Jump to content
SAU Community

Size Of Hose From Boost Controller, Makes A Difference?

DriftinThruLife

By DriftinThruLife,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

DriftinThruLife Enthusiast

DriftinThruLife

Posted
Posted

Hi People.

My question is, does the diameter or width of the hose which goes from the boost controller (manual) to turbo make a difference?

I have been changing some factory hoses with silicon hoses, and for this particular hose... when i took it out and looked at the inner size of the hose (the hole) it didn't exactly match up with the sizes of the silicon hoses I had.

I tried putting a smaller size (this was very tight, and I took it off just incase it would split at where I had managed to connect it) and I tried a size that was slightly larger.

When i pressed the accelerator, the boost guage seemed to react the same for the thinner or wider hose.From this I assumed it didn't really matter.

When I started the engine though...it sounded a bit different. It didn't seem to be as loud. When I took it for a drive....(well it's kinda hard to describe) but the boost guage was behaving the same (if not going up higher) but the car seemed to lag slightly?

SO BASICALLY, Does the inner diammeter/width of the hoses going in or out of the boost controller make a difference? I assume it would, as it's controlling the air pressure right? So a wider hose would have the same amount of air at less pressure?

Bare in mind I have next to zero knowledge about turbos. Thanks in advance for any help.

lachlanw Veteran

lachlanw

Posted
Posted

yeah there is probably a reason why all good boost controllers come with different sized lines . 6 mm for boost sorce and to solenoid and 4 mm for boost reference signal

PM-R33 Grand Master

PM-R33

Posted
Posted (edited)

Once the line is under pressure there is no difference. It's the difference in time it takes to pressurize that line that is important. The difference in time it takes is the amount of volume between the two sources that air has to occupy. (Think of a bigger example as intercooler piping and the turbo needing to pressurize all the piping before it gets to the intake).

For a boost controller this can mean a spike if it takes to long for the line to pressurize and then the boost controller to bleed off the air it needs. We are talking fractions of a second in such a small line. So if a line is really long or really large in diameter, it can make a difference and cause a spike that would not have occured if the line was shorter or smaller. With the diameter of most vacuum lines used for boost controllers, you aren't talking much. For example going from a 4mm hose to a 6mm hose would be the equivalent volume as say another extra 5cm in line of the 4mm hose (For example. If you want to do the calcs for the exact amount of a given length you can)

So in other words unless you are using 1/2" vacuum line for your boost controller it aint going to change sweet f**k all.

Keep your lines short is the main thing, dont have them looping half way around the engine bay and then into the car through the dash if you want your boost controller to work well.

Edited by PM-R33
R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted

It can make a difference. Length indeed makes a difference as well. I've seen it first hand.

Length and diameter over say 2-3 meters (seen people hide bleeders on drivers side of the engine bay) etc etc.

Being the hose gets hotter and expands more and more the larger base you start from.

Well... that's my guess anyway :)

SECURITY Grand Master

SECURITY

Posted
Posted

depends on how thick the walls are. the thicker, the better it will perform in terms of being prone to kinking and closing up on itself in vacuum. ive seen plenty of the thin walled hoses close up on themselves.

size matters boys :)

DriftinThruLife Enthusiast

DriftinThruLife

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Hmmm, you know what...I reckon I'll put up a pic of the 2 hoses side-by-side....then i'll let you decide.

SECURITY...that's a scary a** display pic you have man...wouldnt wanna meet him in a dark alley.

Lukas33....mmm that's a sexy a** display pic you have man....they wouldn't wanna meet me in a dark alley.

Lukas 33 Proficient

Lukas 33

Posted
Posted
haha sorry mate. had to.

as long as theyre short they should be no problem.

HAHAHA YES!!! i was going to point that out but thought I should keep my serious hat on. Then you went and did it :) Top work :laugh:

Yeh well after your line busting like that Phil Im surprised you didn't recommend it, Must admit though it does make you engine bay look the sex.

Yeh I have a Profec B Spec II aswell and its about 20cm from cooler pipe to solenoid. So its very short. So as long as its long enough to fit in the gap but not too long as it doesn't get pressurised/hard quick enough AND as long as it is thick enough. It should hold any load/boost without spiking nicely

Lukas 33 Proficient

Lukas 33

Posted
Posted
pussy, shoulda kept stuck into it! :ninja:

HAHAHA Stock internal 25 on 2.5 bar......harden up phil.

He is not joking about everything being braid either. He has braided electrical wiring going to the ceiling light. He has even made a steering wheel cover out of braid. Rumor has it that he has redone all the plumbing in his house with braid.

DriftinThruLife Enthusiast

DriftinThruLife

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Hmm looks like I have to change it back or get another one anyway.

It started making a high pitched whitsling noise today. And I'm guessing that's either because of a hole in it, or crack, or the plastic ties aren't tight enough but yeh....some sort of leak.

Oh well, back to the drawing board.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      $5 Clock upgrade for R32 GTR

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      The attached document is fine. I just downloaded & opened it.
    • ToothDR32
      $5 Clock upgrade for R32 GTR

      By ToothDR32 · Posted

      Hello, sorry for being late to join the discussion, but my clock just died on me.   Ive tried to look at Michaels digital clock repair.docx and it doesnt work maybe the file has expired.   Please let me know if you can re upload it or take some youtube videos to show us how to get the clock installed? thanks
    • MissMintyR33
      R33 persistent issues. P/steering and lag/misfire

      By MissMintyR33 · Posted

      I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • jtha7
      Strange issue RB25DET wont start

      By jtha7 · Posted

      Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • jtha7
      Strange issue RB25DET wont start

      By jtha7 · Posted

      Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
×
×
  • Create New...