Putting A Turbo Back In

[azzafreddy]

ill make it easy, can someone please explain to me how to set up the whole coolant feed & return then i can cover all bases, the coolant feed has an 18mm thread that bolts into the turbo & a 14mm thread that bolts into the rear end of the block, the only confusing thing is the 14mm connection into the rear end of the block is already holding a copper circle with a rubber hose running off of it up the back of my block, im just unsure what im meant to do here, should i put both copper circles (one from the coolant feed & the one thats already there) on the same 14mm bolt meaning there would be 2 copper circles on the same bolt, or do i bolt one of them elsewhere? is it possible that the existing one is just temporary because i didnt have a turbo?.. the coolant return pipe has an 18mm thread into the turbo as well but doesnt have a screw on the other end of it just a rubber hose thats meant to go somewhere i am unsure where its meant to go, any help would be much appreciated.

Edited February 21, 2010 by azzafreddy

[Cartman]

ill make it easy, can someone please explain to me how to set up the whole coolant feed & return then i can cover all bases, the coolant feed has an 18mm thread that bolts into the turbo & a 14mm thread that bolts into the rear end of the block, the only confusing thing is the 14mm connection into the rear end of the block is already holding a copper circle with a rubber hose running off of it up the back of my block, im just unsure what im meant to do here, should i put both copper circles (one from the coolant feed & the one thats already there) on the same 14mm bolt meaning there would be 2 copper circles on the same bolt, or do i bolt one of them elsewhere? is it possible that the existing one is just temporary because i didnt have a turbo?.. the coolant return pipe has an 18mm thread into the turbo as well but doesnt have a screw on the other end of it just a rubber hose thats meant to go somewhere i am unsure where its meant to go, any help would be much appreciated.

the pipe with the copper circle thingy your talking about are banjo bolts

the water feed comes from that 14mm thread on the block and goes to the turbo, than the other line goes from the turbo with that copper circle thing your talking about to that rubber hose your talking about... the rubber hose part travels behind the engine and over to the inlet side of the block, there will either be a fitting off the plenum that the hose is suppose to go to or it'll be a t piece off one of your heater lines... 

[azzafreddy]

alright ill check it out, thanks cartman, i've gotta wait like a week for my new steel braided hoses to arrive so ill post how i go when the time comes..

Edited February 21, 2010 by azzafreddy

[azzafreddy]

okay im going to explain this using pictures that i found on another forum..

these photos are of an rb25det rebuild, with the same braided turbo coolant/oil lines that i have on order.

im not sure which line is the coolant feed and which is the return, but at this stage its not what im trying to find out, im pretty sure this is the feed..

im pretty sure this is the return going to the back of the block..

ok what i've been trying to explain, theres 2 yellow circles on the 2nd picture, at the moment there is a rubber hose going between them 2 coolant connections, is it just temporary because my turbo has been removed? i am in the process of setting my turbo up again, ive done all the work apart from the coolant lines, should i set them up exactly like the pictures show?

p.s i do have the same metal braided lines on order hopefully they are here tomorrow..

please dont hesitate to tell me if this doesnt make sense i've been trying my hardest to explain it, next step ill take some pictures of my engine.

Edited February 28, 2010 by azzafreddy

[R32 DORI DORI]

Exactly like the picture.

[azzafreddy]

alright, thanks allot buddy, made my day, i've been wondering what the hell to do for the last few days, now when my metal braided line kit comes i can just put it all togethor ..

[R32 DORI DORI]

No problem Aaron, while your idea was a silly one and a very silly one at that it is thinking outside the box.

But may I suggest staying well inside the box in the future.

[azzafreddy]

the car did run quite well after a while, but never the less the engine was setup to run with a turbo, taking the turbo out isn't the greatest of ideas.. i'm glad with what i have learned from this forum & appreciate all the people that are willing to help out, ill post up some pics when i'm finished & the cars going well.. cheers.

[SECURITY]

let me know if you want pics of a motor with the lines fitted. ive got one complete with turbo and lines installed sitting on my engine stand.

[Rowdy]

well, if anything else this has been a very enjoyable read.

hah ha you've gotten a good flaming hey

and you owe SECURITY a good long b/j, gold bullion or your firstborn hah ha.

good luck with it all

[azzafreddy]

cheers SECURITY ill let you know how it all goes i am pretty sure ive got it all worked out tho..

[azzafreddy]

alright everything is done, no leaks, everythings been double checked & tightened well. car seems to run great, however there is 1 thing that i am slightly concerned about, after about a min of running a light smoke comes from around the turbo area, i had it running for 10 mins like that & the temperature guage did not move past half way. i was thinking about something 'mad082' said a while ago about disconnecting something & turning the engine over to get the oil into the turbo lines before actually starting the car, how do i do this? i cant find the post for the life of me.. cheers.

[SECURITY]

that is just oil from touching the turbo during the swap burning off the turbo housing. completely normal, should go away after 20mins or so after the car gets to operating temp.

[azzafreddy]

alright, it does seem to be getting less & less every time i run the car, thanks allot, if i have any other problems ill post it, kinda scared to go for a drive ust incase something happens lol. even tho i know ive done everything correct.

[Kwyjibo]

Yeah when I did a turbo swap mine did that the next few times I drove and you could smell it for a few days.

[SECURITY]

take it for a nice hard drive and it goes away pretty quickly

[azzafreddy]

cars running really good, hits boost at about 3500 rpm, so much smoother & easier to drive, wow.

[azzafreddy]

cars still running alright, smokes dissapeared completely, it gets hot allot quicker but never goes over half way, there is one thing thats annoying me when i slow down for an intersection go to third then second then turn, sometimes it stalls like i can have my clutch all the way in and the car shuts off & i turn the key to restart whilst still rolling and continue on in 2nd gear, also the other day when i first drove it after i put the turbo in it was possible to change gears without the blow off valve sounding (slight touch of boost), now i have to rev it right out because it runs really low revs for what speed im doing, for instance i sit on 2000 rpm or a tad under when im going 60 thats a really strange feeling to me.. possibly a tune?

[gotRICE?]

you should be hitting boost at least 1500rpm earlier than that!

[SECURITY]

i think he means full boost.

check for a vacuum leak somewhere in the cooler/inlet piping. also check the AAC valve guide in the DIY for the stalling issue, also clean your AFM.

the tune should be running back to normal now but try 'refreshing' the ECU;

disconnect the -ve terminal of the battery and pump your brakes for a good min or 2 till you're sure the car is completely drained of power. reconnect the terminal then take the car for a 'spirited' drive.

if that doesnt fix it then post up some more details of what its doing.