Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

so, firstly, i know this in the local section. secondly, i have already searched, alot.

anyway, having some troubles with my car. basically, driving along, engine cuts out. has happened four times, twice i had to push start the car, once it started fine and the other it would do either until about 20 mins later when i tryed and it worked.

3 times the engine completely cut out - no revs or anything etc etc when the engine turns off. another time it felt like the engine cut, got no reponse from the accelerator or steering but the revs were still up. they eventually dropped down and stalled, but i thought id was a bit weird driving along with the engine going but no response.

so basically i have a few ideas, but no real idea. from what ive read could be aac valve, bov, and i reckon it could maybe have something to do with fuel?

any other ideas?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/300201-car-issues-no-idea/
Share on other sites

have you looked at the AFM and do you have an immobiliser installed i had one that broke and had the same symptoms as you are having i had it removed and then replaced with a new one works great could also be your ECU or Alternator

if the car is actually running fine while its working its more than likely an electrical problem. if its got an immobiliser than you should have it removed and buy a new one as its probably cutting in whenever it feels like it...

Although intermittent Gus take it to the Pro's. Yes it will cost unfortunately.

Were all guessing and it could be many electrical things. (dicky ignitor perhaps?)

It's too scary to be going fast around a mountain corner when the engine cuts out. No power stearing and near nothing in the brake department. If your not right on the ball a heck of an accident waiting to happen.

Cheers

S!N

Another vote for immobilizer here.

Another thing, is there a chance that maybe the plug on your ignitor box at the back of your coil packs is loose?

Does the car die completely or is anything still running (i.e. fuel pump)?

1 vote for CAS.

Give me a buzz if you want to test it out. I should have a spare CAS you can test out but I want a retainer because someone else on here didn't end up returning my ignition module.

Beside that, I have a few other spares that you can test as well.

happens when im slowing down coming up to a corner

I'd agree with Sin. Go to a mechanic, that 5h1t could get you in a serious mess if it happens at an unlucky time. Extra to previous suggestions, I'd get the Throttle Position Sensor checked. Mine used to stall when I was rolling up to intersections or travelling through slow traffic at low revs. It behaved fine for the mechanic until he gave it a whack with a (I assume padded) mallet, then it went haywire/stalled the car etc. Hard to find, relatively cheap to fix.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ye good idea , would have never thought of something like that. Might aswell do it to every pulley and the balancer while I’m there 
    • Use an LS1 or similar, via kit like Frenchy's. But.... It's probably not the alternator. It sounds like belt squeal, which would be because the pulleys are glazed. Rub every groove on the pulleys with 120 grit paper. Report back. Oh, and new belts afterwards too. The old new ones will be shitted up already.
    • Hello all I have 2 r34 sedans , one turbo one na, only recently aquired the na 34.  Man what is with these things.... My turbo 34 started sounding like a super charger, it was screaming at anything above 4000rpm , I took the alternator apart and replaced the front bearing which is the only one I think you can access and it did not fix the issue so presumably the bearing in the rear of the alternator is gone. ( diagnosed it was the alternator by taking off the aux belts one by one to figure out which pulley or bearing it was )  My friend gave me one he had lying around, Installed it , it did not squeal for maybe 500kms and now its started to squeal again briefly on startup  Recently got an na r34 and I replaced the timing belt, water pump + all the auxillirary belts. Runs amazing but it suddenly developed the same squeaking problem but significantly worse, Ive had my neighbour come down screaming at me because it was waking her up everytime I moved the car. It takes a good 2 minutes before it quietens down.  Im yet to diagnose where its coming from but im fairly sure its coming from the alternator aswell. My question isnt about how to fix it but rather where can you get a new alternator for an rb25 neo??? Ive searched everywhere but I havent been able to find a direct fit oem type replacement thats not genuine. All the automotive stores sell an oex one - BXA035 - which I picked up for cheap through a friend with staff discount , got it home only to find the connector is completelty different.... As far as im aware bxa035 is for rb20/30's and after a bit of figuring out the bxa035 has an ev14 type connector, which is tiny compared to the rb25 connector. I actually had an ev14 connector lying around which I was considering just replacing the bigger plug with to get the alternator working but the bxa035 is rated for 70amp vs the rb25 alternators are 90amp ( or so ive been told ? ) That paired along with the fact im about to install an amp + sub in the back and I have the stock sized small battery Im not sure itll do the job unless anyone has another opinion?  I know and have seen all the websites selling the ls1 alternator conversion kit but I am not going down that route, nor do I have the money to. Hopefully I can figure out how to get 2 brand new alternators for both cars. I would buy second hand which there seems to be many of but considering how common this seems to be im sure If I installed a second hand one it would start squealing in no time  Or even better if anyone knows how to fix the issue directly with the alternator itself... Any input appreciated Thank you     Link for bxa035 connector picture
    • As above, replace as many as you can afford. If anything, due to old age.
    • Can confirm previous shop that built my motor had no fking clue about oil control and caused my motor to shit itself after two track days. Current shop, Birrong Automotive, has managed to build me a motor, not to mention, has also let me tune it myself and it has yet to blow up after 7 track days. Great oiling success, yashimash.
×
×
  • Create New...