Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

about 30-40 bucks delivered from justjap (forum trader) i got the same problem with mine, rang up a few mobile mechs and a few workshops and they wanted to charge me anywhere from 80-110 just for the bearing, then labour to swap it over

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/299389-r33-clutch/#findComment-4981677
Share on other sites

about 30-40 bucks delivered from justjap (forum trader) i got the same problem with mine, rang up a few mobile mechs and a few workshops and they wanted to charge me anywhere from 80-110 just for the bearing, then labour to swap it over

I'm having similar problem.. but i'm lil confused if it's same problem as mine, engaging the clutch meanning foot off the pedal right?

how much was it for the labour? is it something that whole transmission has to come off?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/299389-r33-clutch/#findComment-4984523
Share on other sites

I'm having similar problem.. but i'm lil confused if it's same problem as mine, engaging the clutch meanning foot off the pedal right?

how much was it for the labour? is it something that whole transmission has to come off?

pedal pushed in - noise starts, pedal out - noise stops

$300 i got quoted ($900 from another mob who ummm and ahhh'd and basically werent too keen to do it) so pays to shop around)- yes the transmission has to come off to swap it over

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/299389-r33-clutch/#findComment-4985806
Share on other sites

Unfortunately what has happened is your throwout/thrust bearing has become worn, Although not recommended you can still drive the car as per normal without too much of a worry. It is usually best to save up and buy a whole clutch kit, which includes a new throwout bearing, and do the whole lot at once, as it is not feasable to pay $300-500 in labour to remove a gearbox to replace a $25 part. (and have your clutch start to wear 6months later..)

If you need a hand in anything else, shoot me an pm, I sell clutches for a living and happy to answer any questions you may have!

Goodluck! And welcome to the world of Skylines!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/299389-r33-clutch/#findComment-4986106
Share on other sites

Yes it only happens when you engage the clutch once you release it it is gone how much does the thrust bearings normally cost to replace ?

Labour is the expensive part...about $250-300 to pull the gearbox out.

I'd only bother if it has been getting louder. i've had a similar noise since 30,xxxkm (when I bought the car), I now have 103,xxxkm on it and the noise isn't any louder.

Generally speaking the problem is fine until it starts making unbearable noises but beware that a worn thrust bearing can start scorching the input shaft sleeve which is not a desirable outcome!

I'm having similar problem.. but i'm lil confused if it's same problem as mine, engaging the clutch meanning foot off the pedal right?

how much was it for the labour? is it something that whole transmission has to come off?

Engaging the clutch usually means pushing the pedal in. If you have noise when you take your foot off the pedal it is most likely a gearbox bearing issue.

:thumbsup: Same situation --in reverse , mine makes a noise when not engaged--R34GTT.

Gearbox bearings :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/299389-r33-clutch/#findComment-4986195
Share on other sites

:D Same situation --in reverse , mine makes a noise when not engaged--R34GTT.

Gearbox bearings :D

:) Nah, thrust bearing according to a couple of workshops I've dropped in to, pull not push clutch or is it push not pull ? whatever, it's the opposite off the earlier models.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/299389-r33-clutch/#findComment-4986599
Share on other sites

Engaging the clutch usually means pushing the pedal in.

I completely disagree. I would say the opposite - when a clutch is engaged then it is squeezed against the flywheel. whatever fancy footwork you are doing is irrelevant, as you get electronically actuated clutches as well eg A/C compressor. A/C compressor clutch engaged = A/C running. disengaged = freewheeling.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/299389-r33-clutch/#findComment-4987211
Share on other sites

Like the others have said unless it really is loud and getting worse then wait until you do a full clutch change I bought my car and it had the noise and 50000 kms on still hasnt got worse so ill be changing it soon with the clutch

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/299389-r33-clutch/#findComment-4988671
Share on other sites

I posted the same question a month or so ago. Same answer, but for some weird reason the sound has pretty much stopped. Only happens 1 out of 100 drives and only usually if the car is cold. When i posted originally it was doing it all the time, every drive. So i have no clue how i fixed it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/299389-r33-clutch/#findComment-4988932
Share on other sites

:cool: Nah, thrust bearing according to a couple of workshops I've dropped in to, pull not push clutch or is it push not pull ? whatever, it's the opposite off the earlier models.

If you are taking your foot off your clutch pedal and then it starts to make the noise...it's most likely going to be a gearbox bearing issue. Thrust bearing is only actively spinning when you push the clutch pedal with your foot.

I completely disagree. I would say the opposite - when a clutch is engaged then it is squeezed against the flywheel. whatever fancy footwork you are doing is irrelevant, as you get electronically actuated clutches as well eg A/C compressor. A/C compressor clutch engaged = A/C running. disengaged = freewheeling.

Given that the gearbox clutch is a mechanism for disconnecting two moving parts from one another, it is quite fair to say that a clutch is engaged when you push the pedal with your foot because it refers to operation of the component and change from its static position. It is also correct to say that you are engaging the clutch on the A/C compressor when it connects the two moving parts because it serves the opposite purpose to the gearbox clutch, being that the static position is two moving parts disconnected.

Better use of the term would be "engaging/disengaging the drivetrain" using the clutch.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/299389-r33-clutch/#findComment-4989131
Share on other sites

If you are taking your foot off your clutch pedal and then it starts to make the noise...it's most likely going to be a gearbox bearing issue. Thrust bearing is only actively spinning when you push the clutch pedal with your foot.

The amount of pressure required to stop it making this noise would not alter any gearbox bearing noise as it's not sufficient to engage the clutch only the thrust bearing , these cars ar notorious for this nuisancesome rattle , I have even come across advertising blurb from one clutch manufacturer promoting a clutch which has been specificly engineered to address this problem (at quite a cost from memory) I have also come across this before, lastly in a WRX I had which has the same type pull clutch setup and it was the thrust bearing.

Having said all that I have always changed the clutch totaly in cars I have had previously which did this so maybe I've been missunderstanding and the noise has been emanating from the clutch asembly, in any event it's never been a gearbox bearing issue, for me at least.

:cool:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/299389-r33-clutch/#findComment-4989339
Share on other sites

If you're just talking about the rollover sound that is common to our Skylines, particularly with aftermarket clutches, then it's nothing to worry about. This one also isn't a particularly loud noise, just a nuisance as you say :cool:

Are you certain you have a pull type clutch? I thought all bar were push bar some of the earlier GTR boxes.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/299389-r33-clutch/#findComment-4989429
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GCG is a good company, they're a major distributor for Garrett in Japan as well.
    • Nah, OEM washer bottle and brake fluid reservoirs are fine I don't know what it is with the plastic that Mazda used, some plastics, like the washer bottle and brake fluid res are fine, and still look new after 20 years use, where as the coolant expansion tank, and PS reservoir, that I replaced with new OEM items when I first got the car, turned yellow and started getting brittle a few years later If the dirty yellow stained plastics didn't trigger me there wouldn't be an issue, but they did, much like the battery bracket....... Meh As for going back to work full time to support car stuff, nope, why, because I own a Mazda NC MX5, not a Nissan R series Skyline 🤣
    • I've never heard of CJ-motor, so can't advise you on them. I'd just go straight to GCG for a GCG highflow though. Seems no point to use a middleman. I'm somewhat surprised that the price on the CJ site is lower than the GCG retail price. Even though CJ would get a discount of some sort, you would hardly expect them to give up so much margin. Maybe the price is out of date? Having said that "I'd go to GCG"...when I did my highflow, I went to Hypergear. I did this https://hypergearturbos.com/product/rb25dethighflow/#tab-dyno-results with the R34 OP6 450HP profile. With the BB centre (extra $400) and intially with the standard boost actuator, but I eventually got him to send me the high pressure one when I got to the point of being able to actually use it. Ends up costing the same sort of money as the GCG highflow, but this is, of course, the turbo that I KNOW has a shorter length core and so moves the comp cover rearwards. The GCG apparently doesn't do that. My mechanic also swears by the GCG highflow, given that we have another turbo rebuilder who does something essentialy the same as theirs, using Garrett wheels. He says it stands up at really low revs and makes good power. I haven't pushed my HG highflow past ~240-250rwkW yet (should have a little more in it, but unclear how much) and it does have a fairly gentle boost ramp. OK, it's much better now that I have gotten my boost controller tuned up on it.  A lot of my earlier unhappiness was because I couldn't keep the wastegate flap as closed as it needed to be (including some mechanical issues). I'd still prefer it to boost up nearly as quickly as the stocker, and it certainly a bit slower than that. So maybe the GCG one is worth the first look (for you).
    • Ok thanks 🙂 I will higly consider this. Any "known" company for a good reviews and experience to send that off? Is that CJ-motor good one? Or go straight to GCG site? I need to use VPN to even find some of those "shops" let alone access them 🙂 
    • You can literally put in as much WMI as it takes to quench the combustion totally (and then back it off a little, obviously), and it will keep making more and more power. The power comes from the cooling effect of the water (and the meth) and the extra fuel (the meth, which also has massive octane). It is effectively exactly like running E85. One might be slightly better than the other, but they are damn close. But with either you can lean on the boost or the timing (or both) waaaay more than with just petrol and the results are similar. Here's the first thing I googled for an anecdotal bit of evidence. Can't access the attachment without being a gold member, but it is there for the getting if able to, or searched up elsewise perhaps. https://www.hpacademy.com/forum/general-tuning-discussion/show/wmi-vs-e85/
×
×
  • Create New...