again when im 100% sure its all fixed!

(i have a feeling it was unplugged WHEN i bought it, and my mech has plugged it

in when going over the car hence the correlation between servicing and the issue starting)

did you change the spart plugs?

You mentioned the car does it over 2500 RPM, does the turbo start to spool up around then? If so it will be putting the engine under more load and the plugs that are in there may be struggling to ignite under load. A O2 sensor is only a electronic measurement that is fed to the ECU so the car runs more smooth (checks ratio of things like fuel and air). This is why it might be a spark issue.

If it was the turbo dying you would hear some horrible noise.

If it was air you would feel somthing similar too a stall. If it was a air flow problem it is 99% of the time a problem through all RPM ranges aswell.

E.G. if its a spark problem you will notice it misfires underload. The way you have described it is like misfire and maybe the plug so not operate well when hot because they are on there way out.

If you changed the plugs you will ave to get your coils looked at so you can iliminate igntion possibilites.

Almost certainly it will be the coil packs on a series 2.

Clique recently fixed issues with his car for about $25 using the spray on sealant on his coil packs. There is a DIY floating around on the forum. It looks neater than covering them with high temp silicone.

thanks guys,

i'll be changing the sparkies when i can find them

tried to get the NGK BCPR6ES gapped to 0.8mm! and i could only find the NGK BCPR6ES-11 gapped to 1.1mm!

wheres the best place to get the right ones?? order online?

The 1.1mm gap is fine unless your coil packs are faulty. You can gap them down to 0.8mm with feeler gauges if you really want to.

The O2 sensor is only worth replacing if it is faulty.

Here is a link to the correct product for fixing coil packs.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...t&p=3587533

my o2 sensor died in my outback (would rattle if you took it out and gave it a shake) and it ran like a piece of poo

it would buck and surge on flat ground but not all the time

also felt really flat to drive unless you were going flat out (o2 is ignored at WOT and above a certain amount of revs)

ended up selling the car cos i though it was about to die on me

wish i had known is was such a simple fix

kudos motorsport sell them online for about $200 for a stag, its the same one as an r34 so it may pay to go to bursons, just tell them that the usual price is about $120 and you should get them for that

btw, s2 ftw

The 1.1mm gap is fine unless your coil packs are faulty. You can gap them down to 0.8mm with feeler gauges if you really want to.

The O2 sensor is only worth replacing if it is faulty.

Here is a link to the correct product for fixing coil packs.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...t&p=3587533

ahhhh so my mechanic told me to gapp to 0.8mm! so i'm gonna follow his lead. thats what they are at currently and the current plugs are platinum.

where in VIC can i buy the gapped to 0.8 NGK BCPR6ES? cos i could only find the BCPR6ES-11

i dont think i know enough about what i'm doing to do that to my coil packs!

i'll change the sparkers first, and if that doesnt fix my problem, then maybe someone can give me a hand doing that fix to the coilpacks! ? (i'll supply beverages :P )

Edited by atomaly
ahhhh so my mechanic told me to gapp to 0.8mm! so i'm gonna follow his lead. thats what they are at currently and the current plugs are platinum.

where in VIC can i buy the gapped to 0.8 NGK BCPR6ES? cos i could only find the BCPR6ES-11

i dont think i know enough about what i'm doing to do that to my coil packs!

i'll change the sparkers first, and if that doesnt fix my problem, then maybe someone can give me a hand doing that fix to the coilpacks! ? (i'll supply beverages :P )

You won't find them pre-gapped to 0.8mm, you'll have to adjust them yourself (if you insist on using that gap.)

I've been running platinum plugs at 1.1mm and 10psi boost on '96-vintage coilpacks for ages. I'm sure that the coilpacks will start to break down one day, but at present they're just fine.

so i'm planning on cleaning my pod filter tonight, and i'll be cleaning my AFM on tuesday night with Scotty (thanks so much dude)

i'm pretty sure my pod is a "DRY" (blitz??) one so i can just soak it then let it dry ??? :D

is there anything i have to be mindful of when cleaning it ??

IMG_0506.jpg

:laugh:

Edited by atomaly

dude it will be your o2 sensor

had the same thing with my outback, exactly the same driving feel and i was younger and poorer and i sold it instead, just try unplugging it and running without it to confirm. its the spark plug looking think that goes into the exhaust just behind the turbo, trace the wires back to find the connector

dude it will be your o2 sensor

had the same thing with my outback, exactly the same driving feel and i was younger and poorer and i sold it instead, just try unplugging it and running without it to confirm. its the spark plug looking think that goes into the exhaust just behind the turbo, trace the wires back to find the connector

i unplugged it and gave it a good drive and it still had the issues! :blink:

hence why i've moved to next solution.....cleaning pod, AFM, and changing the sparkers

I only suggested these things as they are the cheapest option, before replacing hundreds of dollars worth of possibly working parts.

And I would have thought if the O2 sensor was gone it would throw an error but it could still be the case. I will know more when you take me for a drive atomaly.

I only suggested these things as they are the cheapest option, before replacing hundreds of dollars worth of possibly working parts.

And I would have thought if the O2 sensor was gone it would throw an error but it could still be the case. I will know more when you take me for a drive atomaly.

big thanks for talking sense into me :blink: i really dont want to have to spend too much more money on it!

i pulled the pod off and gave it a good wash! (dry type) its a fine metal mesh, so i soaked it for about 15 mins and then washed it off and rinsed thoroughly!!

so much black shit came out of it! the bucket water is black!

its currently drying on my windowseal :down:

hopefully that may improve the air flow!

the AFM will be quite dirty i feel as the inside of the intake pipe near the AFM was just covered in black crap i noticed when i pulled the POD off haha!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Haha, i kow right? Could have bought so many cars for the same amount of money (or less) but driving Unicorn gives you at least +1mln to style 😅. Like wise man said "life's to short to drink cheap wine and drive boring cars" 😉
    • Newbie here, proud owner of an Autech 260RS. I'm on the hunt for wiring diagrams specific to the 260RS, particularly S1. I've ran my eyes through R33, R34 Diagrams, there are some similarities, however continue to find incorrect wire colours and pins on connectors in the 33,34 diagrams.   I was hoping someone could point me in the right direction? I'd be happy to pay for the originals in Japanese. I can translate them, at least they would be accurate.   Any help please would be greatly appreciated, never heard an RB26DETT before let alone driven one, and I've got a spaghetti monster of goodness to sort out.   Cheers Benny  
    • Hey all  im wondering if you can help me please I have put a rb20 box in my r34 gtt as my auto packed up and a friend had a spare box I know it’s not ideal but it will get me up and running for now. we have done the conversation and everything is working great but my Speedo we got a s13 speed sensor but my Speedo reads double now and I bought a speed converter but still not having any luck.  so I thought I’ll reach out and pick your brains  any help would be appreciated please as I wanna drive my car again 
    • Drain it. I got official Matic D but you can get whatever is listed as Matic D compatible.
    • Thanks guys,  Yeah I should at least have them dynoed, at least then I know what I've got as a starting point.  The springs on these are hard as rocks. I vaguely remember Russman saying he was going to sell the shocks to me with the rocks fitted, as he was keeping the softer springs for his new setup.  I didn't click at the time but of course that was to let me know the shock/spring wouldn't be matched.  I also remember pricing up new springs around 2014-15, but, house, money etc. it never happened. So that was another reason to have them rebuilt. I have rebuilt the forks on many motorcycles so I think I could handle the seals on these easily enough, but getting the valving right would be a rabbit hole I cbf exploring.  Duncan, interesting to hear RP was tuning these back then. I might give them a call.  In the mean time I have been busy fitting sway bars. The Whiteline rear sway bar I purchased 15 years ago finally got fitted, along with the Whiteline front bar that showed up last week. Just waiting on new links for the front sway bar to finish that off.  And my spare set of advan AVS VS5's should be back from the powder coaters in a Pearl White finish sometime this week, with a set of Hankook RS4's lined up for fitting.  And then I just have all the suspension bushes to do. A comprehensive kit is on the way... Lots to do before the Ararat hill climb. Cheers guys 🍻   
×
×
  • Create New...