Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi guys im having a poblem with my S2 attessa 4wd system ,

i have just fitted 2 second hand tyres one on the front pass and

the other on the drivers rear . both tyres have 50% tread and

all 4 tyres are the same size 245/35/19 . now when i drive the car

the 4wd system is coming on under normal driving conditions

front torque gauge reads anywere between 5 kg/m - 10 kg/m

and the car feels as if it is surging . im thinking that maybe because

the tyres are actualy slightly a diffrent rolling dia so therefore the

attessa system sensors are telling it that one of the wheels are spinning

enough to engage the 4wd . im just wondering if anyone has come across

this problem before ??????, there was nothing wrong at all with the car

before the 2 tyres were fitted , and no one touched the car at all while the

tyres were fitted and the guys who fitted didnt break or damage anything

because i watched him like a hawk like i do with anyone who works on my stag

HAHAHA :D;):wacko::D any help will be very much apprciated thanks guys and girls ....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/297204-s2-4wd-problem/
Share on other sites

Dude the diff rolling diameter is defs the prob. As a side not I noticed that the 4wd was kicking in more ofter with just lower tyre pressure (I know of others that this has happened to).

Also as kidafa said dont mix n match tyres from side to side on each axle. Not just for safety reasons but u can damage diffs etc by putting diff size tyres on the one axle.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/297204-s2-4wd-problem/#findComment-4950184
Share on other sites

And risk damage to the 4wd system? Good advice!

plesae tell me how it is going to damage it ? the rear wheels wont be turning faster than the front so it wont send any drive to the front . and the overall difference wont be any greater than the difference between wheel speeds when driving around a corner. i put the space saver on the rear of mine and it was a flamin mongrel . sent like ten% to the front . unplugged the green wire and it was happy as

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/297204-s2-4wd-problem/#findComment-4951837
Share on other sites

thanks guys fo your help in conferming what i thought was the problem. i have changed the tyre that was the problem and it has fixed it . but i have booked the car in for 4 new tyres next week so my problem is now ALL GOOD thanks again eveyone who helped out !!!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/297204-s2-4wd-problem/#findComment-4956136
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...