Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

On saturday my car broke down. It wasn't a extremely hot day but was a tad warm so I was driving with my a/c on as you do. After a while my car had no power really struggled to accelerate and after a while wouldn't accelerate at all when under load. Turned off the a/c and limped to a mates place. The temperature gauge on the dash ( standard dash cluster ) was reading normal temp. After the car had cooled down i d/c the sender and the guage went to zero then reconnected it and it was reading again. I went to pop the bonnet but it was too hot to touch and the left front guard was too hot to touch also. So waited for it to cool down. After it had cooled down it took 2 litres of water in the radiator number six cylinder wasn't firing. Pulled out the plug and it was gummed up with carbon and wasnt firing. After all that was done started it up and it ran ok. Drove to toowoomba and the temp gauge got to normal but it was really thirsty. Got back to brisbane everything was too hot to touch the radiator was full and it was running fine.

I'm thinking that my thermostat isn't opening / working.

Any quick thoughts before I

1. Shoot it

2. Trade it in on a Excel

3. Go to the mechanic's and get shafted ?

Thanks in advance,

Me

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/299197-1996-r33-series-ii/
Share on other sites

On saturday my car broke down. It wasn't a extremely hot day but was a tad warm so I was driving with my a/c on as you do. After a while my car had no power really struggled to accelerate and after a while wouldn't accelerate at all when under load. Turned off the a/c and limped to a mates place. The temperature gauge on the dash ( standard dash cluster ) was reading normal temp. After the car had cooled down i d/c the sender and the guage went to zero then reconnected it and it was reading again. I went to pop the bonnet but it was too hot to touch and the left front guard was too hot to touch also. So waited for it to cool down. After it had cooled down it took 2 litres of water in the radiator number six cylinder wasn't firing. Pulled out the plug and it was gummed up with carbon and wasnt firing. After all that was done started it up and it ran ok. Drove to toowoomba and the temp gauge got to normal but it was really thirsty. Got back to brisbane everything was too hot to touch the radiator was full and it was running fine.

I'm thinking that my thermostat isn't opening / working.

Any quick thoughts before I

1. Shoot it

2. Trade it in on a Excel

3. Go to the mechanic's and get shafted ?

Thanks in advance,

Me

4. Take it to Dan @ ERD and get looked after :(

It definitely sounds like you're losing your cooling fluid somewhere.

Your guage will read normal because there is no fluid in the system for it to take a reading from so it simply reads air temp.

Get your cooling system checked.

It definitely sounds like you're losing your cooling fluid somewhere.

Your guage will read normal because there is no fluid in the system for it to take a reading from so it simply reads air temp.

Get your cooling system checked.

Who's a good person to do that ?

you could use any radiator specialist... I see your at ascot, so pickering street is not to far and there are 3 different radiator mobs there...

or you can use someone like ERD or similar...

Just google it ? Who's ERD ?

Any mechanic will be able to do it for you if you're pressed for money or time to get it to an import mechanic.

Having said that, I use tuff toys at Virginia and they're great. Know their jap cars inside and out

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This car has run before on this z32 ecu can get the part number for you, I have tried with no AFM it didn’t change anything, I compression tested today 140-150 across all 6 cylinders, also set fuel pressure to 43psi. The only weird thing was cylinder 1 plug was black and fouled other 5 cylinders were just wet with fuel. Spun cas by hand and confirmed injectors are clicking 
    • Since you came here to ask for help, have you thought about answering our questions, that might help us lead you to why it was skipping, or have you given up on getting advice?
    • A 1.5 way is a 2 way. It is just a 2 way with a less aggressive ramp on overrun.
    • The ABS and/or TCS being missing/broken will not cause the engine to misbehave. It just casues CEL to come on and annoy you. The CEL is useless if it is always on, so you have to do the things you have to do to get rid of it, so it can be useful. Being a Stag ECU, then yes, it will not expect TCS to be present. But it will expect ABS to be present and working. You will need to either make the ABS CU talk to the ECU (don't ask me what that will take on an NA R34), and make sure the hardware is working....or, you just need to blank it out in Nistune. Do not persist with the stock ECU. You will just have problems. Gte it Nistuned. Start from there. DO YOU HAVE A BOOST SENSOR? The ECU's boost sensor that it. It is connected to the loom at the rear of the coil cover. Usually rides on the firewall on an R34, but is usually bolted down to a bracket along with all the other crap at the back of the coil cover when a Neo is dropped into another car. If you do not have it, the ECU will shit the bed. So, do you have one?
    • So sadly the fuel pump etc was not it. The pump and filter is new and it is still cutting around 4000 rpm. A read something about ABS/TCS (engine is from stagea and ECU too so no TCS) and i dont know for 100% that my car has ABS. It has ABS "cube" in engine bay but i dont think it works(or at least from my braking experience). Can be something like that?  I will be driving the car next week to Nistune tuner to properly see what is wrong...  
×
×
  • Create New...