Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

thinking of pumping out a couple of supercharger kits for rb twincam engines. already made 1. 8-9 psi. switch on and off mad max style. made my r32 rb20 go like a rocket (dump 4th and it lights up 18 inch wheels) and confuses lots of people. fine on standard computer. just want to gauge interest before pricing.

Also, if you're using a Toyota supercharger, please make sure its a new one. Using second hand stuff in a kit is cool and all but not quite professional. Pretty backyardy.

Please advise on parts used and what exactly the mounting procedure is.

Note: to others reading, hears a disclaimer. DON'T BE A C*NT AND STEAL THIS DUDES IDEAS. WE WILL FIND YOU.

...supercharger kits for rb twincam engines...8-9 psi. switch on and off mad max style. made my r32 rb20 go like a rocket (dump 4th and it lights up 18 inch wheels)...

There is bending the truth.

Then there is lying.

Then there is speaking shit.

And then there is that statement.

Edited by PM-R33

And then there is you

Your obviously insecure about something.

built not bought..... pfffft. with a shopping list that big. you got something to prove??

ill try get sum pics tomorrow you scallywag

isn't built not bought referring to modifying a car yourself rather than buying one which has previously? meh superchargers, if they were any good they'd be being used on RB30's already.

They are. Youtube it.

And then there is you

Your obviously insecure about something.

built not bought..... pfffft. with a shopping list that big. you got something to prove??

ill try get sum pics tomorrow you scallywag

Lol god people like you make me laugh. Typical response of a person that knows he is losing an argument, having to make it personal with attacks, typical brain function of a weak minded individual. I'm not going to bother arguing with you, i dont need to, because i know what is possible and what isn't. So ill just wait for you to post up your "RB supercharger kit" that runs 9psi and "lights up 18" tyres in 4th gear" and let the good people of SAU judge whether or not your speaking shit :P

Edited by PM-R33

Hooray for the NA section =\

sooooo...9psi on a standard NA computer, with the standard fuel reg injectors etc and makes enough grunt to smoke 4th gear....wait isnt it school holidays in some states already....

All it's going to be is an SC14 Toyota supercharger for around the $300-$600 mark with some custom brackets made up. It'll rob the car of some down low power and make up for it in the midrange and up top to about 140-160rwkw, if that. Nothing new. Hardly 4th gear tyre frying.

Edited by PM-R33

9PSi... 2.5L... Tyre frying in 4th... WITH a clutch dump...

Where am I going wrong? 14PSi turbo'd... 3.0L... Only shreds the tyres in 3rd... With the push of the throttle... Should I try a clutch dump in 4th?

Or are we talking you only chirped the tyres in 4th? Cause I can mention mine unsettles across the start finish line of OP GP in 4th... But that's just not fair...

9PSi... 2.5L... Tyre frying in 4th... WITH a clutch dump...

Where am I going wrong? 14PSi turbo'd... 3.0L... Only shreds the tyres in 3rd... With the push of the throttle... Should I try a clutch dump in 4th?

Or are we talking you only chirped the tyres in 4th? Cause I can mention mine unsettles across the start finish line of OP GP in 4th... But that's just not fair...

maybe you weren't driving in pooring rain with bald tyres on a road where a car had just had it's sump plug come out.

all that saying "frying the tyres in 4th" says to me is that you either talk a lot of shit or really need to stop buying the absolute cheapest tyres on the market.

and there is no way a rb20 could fry the tyres in 4th on a stock ecu.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Is the panel filter one that is oiled? Have you ever cleaned or touched the AFM?
    • So.... the K&N air box thingo was too big, ended up gifting it to a mate, well, by gifting it he actually supplied food and beer at the pub,  which was nice, as it will not sit on a shelf in the garage for the next 10 years I did trim up some of the existing stuff to neaten it all up and gave it some wrinkle paint, unfortunately it currently has a used and abused mish mash of different types of hose clamps, 4 big fat T bolt type (shit), and a few normal clamps of vairing sizes and brands, but..... only until the 6 constant tension black worm clamps that I ordered from EFI solutions turn up next week Currently the current hose clamps are triggering me hard, LOL Is this the final version, probably not, I really want just 2 silicone pieces, a straight bit of silicone from the filter to the MAF is easy and will happen as soon as I head into Just Jap tomorrow, the problematic part is a 30° silicone bend from the MAF to the TB that I can connect the engine breather from the head, I found that there are bulk head fittings for boat bilge pumps that should work, but until I can get a 30° silicone bend the alloy pipe, and the 11ty thousand hose clamps, are there for the foreseeable future 4 hose clamps are golden, 6 are grudgingly acceptable, the 8 currently holding it all together is just taking the piss    I've also ordered 60 more retaining wall blocks for the front yard, I mis-gonculated the height that was required to get above the base of the Photinia's (red robin's) that are the hedge behind the front fence, currently it is 2 blocks high, and about 1/2 a block short, so going 3 blocks high will be above the base of the red robin's, and allow some room for mulch
    • It is the stock air box with the panel filter. Everything else is stock except the exhaust at this point, as I also went back to the cleaned 270cc injectors. I will check the RPM when the IACV is unplugged and report back.
    • As MBS suggested if this is happening when the engine is cold you're going to want to remove the intake air regulator and verify resistance + that the shutter is physically opening and closing. At -20C should be fully open, 20C half open, over 60C fully closed. At 20C should be 70-80 ohms. For AAC valve testing using a Consult cable see if you can raise and lower the idle by commanding more or less AAC duty cycle. Hopefully it's pretty linear as well, shouldn't be like 30% AAC valve is barely idling and 40% is 1500 rpm.
    • Bloody apprentices! 🙄
×
×
  • Create New...