Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi fellas,

As the thread title suggests, I am just sick and tired of being defected by the cops all the time. As we all know, each time it is such a time waster and is so costly. Furthermore, I drive safely and considerately on the roads and don't hoon or anything but cops always chase me and give me grief and even once said that my car is a "cop magnet."

Anyway, long story short - I've recently bought a R33 GTR Vspec and want to keep this car as stealthy as possible, I've taken of all the badges including the GTR ones and removed all stickers...however, the next step is to make the car defect-free...how the heck do I do this? I've heard about getting the car engineered and be given an engineer's certificate...I have no idea what this is or where I can get this done in Melbourne - can you guys please shed some light on the matter.

I'd really appreciate referrals with contact details and estimated costings; all I can think that the GTR has that might be defectable are boost controller, Apexi Power FC, Twin Pod filters and a Blow off valve. Please give me some support here fellas, it's driving me insane and I find myself scared shitless sometimes when I'm driving around and a cop follows me...please share your experiences.

Many thanks,

Kevin

  • Replies 80
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

of course if you break the law then that's going to happen

if you want to avoid defects then keep it stock

or do minimal mods that can be changed back to stock with no fuss and little cost

Well, you've taken the right step to start off with. Taken all the badges off.

You don't need an engineers unless you are doing something major.

Boost controller = Defectable

Apexi Power FC = defectable

Twin Pod Filters = Defectable (mainly due to ignorant cops)

BOV = defectable only if it is venting to atmosphere.

SO:

Hide your boost controller in the cabin somewhere that is not easy to see. Then make sure the solenoid is buried somewhere in the engine bay, or painted black. Just make sure you can't see it.

The Apexi is fairly easy to hide, but just make sure you cover it up. The police have no reason to suspect you have aftermarket ECU if everything under the bonnet looks stock.

Twin Pod Filters scream "modified". best thing you can do is fold up some plastic sheet, or sheet metal painted black to look like a factory air box and put this over. If you are going to go the trouble, you might as well make a cold air box. (better performance in street traffic too.)

Plumb back the BOV

DONE!

Hi fellas,

As the thread title suggests, I am just sick and tired of being defected by the cops all the time. As we all know, each time it is such a time waster and is so costly. Furthermore, I drive safely and considerately on the roads and don't hoon or anything but cops always chase me and give me grief and even once said that my car is a "cop magnet."

Anyway, long story short - I've recently bought a R33 GTR Vspec and want to keep this car as stealthy as possible, I've taken of all the badges including the GTR ones and removed all stickers...however, the next step is to make the car defect-free...how the heck do I do this? I've heard about getting the car engineered and be given an engineer's certificate...I have no idea what this is or where I can get this done in Melbourne - can you guys please shed some light on the matter.

I'd really appreciate referrals with contact details and estimated costings; all I can think that the GTR has that might be defectable are boost controller, Apexi Power FC, Twin Pod filters and a Blow off valve. Please give me some support here fellas, it's driving me insane and I find myself scared shitless sometimes when I'm driving around and a cop follows me...please share your experiences.

Many thanks,

Kevin

You've gotta be joking?

Your other thread is 3 pages long, and in that i told you about 4 times how to go about it.

It is simply not worth trying to get the ADR Emissions done, therefore things like a PFC are still defectable - but given it is a 2min job to change... i dont see a problen.

I gotta say West, although generally I get left alone, I feel like I've been stalked/pulled over for nothing, and I am clean as a whistle in terms of police/driving records. Maybe I am just paranoid.

Agree 100% though, after market BOV is a real give-away and totally unnecessary in most cases.

Thanks fellas...I used to be a bit of a "ricer" to be honest, e.g. stickers, big wrings, decal stuff like that...now, I'm sick of it and love the clean and stealthy look...I've made my car look stock as a rock besides some nice Volk rims and a carbon fiber bonnet, the car looks stock as a freaken rock.

I think the trick is to hide, tuck away and make the car look as stock as possible. Besides that, there's no other way, right? I've learnt a few things...thanks all! Any other suggestions?

It's the BOV, PODS and Power FC that I always get done for usually...now with the BOV, I love the Ssshhttt sound of the atmospheric blowoff valve sound...just can't go back to stock...cannot, cannot....please God, please forgive me as I have sinned....with the PODS, I must have it too as I love the fluttering and sucking sound...and the Power FC - I need it for engine management, I even went as far as trying to hide my hand controller under my seat once but the guys in blue know where to search nowadays - any suggestions?

Well, you've taken the right step to start off with. Taken all the badges off.

You don't need an engineers unless you are doing something major.

Boost controller = Defectable

Apexi Power FC = defectable

Twin Pod Filters = Defectable (mainly due to ignorant cops)

BOV = defectable only if it is venting to atmosphere.

SO:

Hide your boost controller in the cabin somewhere that is not easy to see. Then make sure the solenoid is buried somewhere in the engine bay, or painted black. Just make sure you can't see it.

The Apexi is fairly easy to hide, but just make sure you cover it up. The police have no reason to suspect you have aftermarket ECU if everything under the bonnet looks stock.

Twin Pod Filters scream "modified". best thing you can do is fold up some plastic sheet, or sheet metal painted black to look like a factory air box and put this over. If you are going to go the trouble, you might as well make a cold air box. (better performance in street traffic too.)

Plumb back the BOV

DONE!

Thanks mate...your words have given me inspiration as I'm so close to giving up as I'm going paranoid...seriously, I love the GTR but it's getting a bit much and I find myself feeling paranoid on the streets... :)

I will spend some time in research how to hide the fuucckasss...

You've gotta be joking?

Your other thread is 3 pages long, and in that i told you about 4 times how to go about it.

It is simply not worth trying to get the ADR Emissions done, therefore things like a PFC are still defectable - but given it is a 2min job to change... i dont see a problen.

Hi Ash, yeah, I'm going a bit paranoid here - please forgive me. The other thread was more about how the heck do I clear the defect and how to extend the expiry date on the notice, whereas this thread is how to freak do I avoid any another of those yellow fuucckaass as along the years, I've had 4 yellow fairy canaries and 2 EPA emissions tests...seriously...for the love of God. :)

Factory GTR BOV's have a noise that only GTR BOV's produce... i cannot see how you need an ATMO, they do not have the teeter-totter of GTR items which is utterly unique.

And you do not need the H/C in the car. The check engine light lets you know if anyhing is going wrong, that is the whole purpose of it.

So have PODS, no problem. Factory I/C & BOV's, remove the H/C and honestly you will only get EPA's if you have a loud exhaust.

Also get rid of that HYBRID CF bonnet. It's a fibreglass hybrid, not pure CF, and just another attention attractor.

Also given you have had heaps of defects i think you would almost HAVE to be attracting attention by how you must be driving.

Hi Ash, yeah, I'm going a bit paranoid here - please forgive me. The other thread was more about how the heck do I clear the defect and how to extend the expiry date on the notice, whereas this thread is how to freak do I avoid any another of those yellow fuucckaass as along the years, I've had 4 yellow fairy canaries and 2 EPA emissions tests...seriously...for the love of God. :)

I've had more EPA's, less defects though - but that is because all my mods are hidden.

EPA was just for my old exhaust which was 110dB lol.

These days though its much much quieter so i expect less attention overall. Even on SAU cruises you cannot hear my car anymore :)

You can make 380rwkw mate without even an obvious mod - im not going into anymore detail though over the net.

LOL!

Why do you need BOV when standard gtr bov is as good? Cops don't follow you for no reason unless you've got a bad record on their system.

Just leave it standard....or with a pair of N1's, they can't tell.

i dont have a bad record and cops follow me when i take my skyline out they do u turns to come and pull me over and all :)

i dont think he was meaning they wait outside his house for him to go out and stalk him..

if you bought an import, you should've known that imports attract cops

you cant complain about being pulled over, especial if u have a CF bonnet and drive around with an atmo BOV,

its like saying, my car is stealthy, while painting it in a fluro color :)

Do you have fully sick cheap Chrome wheels? Stickers, HID, Loud Exhaust, Standout colour, gauges on the A-pillar, Bride Seat that you don't even do track work....................car that sit too low because you have a fully sick set of coil-over...................!

^^^

they can't claim you were hooning if you weren't

they need to witness hooning or have evidence to prove it

if they pull you over just going about ur business not doing anything wrong, and say you were hooning

that will never even make it to court

I've made my car look stock as a rock besides some nice Volk rims and a carbon fiber bonnet, the car looks stock as a freaken rock.

I like that part. Hardly stock looks wise.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Look, realistically, those are some fairly chunky connectors and wires so it is a reasonably fair bet that that loom was involved in the redirection of the fuel pump and/or ECU/ignition power for the immobiliser. It's also fair to be that the new immobiliser is essentially the same thing as the old one, and so it probably needs the same stuff done to make it do what it has to do. Given that you are talking about a car that no-one else here is familiar with (I mean your exact car) and an alarm that I've never heard of before and so probably not many others are familiar with, and that some wire monkey has been messing with it out of our sight, it seems reasonable that the wire monkey should be fixing this.
    • Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
×
×
  • Create New...