Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Okay stole the pic shamelessly from atomik bomber man's build thread

If I am asking in the wrong section sorry

Have now tried three times to install the part pictured below that takes the water feed from the engine side of the thermostat

post-33041-1260692073_thumb.jpg

Brand new fitting from Nissan froze it in the freezer for a day or two

coated in hylomar then installed

checked it the next day still able to turn it with light pressure, DAMN!!!

found I could pull it out by hand now???????????????

Figured hylomar wasnt the right stuff as it doesnt actually dry

So tried Ultra Blue RTV no Good either

black sealant adhesive same same

My main question I see in the pic and thread Daz and ABM have used threebond the Nissan stuff

is this Anerobic ie. will it dry without oxygen present is this why my fitting wont seem to seal???

On another note tried Locktite "Freeze and Release" spray on the old fitting still stuck in my old block

froze up almost instantly and was able to pull it out by hand with little or no effort

May try that old fitting next

sorry for the long post but this f**ker is doing my head in for real

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/300004-rb26-water-pipe-elbow-help-please/
Share on other sites

any chance that part differs between engine? could nissan have incorrectly supplied you one from rb20/25/30?

that part should definitely be a tight fit, even without goo

Edited by kristafa
  • 4 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...

I wouldnt rely on locktite to hold that fitting in by itself.

Clearly it should be an interference fit into the block.

The continuous expanding and contracting of the block and fitting will eventually weaken the locktite and pop goes your fitting.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok i will get those 310mm. I found one but on a different site. This is the description on those...is it ok? Technical parameters: - Axle: front. - Disc type: ventilated. - Number of holes: 5. - Disc diameter: 310mm. - Total height with center: 54mm. - Thickness (new/min.): 30/28mm. - Designed for brake calipers manufacturer: Sumitomo.
    • You Gregged a whole racetrack!?
    • Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
×
×
  • Create New...