Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 115
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

should i just buy a whole bunch of stuff tomorrow, that's close enough to what i want, just so i can get an invoice for 31st Dec, 09, to satisfy the tax break, and then maybe nut it out a bit more after that when i have the luxury of time and just not open/install anything?

Get a 5870 Gfx card, coz if you dont want it i will buy it second hand off you :-) ehehehehehe!

Honestly Gohan, there is soooooo many combinations of different good things out there. Give a reputable store a call or use some of the advice we have given you so far.

some good info from the following 3 in recent threads from Mayuri crab, 31 Nismoid and DivX hunter, they seem to be our most prominent posters in here (that or they are post whores :-) ) and most of the stuff they have said seems pretty much spot on from the reviews so take on some of the info they have given.

If the tax break ends 31st Dec then yeah go for it. I would just hate it though if you ordered something that isnt compatible BUT that is easily overcome when you speak to the store before ordering :-)

someone told me about centrecom, and their pricing is very similar to msy but they seem to have a lot bigger range. They said they can back date invoices up until around Jan 15th.

going to email one of the sales guys there with what's in this thread plus some of my other thoughts about items, and he'll see if he can price match msy as well. Ash and others have given great advice but i've been asking other people as well, and i think i have definitely overloaded myself with info (tom's hardware, etc) - and there are still some things i want to check out like the 80 Plus PSU's, which are meant to be a little 'greener', which sounded interesting.

msy won't back date invoices... not much of a surprise really

someone told me about centrecom, and their pricing is very similar to msy but they seem to have a lot bigger range. They said they can back date invoices up until around Jan 15th.

going to email one of the sales guys there with what's in this thread plus some of my other thoughts about items, and he'll see if he can price match msy as well. Ash and others have given great advice but i've been asking other people as well, and i think i have definitely overloaded myself with info (tom's hardware, etc) - and there are still some things i want to check out like the 80 Plus PSU's, which are meant to be a little 'greener', which sounded interesting.

msy won't back date invoices... not much of a surprise really

The PSU i said was solid for the price range - one of the best for 650 range. The HX650 is 80/Bronze Certified.

If you want to go Corsair HX750, then the Corsair HX750 is again, one of the best.

The Corsair HX850 review is here & the 750 is the same calibre.

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?t=241232

Trust me when i reccomend parts - i've done all the reasearch :D

There are sometimes better products out there - however i always work on a price vs performance basis.

They are not bad as such - i just often see BIOS's etc are slow to update... and generally intel bring out the first boards, and some of them really aren't as good as the other makers using the intel chipset who spend more R&D time on them and hence launches sometimes are a month or two behind retail

^ What he said.

The budget intel boards are dry on features &/or OC abilities while the "exterme" intel branded boards are fine, but there are cheaper (& better) alternatives avaliable from others like Asus & Gigabyte.

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...

Reading this thread with interest as I'm also looking to buy a gaming, multimedia development system. I don't do much gaming but I used to do 3D mapping for the older games like Quake 3, so would like to do a bit of mapping on Far Cry2 and Crysis 2. I'm also into the driving games like Grid. I was very disappointed with the 8600GTS in my Dell XPS that promised "reasonable" Crysis gaming, I want 50+fps this time not 10.

Why would you recommend the i7++ over the i5? Would the motherboards supporting i3/i5 also support the rest including the i9? My intention is to get a middle of the range CPU and later upgrade it to a higher one when I need the extra performance. I'm tailoring mine towards the economy side as I'll probably have the PC running all day hence the need for LED screens.

Here's my proposed setup :

CPU - i5

m/b - Gigabyte GA-X58-UD3R

Ram - 4GB

PSU - Corsair HX620 or 550w (don't need 750 or 800 power generators)

Video - GTX275 or 5770 (5770 uses quite a bit less power but if the 275 is ahead by a mile then I'll go with that)

Monitor - dual LED 23/24" monitors (Samsung or Dell)

Storage - 1TB, Blueray writer

On top of all this, I'll be dual booting/VPNing between Windows and Ubuntu.

i3/i5 = P55

i7/i9 = X58

The X58 is a faster, more expensive piece of hardware. It's up to you to decide what you need.

The X58 will also be running the 6core chips when they come out, so reports indicate.

It's like saying, why can't I just drop an LS3 into a skyline? Why do I have to do so many mods? It all does the same stuff! This is bullshit!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • See if you can thermal epoxy a heatsink or two onto it?
    • The other problem was one of those "oh shit we are going to die moments". Basically the high spec Q50s have a full electric steering rack, and the povo ones had a regular hydraulic rack with an electric pump.  So couple of laps into session 5 as I came into turn 2 (big run off now, happily), the dash turned into a christmas tree and the steering became super heavy and I went well off. I assumed it was a tyre failure so limped to the pits, but everything was OK. But....the master warning light was still on so I checked the DTCs and saw – C13E6 “Heat Protection”. Yes, that bloody steering rack computer sitting where the oil cooler should be has its own sensors and error logic, and decided I was using the steering wheel too much. I really appreciated the helpful information in the manual (my bold) POSSIBLE CAUSE • Continuing the overloading steering (Sports driving in the circuit etc,) “DATA MONITOR” >> “C/M TEMPERATURE”. The rise of steering force motor internal temperature caused the protection function to operate. This is not a system malfunction. INSPECTION END So, basically the electric motor in the steering rack got to 150c, and it decided to shut down without warning for my safety. Didn't feel safe. Short term I'll see if I can duct some air to that motor (the engine bay is sealed pretty tight). Long term, depending on how often this happens, I'll look into swapping the povo spec electric/hydraulic rack in. While the rack should be fine the power supply to the pump will be a pain and might be best to deal with it when I add a PDM.
    • And finally, 2 problems I really need to sort.  Firstly as Matt said the auto trans is not happy as it gets hot - I couldn't log the temps but the gauge showed 90o. On the first day I took it out back in Feb, because the coolant was getting hot I never got to any auto trans issues; but on this day by late session 3 and then really clearly in 4 and 5 as it got hotter it just would not shift up. You can hear the issue really clearly at 12:55 and 16:20 on the vid. So the good news is, literally this week Ecutek finally released tuning for the jatco 7 speed. I'll have a chat to Racebox and see what they can do electrically to keep it cooler and to get the gears, if anything. That will likely take some R&D and can only really happen on track as it never gets even warm with road use. I've also picked up some eye wateringly expensive Redline D6 ATF to try, it had the highest viscosity I could find at 100o so we will see if that helps (just waiting for some oil pan gaskets so I can change it properly). If neither of those work I need to remove the coolant/trans interwarmer and the radiator cooler and go to an external cooler....somewhere.....(goodbye washer reservoir?), and if that fails give up on this mad idea and wait for Nissan to release the manual 400R
    • So, what else.... Power. I don't know what it is making because I haven't done a post tune dyno run yet; I will when I get a chance. It was 240rwkw dead stock. Conclusion from the day....it does not need a single kw more until I sort some other stuff. It comes on so hard that I could hear the twin N1 turbos on the R32 crying, and I just can't use what it has around a tight track with the current setup. Brakes. They are perfect. Hit them hard all day and they never felt like having an issue; you can see in the video we were making ground on much lighter cars on better tyres under brakes. They are standard (red sport) calipers, standard size discs in DBA5000 2 piece, Winmax pads and Motul RBF600 fluid, all from Matty at Racebrakes Sydney. Keeping in mind the car is more powerful than my R32 and weighs 1780, he clearly knows his shit. Suspension. This is one of the first areas I need to change. It has electronically controlled dampers from factory, but everything is just way too soft for track work even on the hardest setting (it is nice when hustling on country roads though). In particular it rolls into oversteer mid corner and pitches too much under hard braking so it becomes unstable eg in the turn 1 kink I need to brake early, turn through the kink then brake again so I don't pirouette like an AE86. I need to get some decent shocks with matched springs and sway bars ASAP, even if it is just a v1 setup until I work out a proper race/rally setup later. Tyres. I am running Yoko A052 in 235/45/18 all round, because that was what I could get in approximately the right height on wheels I had in the shed (Rays/Nismo 18x8 off the old Leaf actually!). As track tyres they are pretty poor; I note GTSBoy recently posted a porker comparo video including them where they were about the same as AD09.....that is nothing like a top line track tyre. I'll start getting that sorted but realistically I should get proper sized wheels first (likely 9.5 +38 front and 11 +55 at the rear, so a custom order, and I can't rotate them like the R32), then work out what the best tyre option is. BTW on that, Targa Tas had gone to road tyres instead of semi slicks now so that is a whole other world of choices to sort. Diff. This is the other thing that urgently needs to be addressed. It left massive 1s out of the fish hook all day, even when I was trying not too (you can also hear it reving on the video, and see the RPM rising too fast compared to speed in the data). It has an open diff that Infiniti optimistically called a B-LSD for "Brake Limited Slip Diff". It does good straight line standing start 11s but it is woeful on the track. Nismo seem to make a 2 way for it.
    • Also, I logged some data from the ECU for each session (mostly oil pressures and various temps, but also speed, revs etc, can't believe I forgot accelerator position). The Ecutek data loads nicely to datazap, I got good data from sessions 2, 3 and 4: https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-2?log=0&data=7 https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-3?log=0&data=6 https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-4?log=0&data=6 Each session is cut into 3 files but loaded together, you can change between them in the top left. As the test sessions are mostly about the car, not me, I basically start by checking the oil pressure (good, or at least consistent all day). These have an electrically controlled oil pump which targets 25psi(!) at low load and 50 at high. I'm running a much thicker oil than recommended by nissan (they said 0w20, I'm running 10w40) so its a little higher. The main thing is that it doesn't drop too far, eg in the long left hand fish hook, or under brakes so I know I'm not getting oil surge. Good start. Then Oil and Coolant temp, plus intercooler and intake temps, like this: Keeping in mind ambient was about 5o at session 2, I'd say the oil temp is good. The coolant temp as OK but a big worry for hot days (it was getting to 110 back in Feb when it was 35o) so I need to keep addressing that. The water to air intercooler is working totally backwards where we get 5o air in the intake, squish/warm it in the turbos (unknown temp) then run it through the intercoolers which are say 65o max in this case, then the result is 20o air into the engine......the day was too atypical to draw a conclusion on that I think, in the united states of freedom they do a lot of upsizing the intercooler and heat exchanger cores to get those temps down but they were OK this time. The other interesting (but not concerning) part for me was the turbo speed vs boost graph: I circled an example from the main straight. With the tune boost peaks at around 18psi but it deliberately drops to about 14psi at redline because the turbos are tiny - they choke at high revs and just create more heat than power if you run them hard all the way. But you can also see the turbo speed at the same time; it raises from about 180,000rpm to 210,000rpm which the boost falls....imagine the turbine speed if they held 18psi to redline. The wastegates are electrically controlled so there is a heap of logic about boost target, actual boost, delta etc etc but it all seems to work well
×
×
  • Create New...