Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys (and girls)

my name's Adam, i'm coming over to your cold wet homeland from sunny Perth late January to work and play for a couple of years. Looking forward to meeting up with some of you at a few cruises etc in the coming months!

Anyways, looking for some help/advice on a few small things.

First - i'm currently insured with HBF, who do great deals over here, but won't insure outside of WA, unless you're on "holiday", and even then only for 6 months. I know this has probably been covered a lot before, but i've rung a few places and not got great quotes. Anyone that could drop a few names of companies i should ring for a 27yo with clean record, that would be great. I currently pay just under $1K per year, much over that and my beloved car is going to get sold to someone more financially secure than i am :)

Second - is transporting the car - anyone have experience doing this? truck Vs train Vs driving over. At the moment i'm leaning towards flying and getting the car transported, full of my stuff, but again seems expensive.

ok, thanks in advance, see some of you soonish

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/29706-moving-to-melbourne/
Share on other sites

Moving to melbourne? you're crazy ! Don't do it! Only kidding :)

Are you talking 3rd party? if not, there is no way you'll get under $1k in melbourne. Closest you will probably get is around $1300 for a complete stocker and i'm about same age/driving record I am through uniquecar (www.uniquecar.com.au)

Just last week I drove 1900km from Melbourne to live in Queensland. While a skyline is definitely up for it and I had no mechanical problems travelling some ~600km a day (and they almost seem built for aussie roads), such long distances can be a bit stressful in parts. And well i also had my door ripped off by a truck along the way (which is probably going to cost me $1000 all up to get all fixed), so bad stuff can easily happen along the highway over long distances and can cost you more in the long run. 1900km cost me about $200 in petrol, which is also something to consider compared to getting it transported over.

Otherwise - good luck with the move..

Being 27 give Shannons a try. There are a few if us with them that get great rates - but they are only for +25yo's really.

And if you are coming over on your own that would be a nasty drive - the 90 Mile Straight would be a killer.

Yep i second shannons..should be around the 1k mark.
WTF!? :D

I'm with Shannons, full comp., with all mods and a spotless driving record. Car is garaged and only driven on weekends

Payin $2,500pa

Spoke to 3 different people (including manager) all said that's the best price available. Was quoted $1600pa through Just Cars, but wasn't fully comfortable with their conditions.

PS: I'm 26 y.o., living in the western suburbs.

ye narkeh but u dun have a GTR... I pay 1500 for full comp, with 4 listed mods (extractors, exhaust, stereo, rims). I'm with Famous, I'm 22 and live near the city.

Hi guys, thanks for the replies, time to start making those oh-so-depressing phone calls.

just to make you curse, over in perth i pay 990 for full comp on only 40% NCB, 26 with clean record and garage.

Same mods - rims, stereo, exhaust, boost etc.

Yeah i remember reading through the Just Cars conditions when i originally got my car and there was some loophole i didn't like, can't recall what it was though.... i think Young & Cool had a similar thing too.

WTF!? :D

I'm with Shannons, full comp., with all mods and a spotless driving record.  Car is garaged and only driven on weekends

Payin $2,500pa

Spoke to 3 different people (including manager) all said that's the best price available.  Was quoted $1600pa through Just Cars, but wasn't fully comfortable with their conditions.

PS: I'm 26 y.o., living in the western suburbs.

Al - mines $1,900 full comp for agreed value of $100K. Shannons can be funny sometimes.

Transporting - AFAIK, unless you're a passenger on the train, it could cost a lot more for just the car, if they'll take it at all. That leaves truck, or drive.

I would expect you'd get a very competitive rate on a returning truck, since the owner would be glad for any income rather than return to Melbourne empty. Maybe check with one of the local dealers as to who brings their cars across from Melbourne.

Or drive - you really should have at least one other driver. It will be tiring, especially in January across the Nullabor.

Hi guys (and girls)

i'm coming over to your cold wet homeland

......it's not so cold and wet here...

In fact, it's so "unwet" that we have been enduring water restrictions for quite a while now.

Wash your car while you can, because you can't even wash your car with the garden hose here! :goddam:

And it's not cold either... today was hovering around 30ish.

:)

Must be the area! :)

Ni are you with shannons? Yours is only a 32 anyway, so it's is cheaper :).

Mine's insured for $23,000.

Andrew, R34 GTR V-spec's are not as common as 33 gtst's, so you don't have all these young guys crashing your type of car regularly. Mine is a high risk car, even more so when insured as a modified car ;).

hmmm. nope the drive really doesn't phase me, done it twice before, just a few day's worth of total boredom though. would prefer to put it on a truck though, just from a wear and tear point of view. found a guy willing to do it for about $500 which i thought was pretty good, said i could cram as much gear into it as possible, as long as he could still squeeze in to drive it.

and neither do u lol

1500... yeah but urs doesnt have a turbo :)

Mine has a turbo and i pay $1700

......and im 21

It would probably be fun driving over, are their any unrestricted speed zones on the way over? Or is that only NT?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...