Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 3.6k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

wet night race... holy shit that wil be fun!!

oh massa, i wait with bated breath

Actually this could be bad ... There was a wet night race in motogp early this year, they had to call it off because the glare of the lights on the wet track was blinding. I don't know if the race can go ahead if it's wet

Accom is expensive in Singapore at the best of times. Its even worse on GP Week. I handed the keys back to my apartment a few months ago as it was costing me too much money, but still have friends who i can stay with. But really, you are better of just going on a bender and then sleeping at the track during the day in your grandstand seat :P Dont need accomm then :D

RBR cars seem to have shrugged off the new scrutineering tests and look quick in practice.

A bit embarrassing at McLaren if they can't match the pace of Ferrari and Redbull after talking up the unfair advantage those cars had.

It's a good thing RBR aren't "cheating" any more - think of how much they'd be flogging them by if they were ...

webber's not so crash hot either if you take into account his career in general rather than the last handful of races when he's been on form. it's pretty easy to win if your car is much faster than everyone else's and you stick it on pole. that's how massa wins races too.

I cant believe how you are all so quick to praise Vettel and write off Webber. Have we not seen enough seasons the past 15 years to realise that its 80% car and 20% driver. Finally Webber has a good car and he is doing the job. He has shown plenty of pace in the past in shit cars. Look at Button last year. Button is no better then Webber. But give him a car advantage far above what Webber has had this year for the first half of the season and everyone is quoting the fact that he is WDC.

Vettel has not really show much superior pace over Webber this year. He sure as shit has not shown superior race craft. He is quick, and probably has the talen to win 3-4 of the last 5 rounds...but Webber has shown he is driving as good as he has been the past 3-4 years, but with pace in the car, isnt so desperate with some of his dives and race moves.

COME ON WEBBER! There is a reason why he is leading the WDC and it isnt luck. Just like in years past when Button, Hamo, Hill, Schuey etc all had a car advantage... the car wins the WDC more then the driver!

Last year MW drove with a gammy leg.

This year despite some questionable strategy by RBR he is leading the WDC.

SV is a quick driver especially over one lap (hmm sounds like MW in the old days in a shitty car) but he is hardly towelling MW down this year or last. So it beats me why anyone thinks he is a better driver. I stand and point to the scoreboard this year and it says otherwise.

I disagree with Roy it is more like 90% car, 10% driver as LH proved last year by being everyone else's bitch.

Last year MW drove with a gammy leg.

This year despite some questionable strategy by RBR he is leading the WDC.

SV is a quick driver especially over one lap (hmm sounds like MW in the old days in a shitty car) but he is hardly towelling MW down this year or last. So it beats me why anyone thinks he is a better driver. I stand and point to the scoreboard this year and it says otherwise.

I disagree with Roy it is more like 90% car, 10% driver as LH proved last year by being everyone else's bitch.

Ditto. Mark has proven time and again that what he lacks in talent (if he does in fact lack talent, which I doubt), he makes up for in grit and determination, as well as keeping a cool head. I agree with what was said earlier, webber has never had the car to get decent results before. Very few drivers could have done better in the Williams and the Jaguar.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm looking for some real world experiences/feed back from anyone who has personally ran a EFR7670 with a 1.05 exhaust housing or a .83 I'm leaning towards the .83 because its a street car used mostly for spirited driving in the canyons roads. I"m not looking for big numbers on paper. I want a responsive powerband that will be very linear to 8000 rpm. I dont mind if power remains somewhat flat but dont want power to drop off on top. The turbo I've purchased is a 1.05, although the mounting flange T3 vs T4 and internal vs external waste gates are different on both housings, I not concern about swapping parts or making fabrication mods to get what I want. Based on some of the research I've done with chat gpt, the 1.05 housing seems to be the way to go with slightly more lag and future proofing for more mods but recommends .83 for best response/street car setup. AI doesn't have the same emotions as real people driving a GTR so I think you guys will be able to give me better feed back 😀   
    • Surely somebody has one in VIC. Have you asked at any shops?  Is this the yearly inspection or did you get a canary?
    • This is where I share pain with you, @Duncan. The move to change so many cooling system pieces to plastic is a killer! Plastic end tanks and a few plastic hose flanges on my car's fail after so little time.  Curious about the need for a bigger rad, is that just for long sessions in the summer or because the car generally needs more cooling?
    • So, that is it! It is a pretty expensive process with the ATF costing 50-100 per 5 litres, and a mechanic will probably charge plenty because they don't want to do it. Still, considering how dirty my fluid was at 120,000klm I think it would be worth doing more like every 80,000 to keep the trans happy, they are very expensive to replace. The job is not that hard if you have the specialist tools so you can save a bit of money and do it yourself!
    • OK, onto filling. So I don't really have any pics, but will describe the process as best I can. The USDM workshop manual also covers it from TM-285 onwards. First, make sure the drain plug (17mm) is snug. Not too tight yet because it is coming off again. Note it does have a copper washer that you could replace or anneal (heat up with a blow torch) to seal nicely. Remove the fill plug, which has an inhex (I think it was 6mm but didn't check). Then, screw in the fill fitting, making sure it has a suitable o-ring (mine came without but I think it is meant to be supplied). It is important that you only screw it in hand tight. I didn't get a good pic of it, but the fill plug leads to a tube about 70mm long inside the transmission. This sets the factory level for fluid in the trans (above the join line for the pan!) and will take about 3l to fill. You then need to connect your fluid pump to the fitting via a hose, and pump in whatever amount of fluid you removed (maybe 3 litres, in my case 7 litres). If you put in more than 3l, it will spill out when you remove the fitting, so do quickly and with a drain pan underneath. Once you have pumped in the required amount of clean ATF, you start the engine and run it for 3 minutes to let the fluid circulate. Don't run it longer and if possible check the fluid temp is under 40oC (Ecutek shows Auto Trans Fluid temp now, or you could use an infrared temp gun on the bottom of the pan). The manual stresses the bit about fluid temperature because it expands when hot an might result in an underfil. So from here, the factory manual says to do the "spill and fill" again, and I did. That is, put an oil pan under the drain plug and undo it with a 17mm spanner, then watch your expensive fluid fall back out again, you should get about 3 litres.  Then, put the drain plug back in, pump 3 litres back in through the fill plug with the fitting and pump, disconnect the fill fitting and replace the fill plug, start the car and run for another 3 minutes (making sure the temp is still under 40oC). The manual then asks for a 3rd "spill and fill" just like above. I also did that and so had put 13l in by now.  This time they want you to keep the engine running and run the transmission through R and D (I hope the wheels are still off the ground!) for a while, and allow the trans temp to get to 40oC, then engine off. Finally, back under the car and undo the fill plug to let the overfill drain out; it will stop running when fluid is at the top of the levelling tube. According to the factory, that is job done! Post that, I reconnected the fill fitting and pumped in an extra 0.5l. AMS says 1.5l overfill is safe, but I started with less to see how it goes, I will add another 1.0 litres later if I'm still not happy with the hot shifts.
×
×
  • Create New...