Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

My dad thinks he spotted them again about 2 weeks ago after 2 months of not seeing them, I think they must drive past occasionally and just to check if its garaged or not which is what dad has seen both times at 5pm with heaps of people around, and then probably plan to come back later at night to steal it, probably what I saw when I caught them with torches at midnight. So dad kicked mums car out of the garage permanently which works well for me. No more having sea salt mist encrusted on my car 3 days after washing it :) .

Edited by Crackfox
  • 2 months later...
  • Replies 56
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

why not install a driveway monitor? I have one across my driveway and it even picks up my cat going past. Its not going to stop your car getting stolen but at least you will have an idea that there are people about.

PM me if you need any more info ok ?

thanks

Just make sure you got Third party fire and theft with all your mods listed in your sum insured. There are professional car theifs out there and if they want it bad enough they will get it. Example the eleanor from Vic Park (I think). 5 Theives actually stole 4 other cars boxing the stang in just to get to steal it.

6.5k u are joking right? i told my insurance they can bash their agreed value up their a## and the bloke said "alright for $17 more a year i will increase agreed value by 2.5k.."

FYI a work colleague, motor vehicle assessor, told me that my R33 GTST 1997 S2 is worth $16,000 market value under the company I work for... Not bad for full comp @ <$800 a year premiums... xs $1150. Yes they insure WA under a couple of brands.

Sounds like you have a problem dude, I'd say maybe do a stake out, do they come during random parts of the week, weekends? If you can get the plates you can report them to the police. Good option is parking your car in the garage and parking another car in the way though.

  • 4 weeks later...
thanks for the replies, I dont really have much money to spare so I'll probably get an ignition/fuel cut switch installed, my dad thinks it should be quite easy to do and said he has done it on his own vehicles in the past

The fuel tank suggestion seems a bit extreme haha specially with my mystery fuel guage that drops from full to empty in 100kms

I do have 3rd party fire+theft however I really wouldn't like to have the car stolen as the stupid women that did my insurance told me "r33s are worth 6.5k at most" according to redbook and I have a 3k excess so the payout would be a grand total of 3.5k :) woohoo.. nearly enough for me to go on boostcruising and buy a VL

I have the same type of insurance for an r33, insured for 10k and 550 excess, mite be an idea shop around for new insurance provider :ermm:

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...

small piece of wire will bridge out any relay haha.

imo best bet would be getting a quick release steering wheel, but if they look in the window they might bring 1 for next time lol.

very good alarm with motion sensors and all that crap?

edit: lol sorry for reviving it

Edited by jimmys-33T
Security cameras with motion detection/recording/notification aren't very expensive or difficult to set up...

cheap security cameras are shit. they have terrible resolution and the IR function on them sucks. and lest say u get some real good video footage of the ass holes, it doesn't matter because the po po wont do anything so the best thing to do is get a good alarm

cheap security cameras are shit. they have terrible resolution and the IR function on them sucks. and lest say u get some real good video footage of the ass holes, it doesn't matter because the po po wont do anything so the best thing to do is get a good alarm

You're buying the wrong stuff then and if you're relying on the in-built IR LED's, you're an idiot. Please don't tell me how to suck eggs :/




  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Totally equivalent. Stock often goes from the comp cover because that's where the actuator is also installed and the factory needs 2" of hose to make the connection - and it comes as a pre-assembled unit. They totally have a boost reference from somewhere between the turbo and the throttle(s). Oh, jeez. Just do it in M12 then. We don't actually care that much. I would expect any such AN converter fitting to rely on an o-ring or some other seal onto a flat surface under the flange of the hex**, because bolt threads are no intended to provide a pressure seal. unlike..... pipe threads. **which also requires a suitably flat and smooth surface on the turbo's boss to provide the seal.
    • I also used NP   That’s were it’s seems to be the best place to fit it? All schematic shows also that it’s should be referenced from the turbo housing. But idk, I do see high hp cars without any connection or anything to their turbos, so I really don’t know how they connect their things
    • I do have loctite 243 and 246 and a few more models. I could drill it now in place and make new threads for m12 and order an4 - m12 coupling and fit that to the turbo. Run a braided hose to the EBC which I could get a an4 to 1/8npt 
    • So M12 and sealant should be fine?    NPT ” because that’s what I had and what I could get atm. 
    • Wouldn’t touch par if they gave it to me. You need to ask how much power you’re looking to make and then add about 50% to it because that’s what you’ll end up making  The factory box says no more at about 350kw or so, the upgraded synchro boxes won’t handle much over 500kw for long and at that point you’re looking at an auto or dog engagement manual,  once you’ve gone dog engagement you may as well go sequential, they cost a little bit more but it’s worth it  also while you’re at it you should upgrade the transfer case with 10 friction plates 
×
×
  • Create New...