Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey ..... i put my boost controller in today and wound the boost up to 14psi or there about

the problem is not that is misfiring on full boost then when i bring it off boost then back on it comes on then starts misforing again

is this a coil issue or is this the factory boost cut ??

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/299243-misfiring-on-full-boost/
Share on other sites

Std spark plug gap too big for higher boost. Pull the plugs out and gap them down to about 0.8mm

The spark gets blown out at higher boost hence the reason why its breaking down under full load. The spark jumps every were at the end of the plug causing it to not fire correctly. Do this and you will be ok.

You will probably get away with just regapping your plugs to 0.8 but none the less your coils are probably dying so boosting it higher later on will bring back the missfire and also on cold weather it might still miss spitfires and plugs gapped at 0.8 ftw

it's not a misfire. if youre running standard ecu, 14 psi is too high and you are hitting fuel cut. lower the boost to about 11-11.5 and you'll be perfect. don't boot it too much either as you'll damage your rings while it does that.

R&R ??

Rich and Retard. There sould be a thread somewhere here explaining fully what it is.. but yeh as explained above, its pretty much when the ecu senses too much boost coming through and cuts fuel supply to try to save the engine, causes the car to run absolute sh&t..but yeh just turn your boost back down and dont go past 12psi unless u got an aftermarket ecu or get yours remapped

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Mi...500-t32356.html

^ that might help out aswell..

had the same problem, boost too high, turned it down, still slightly missfires on full boost but my coilpacks are just about shot... i taped/siliconed them up which helps but doesnt totally get rid of the missfire.. just waiting to get some more cash for splitfires..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Did and sync timing with light 
    • Have you done the Ignition Sync Wizard in the AEM software?
    • Find out what RPM it was idling at with the IACV unplugged. It's very weird that the rpm didn't change at all, and then it stalled. When it stalls is it nearly like a switch off, like you've turned the engine off? Or is it more stutters and sputters and coughs to death over a few seconds? Or does the RPM just slowly keep going down and down? Have you done a test of trying to start it with the AFM unplugged? Does it still die?     If you Follow Josh's advice on using Nistune to check the voltages (which is a perfect method!) if you see anything out of wack voltage wise, THEN get the multimeter out and read the voltage directly at the sensor. If the two vary, then you're now looking for a wiring issue vs a sensor issue. So be aware, what the ECU sees, may not be what the sensor is actually saying too...
    • You very likely need to get it on a dyno and tune it. My assumption is, you've got an RB25DET tune in it, which has a different manifold, different injectors, and different cams as a minimum. What O2 sensor are you running?   When you say it runs extremely rich from idle all the way to redline, is this just free revving it you see that?
    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
×
×
  • Create New...