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Don't mean to judge, but by the sound of you, I think you underestimate how much time/effort/money would go into a 320rwkw build...

at the VERY LEAST, your gonna need a 20psi + capable turbo to reach 320rwkw, plus i doubt stock internals are good for 320rwkw.

so youd need:

fuel pump

injectors

bigger turbo (GT35, TO4z/e)

pistons/rings

rods/bearings

head gasket

head studs

cams (not necessity but would make things easier)

aftermarket engine management

big exhaust

big breaks

then apart from that, for drifting youd need:

coilovers

separate rim/tyre combo

a good diff

oil cooler

clutch and/or flywheel

but yeh, you could go to town with an engine build.

all depends on your application...

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I made 320rwkw in my r33 streeter using the following:

Built motor (rb26 crank and rods forged piston)

Garret GT3082r turbo on 6boost manifold with turbosmart gate

Hks step 1 cams

555cc injectors

blitz fmic

trust 3" exhaust

Hks ecu

If I were to build an engine from scratch for drifting I would aim for lower power and more response.

250rwkw with nice response is much more fun than 320kw with lag.

I'v seen plenty of rb25s make 300kw on stock bottom ends so if you weren't worried about long term reliability you could probably make 300kw with just basic bolt ons. maybe

gt35r turbo

700cc injectors

nistune

the usual intake and exhaust?

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i would say my setup is ideal for what you are after:

i make 285rwkw on pulp and 320rwkw on e85,

so you can have good enough response for drift, and 320 when you want it for the strip....

motor is stock

hks 2835 pro s

nismo 555cc injectors

nismo fuel pump

hybrid gt FMIC

apexi power intake

steel induction pipe

cold air box with intake

z32 afm

apexi power fc

blitz dsbc spec s

fc datalogit box

3" turbo back zorst w decat

thats $10,000 in parts right there...

and then there's installing the shit.... you can do that yourself, or pay.

and then there's tuning...

you'd probably get away with around 2k for both...

in my opinion you also need the following to make it worth the effort:

button clutch $1.5k+

mech diff $2k

suspension mods $4k+

good rubber $1.5k+

so realisticly that's a $20,000 power level when its all said and done... however it can be done cheaper... but not heaps...

you could also use a 2nd hand highflow, stock injectors, stock afm, stock clutch, stock suspension, shit rubber, no name fmic, no name zorst, manual boost cont, greddy emanage, welded diff and be happy with a responsive 230rwkw for around say 3-4k....

you really have to ask yourself which direction do you want to go?

personally after its all said and done, i'm very happy with my car how it is, but would i do it that way again? probably... but i'd try not to.... :D

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Personally for that power level and stock engine i would be running E85 and the following mods.

3037 on standard exhaust manifold with 18psi can

Power FC or Vipec (alot of users rave about the vipec)

Sard 850 injectors

Bosch 044 internal pump

Standard inlet Manifold

Decent Boost controller

Blitz LM cooler (retains stock inlet piping)

Z32 AFM

Real good exhaust 3.5inch

On 20 ish psi you should see upward of 320rwkw with a good tuner.

Heres a dyno graph of my mates R33 and mine, his in Red and 3582 turbo... my car in blue running HKS3037.

Oh and a pic of my engine bay to show how stealth you can have it all looking.

post-46183-1259619026_thumb.jpg

post-46183-1259619057_thumb.jpg

Edited by RB25DETS2
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so realisticly that's a $20,000 power level when its all said and done... however it can be done cheaper... but not heaps...

And then... when you bust a motor, which is certainly on the cards @ 300-320rwkw...

Add another 5-10k on top of the 20k.

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And then... when you bust a motor, which is certainly on the cards @ 300-320rwkw...

Add another 5-10k on top of the 20k.

Personally i wouldnt push my RB25 past 280rwkw on pump fuel. My XR6T is happy as a p*g on 16psi and 327rwkw pump fuel (something to be said for cubic inches i guess).

Edited by RB25DETS2
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As said above there are a number of ways to get to your goal but dont look to spend less then 10000 and then you got the question of the path you follow you can go the cheapest path which using cheap parts and pumping as much as you can into your stock motor and get the power but not being safe for your engine or you get the quality bolt on parts you and build it up to that power level slowly and also making a decision along the line once you pass 280kw to keep going since your putting the stock engine at risk or you can just go all out and get the motor built to take the power and get all the supporting mods done properly, in my opinion as this is what I did save up for all the bolt on and supporting mods you need do them first then get your car at a power like 280kw where is still somewat reliable on stock engine and when you feel you can afford to fork out for a new engine push the engine so even if it does give out youre atleast prepared for a rebuld

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