Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

yeah luke's onto it haha Pete down at autosport hooked me up, top bloke & the seats are awesome! Couldnt have asked for better!

yeah luke's onto it haha Pete down at autosport hooked me up, top bloke & the seats are awesome! Couldnt have asked for better!

yeah....not know about that it a struggle already getting into the drive way lol but i not 100% happy with the front of the car but i dunno whats wrong with it...i think i may get a East bear lip on it & hopefully that will slove my problem lol however then ill have even more problems getting in the garage....arrr the problems are never ending haha

  • 1 month later...

Bit of an update,

Now sporting some White TE37's & a yellow canary on the window.

Went though regency a week ago completely standard ish...but didn’t pass because of window tint, GTR wheels with brand new tires & the zenon hid's which i thought were standard. Waiting till pay day to get new tires for my standard wheels then going to go back though, luckily a friend from high school has a 34 now too and she's offered for me to borrow her headlight to go to regency with.

After I’ve gotten of defect I need to ether get some longer wheel studs or 10mm spacers with longer studs what do you guys reckon? Also can any tell me where i got for logner wheel studs?

  • 1 month later...

Update*

Soo anyways my bestmate ended up getting my car defected wile i had no license haha so been like 1 step forward 2 steps back but anyways all cleared now and cars completely standard & regency approved :(

but anyways that wasn't going to stay that way for long haha i ended up swapping the GTR wheels for a set of white TE37's with 'rad32' of here and yeah really happy with them. Put them on for the first time the other day and took some photos so here they are:

14e3ti1.jpg

Fronts 18x8.5 +25ish Rears 18x9.5 +20ish

2vj3caw.jpg

Fronts could maybe do with a 10mm spacer and some smaller tires, thinking 225's instead of the 235's

255ns78.jpg

Rears im really happy with :(

I know about the mexican 4x4 lol the coilovers & exhaust should hopefully going in on saturday along with an HSK EVC 6 & display unit that i picked up yesterday. It wont be as low as the last time, going to raise it up to a legal-ish height i think :( and yeah think thats all i need to say atm

oh the bucket seats are now forsale $2250 $2250ono or swap for a full 25neo manual converstion heres the link:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/2x...tml&hl=velo

awesome, so go the exhaust back on and along with that fitted up my new EVC and works good need to mount it properly n stuff yet but good for now lol anyways I took it for a test drive on 44KPA which is around 6PSI, it seams more responsive but its now hitting boost cut now under heavy acceleration. I thought standard was 7psi? i'v put my low boost on 44kpa & the high boost on 83kpa (12psi).

anybody got some suggestions?

thanks

-lewis

  • 2 weeks later...

Well i though to resolve the problem i had with the boost is to get a nistune remap & overall make the car run better so that’s going to Dex up at garage 7 early next week. So hopefully ill get some good power, iv never had any of my cars on the dyno so im rather excited. I would like to make around the 170-180 mark so fingers crossed a few people said i might not make that though cos its auto, is that true?

Also the exhaust is on now too so got the awesome RB grumble back along with coilovers and TE37’s are on too.

A few more little visual mods going on this month, my rays lock nuts got delivered this afternoon so they will get going on over the weekend along with hopefully a new vivagarage ducktail lip. But i didnt want to go the same way luke went with his 4door (as tough as it is!) so i went with something different. when it arrive from USA (taking a gamble here!) an evo style vortex generator. I don’t know how it will look because the 34’s roof is rather flat and long but we’ll see I’m pretty excited. Colour scheme: I’m thinking of doing them both in a glossy black or get them painted up the same as the car with pewter.

Up for subjections

2nkkqbl.jpg

Vortex Generator

w9gtwo.jpg

Bootlip

smzwbt.jpg

Also still sporting the banana breaks, Legendary!

I got one of the ducktail lips for mine, needed heaps of prep work and wasnt the best fit, gonna get a proper jap one i think.

thanks man, your the second person to have said something along the same lines so think ill get the origin one :banana:

I gave the skyline a bit of a wash n decided to take some new photos with the differnt wheels on the weekend so here they are :)

2qvcpcj.jpg

o0xjsm.jpg

intysp.jpg

Needs 25mm bolt on

166b4ih.jpg

anyways dropped the skyline off to dex up at garage 7 this morning so should get it back later this week sometime. hopeing for it to make about 170-80ish on the dyno fingers crossed and running better too :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
    • So, a bit of a side trip, but one that might be interesting for people with JDM cars and japanese head units. I know @Pac previously posted about a carplay/android auto adapter he installed which used the AUX input, and @V35_Paul put in one of the Tesla style units that replace both screens. The option I went with was a Lsait LLT-YF-VER5.87_2 (https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Lsailt-8GB-Android-Multimedia-Interface-for_1601187633672.html). Price was $1,150 for a single unit although they are much cheaper if you are willing to buy 2....$857ea. Make you you get the version 2 not version 1, it is faster and has a better UI - this is the manufacturer listing: http://www.lsailt.com/product/348.html. BTW if you've never bought from Alibaba before, don't be concerned....these guys can't stay in business unless they are responsive, ship fast etc, they were excellent (probably faster shipping than most local places) So, this was my task for a lazy Sat afternoon....looks complex but was all done in a few hours (it probably helps that I had some of it apart before so it was a bit familiar). I also decided to add a HD USB drive recorded at the same time and the unit also supports an aftermarket reverse cam (if you don't want to retain factory) and also AV in and HDMI out It looks much worse than it is, in fact in was genuinely all plug and play (no custom wiring at all). This video was pretty good (skipped a few steps), unfortunately they are an Aussie seller but no longer sell this unit (I guess Carplay/AA adapters are easier to install and much cheaper) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T5hJfYOB8Dg
×
×
  • Create New...