Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

For $3k you can buy genuine & new - import them but be prepared to wait a while to receive them.

RAYS Engineering advertises an 18x7.5 TE37 on their web site for ¥81900 each, which is around AUD$1000 a rim with the current exchange rate.

If you can land them in Australia for AUD$1K under their home-country RRP (I'll assume you're planning on dodging Customs Duty and GST) I'd love to find out where from.

thanks guys for the info, it really helped

god theres some porn-O-grapic rims out there! offt!

im gonna look around for some second hand jap rims as mentioned, thats a good idea!

i was only gonna put 18s on cos i thought it would look good,

but if 17's are better, then ill go 17's - it doesnt faise me

i just want phat offset and rims in the rear

i keep leaning towards the shadow alloy and dark bronze, they are hot!!! but the theme on my car is black on black on black

hard decision!!!

I know some people hate cheap-brand wheels, but the two shortlisted wheels for my SW20 (if I bought new) were:

Koya Drifteks

Lenso D1Rs.

You already know what the Drifteks look like. The D1Rs look like this:

d1rr33.jpg

DSC01397.jpg

They should give you a pretty nice amount of dish (the spoke does curve in near the barrel) and if you're willing to run camber, streched tyres and massaged guards they do come in GT-R offsets.

Even without, cars with as shitty offsets as S2000s can get good dish:

138220_2009081416.jpg

Edited by scathing

Yeah, your definately better off with 17"s, to many people go large diameter rims just for the hell of it, and they actually perform worse.

You need a certain amount of rubber, running on rubber bands just doesn't perform well at all.

woah..could not believe that you said you wanna spend 2-3k on wheels and u wanted bsa te37 copies? also the lack of jap rim recommendations lol. just doesn't sound right?

u could buy 18x10 +18 xd9's and powder coat them black for about 2500?

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/WORK-WHEELS-XD9-SKY...=item439b925592

or cr kais for abit less.

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/WORK-WHEELS-CR-KAI-...=item45ef85c603

or else check import monsters stock and j imports for sure with jap rims.

RAYS Engineering advertises an 18x7.5 TE37 on their web site for ¥81900 each, which is around AUD$1000 a rim with the current exchange rate.

If you can land them in Australia for AUD$1K under their home-country RRP (I'll assume you're planning on dodging Customs Duty and GST) I'd love to find out where from.

Your price of $1k may be a little high as even the obvious importer lists them at a discount to that figure.

But you are right in that $3k for an TE37 in 18" is a non starter given the current exchange rate. Other of the Volk rims are doable within that budget.

I would be happier paying a bit more than that for the real thing than paying for a knock off.

at first, i was looking at getting the xd9 18 x 10 in matte bronze but the 10' wide wouldnt fit on the rear ( as it is a GTST with GTR front guards) without alot of guard mod, adjustable camber arms and better coils

and i didnt want the 18 x 9 because i wanted the dish of the 18 x 10.

and i was also looking at the BSA replica TE37s only because i never thought id actually come into reach of a genuine set of ray te37s.

Check out these wheels Work XD9 madbray (MBG) These are the latest finish to just come out !post-68456-1260257006_thumb.jpgpost-68456-1260257039_thumb.jpg

That is Colin's. Look really good in real life too.

Shiv: You might wanna check if your car will fit those offsets. Numbers look like a GTR offset to me. If so, you'll need to roll some guards or do something to make them fit.

Your price of $1k may be a little high as even the obvious importer lists them at a discount to that figure.

True, but that's offset by the fact that importers have to pay to ship them from Japan whereas the local retailers would not.

But you are right in that $3k for an TE37 in 18" is a non starter given the current exchange rate

I paid around $4K for mine about 2 years ago. It was before the bubble burst.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If you mean the alarm immobiliser; theyre internal to the alarm itself which makes that difficult; I couldnt even see where he put it; its not in the same place as last time; but with all black wiring it might be very challenging to trace  I had someone turn the key for me as I know it only primes for a couple of seconds As my post above; I am getting no voltage to the pump at all; but I am testing continuity of the power line (SB) from the pump plug to the relay fine. As well as the negative from the pump plug to a 12V constant.    Yeah; he blammed the no start on a bad battery; said I needed to get a new battery and it'll start. Turns out the battery drained because the tail lights had been on for half the day during the install (the rubber cushion on the brake switch gave out while he was testing it as I have a picture of the car from that morning with the tail lights off..i've replaced that). The battery was turning over the engine just fine for a long time; but got low since lights were draining it so it was too low to test a start after he finished. I bought a new one on his advice...$250 wasted. My original battery charged up just fine and is healthy.    It was running perfectly fine when I messed up the old alarm (programmed out the remotes). He couldnt start it after removing the old alarm; my assumption is that when he unhooked it; he didnt bridge the circuit back when trying to start it. Its always been perfectly fine. The ECU swap and pump were 2 years ago. It's never missed a beat in that time. 
    • This is a big issue for me without the diff. I just have zero drive from the passenger side when drivers side has no traction. Bec's parents place has a crazy steep driveway with odd camber and I have never been able to get up. My bro-in-law's 130i with an (unknown brand) LSD gets up fine as does their dad's Hiace. My car stays at the bottom. We have other odd camber roads around here as we're elevated a bit and if it's raining I can get totally stuck around some hairpins. 
    • Yeah, I am super excited for this.
    • Was the car running before he touched the car?
×
×
  • Create New...