Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi people!

Decided im gonna get some rims maybe next year.

Need help in deciding which ones

Anyways here some dodgy photoshops haha:

Option 1: Rays Progressiv ME replica's

volksprogressivme.jpg

Option 2: Rays TE37 Replicas with red lip

volkste37.jpg

Option 3: Rays TE37 Replicas ( ALL MATT BLACK WITH NISMO DECAL)

volkste37blacknismo.jpg

Option 4: R34 GTR rims powercoated Matt black with nissan logo caps

Dont have a picture for this.

Edited by Aznbongsta
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/299973-what-rims-suits-my-car/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 42
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I reckon the Rays te37 with the red lip (2nd pic)

I agree, cant go wrong with te37s.

My favorite are jdm drift spec rims, Super advans 17's with a offset no more then +20 by 10s

People will think your car is a track car, plus they are hot.

What ever you go with, remember offsets is what makes the rims look hot.

mate its your car pick what you want dont post every possible wheel here as its unlikely you will get a 100% approval.

work out the overall style you want from your car and then what is important to you in the wheel is it looks or light weight performance focus?

if you havent tried hit up

j-imports.com

importmonster.com.au

and the for sale forums here and ns.com lots and lots of rims up for grabs..

I agree, cant go wrong with te37s.

My favorite are jdm drift spec rims, Super advans 17's with a offset no more then +20 by 10s

People will think your car is a track car, plus they are hot.

What ever you go with, remember offsets is what makes the rims look hot.

Im a newbie at offsets, been reading guides etc but still clueless :P

i want the centre of the rim to go inwards but dont know what offset that is.

I have stock suspension , i was wondering what offset can i fit up to without any mods?

My current stockies are 17" 40 offset.

I want 18" as my new sets.

Sorry for being a newbie, dont want to be flamed at :cool:

you need to get yourself into the offset thread.

in shot it will fit easily im pretty sure r34 guards are quite generous you can get away with a 18x10 +20 or so without much effort at all perhaps a roll.

what you have posted above would be seen as a bit conservative but depends how agressive you want to be.

for example my r33 is running 18x9.5 +15 front (20mm wider front guards) sits flush and a 18x10 +20 rear

but other things count as well such as stretching tyres etc.

are you talking about concave rims? or deep dish rims there is a difference.

this is deep dish

PC270008600x450.jpg

this is concave (spokes going back in)

P11000022448x18361836x1377.jpg

Rears will fit fine, don't know for sure but I think 9.5 +38 on the front will sit outside the guards

Thanks for the help mate! one last size questions! I PROMISE :rant:

What about this?

18x8.5 +32

18x9.5 +12

Since the front are less wider, i guess it wont sit outside the front guard

but what about the offsets? will both Offsets clear my calipers?

The wheels im looking at are Work Emotions CR Kai's and the wheels are brand new, therefore dont think i will be able to trail fit it before i buy it.

Plus i want to find out before rather than just taking the sellers word for it.

Cheers mate.

Thanks for the help mate! one last size questions! I PROMISE :rant:

What about this?

18x8.5 +32

18x9.5 +12

Since the front are less wider, i guess it wont sit outside the front guard

but what about the offsets? will both Offsets clear my calipers?

The wheels im looking at are Work Emotions CR Kai's and the wheels are brand new, therefore dont think i will be able to trail fit it before i buy it.

Plus i want to find out before rather than just taking the sellers word for it.

Cheers mate.

9.5 +12 will need a rolled guard with stretched tyres. either that or it will just poke out and fender will need a flare.. its a kinda hardcore offset, more suited to a GTR.

the sizing im going to get with new wheels is as follows if its any help.

18x8.5 +30

18x9.5 +35 or +30 for staggered look, depending on what type of wheels i get.

You should be able to trial fit them if u take the car there.. just dont tigthen the wheel nuts so they dont get scratched.. jack it up remove your wheel and slide the new one on and check for guard clearance..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Did and sync timing with light 
    • Have you done the Ignition Sync Wizard in the AEM software?
    • Find out what RPM it was idling at with the IACV unplugged. It's very weird that the rpm didn't change at all, and then it stalled. When it stalls is it nearly like a switch off, like you've turned the engine off? Or is it more stutters and sputters and coughs to death over a few seconds? Or does the RPM just slowly keep going down and down? Have you done a test of trying to start it with the AFM unplugged? Does it still die?     If you Follow Josh's advice on using Nistune to check the voltages (which is a perfect method!) if you see anything out of wack voltage wise, THEN get the multimeter out and read the voltage directly at the sensor. If the two vary, then you're now looking for a wiring issue vs a sensor issue. So be aware, what the ECU sees, may not be what the sensor is actually saying too...
    • You very likely need to get it on a dyno and tune it. My assumption is, you've got an RB25DET tune in it, which has a different manifold, different injectors, and different cams as a minimum. What O2 sensor are you running?   When you say it runs extremely rich from idle all the way to redline, is this just free revving it you see that?
    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
×
×
  • Create New...