Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi there, I've had my RB30DET for a few months now, it's been running off an RB25DET ECU with a Mines chip (as far as I know) and seems to run 'okay'. Well apparently the RB25DET ECU is hard/expensive/not worth chipping for tuning. My mate gave me a working RB20DET ECU but problem is, my RB30DET has had VCT retained. Any recommendations on a controller to use to activate the VCT solenoid? (I assume it's as simple as that? I don't know much about it)

I was looking at something like this: http://www.jegs.com/i/MSD-Ignition/121/896...roductId=754062 - anyone used one of these or something like it before with success?

Cheers.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/301396-vct-controller/
Share on other sites

I used that same Msd unit when i couldnt get the Nvcs to activate when i changed from auto to manual..... Worked good, no issues although i think the gain was verrry minimal when playing with different settings on the road.

Boost did seem to come on slightly earlier and a little faster but as i said there was very little difference almost undetectable between on and off....

Bear in mind i was using the stock ecu, but i think the benefits of the nvcs can be compensated for or over ridden with a good tune of ign timing down in that area

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/301396-vct-controller/#findComment-5004708
Share on other sites

being in NZ why not just get a link G4 plugin and save yourself the hassle?

Unfortunately I'm not made of money, I'm probably going to use a NISTune daughterboard, I'm not really keen to spend $2k+tuning on a standalone ECU when I have a fairly basic engine. I wouldn't think hooking up a bunch of extra wires would be $2k+ worth of hassle.

I used that same Msd unit when i couldnt get the Nvcs to activate when i changed from auto to manual..... Worked good, no issues although i think the gain was verrry minimal when playing with different settings on the road.

Boost did seem to come on slightly earlier and a little faster but as i said there was very little difference almost undetectable between on and off....

Bear in mind i was using the stock ecu, but i think the benefits of the nvcs can be compensated for or over ridden with a good tune of ign timing down in that area

Ah sweet that someone has used it in the same way, I found a few forum posts about others using it on the same engines too so that's good. The engine has already been built with VCT retained so I may as well get a controller for it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/301396-vct-controller/#findComment-5004800
Share on other sites

Unfortunately I'm not made of money, I'm probably going to use a NISTune daughterboard, I'm not really keen to spend $2k+tuning on a standalone ECU when I have a fairly basic engine. I wouldn't think hooking up a bunch of extra wires would be $2k+ worth of hassle.

Ah sweet that someone has used it in the same way, I found a few forum posts about others using it on the same engines too so that's good. The engine has already been built with VCT retained so I may as well get a controller for it.

Get the controller. You can find the optimum on/off positions on the dyno. As per one of SK's posts i read years ago: do one run with it on and one run with it off - the charts will show you where to set the changeover points.
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/301396-vct-controller/#findComment-5005967
Share on other sites

the msd switching system works but needs a coil pack adapter, and is dear. I have a spare tach adapter you can have if you decide to go that way though. (i use alot of the switches and adapters for NOS installs)

the jaycar one works and is about $35 bucks (search in the forced induction forum, i posted part numbers)

or use a Z32 ecu like bubba posted.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/301396-vct-controller/#findComment-5009249
Share on other sites

the msd switching system works but needs a coil pack adapter, and is dear. I have a spare tach adapter you can have if you decide to go that way though. (i use alot of the switches and adapters for NOS installs)

the jaycar one works and is about $35 bucks (search in the forced induction forum, i posted part numbers)

or use a Z32 ecu like bubba posted.

No coil pack adapter needed.... just take a signal for the tach output from the ecu. Worked fine for me.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/301396-vct-controller/#findComment-5010623
Share on other sites

Yeah I think the tach adapter is for the non-digital MSD RPM switch?

Also, URAS, I couldn't find the part numbers you posted from jaycar but I found this http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?I...mp;SUBCATID=347 - but how can you use that to make it switch off again at higher RPM?

And I could mod a Z32 ECU but I already have an RB20DET ECU that I got for free and the Z32 one would cost more than a VCT controller along with having to modify the Z32 ECU/my loom which I'd rather not.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/301396-vct-controller/#findComment-5011766
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ha, well, it's been.... a bit of a journey. Things have taken much longer than I'd hoped. I'll probably put up a thread at some stage. Hopefully soon. The car's not done any kms since my update in June though, put it that way.
    • Here's the chart for fuel pressure vs. current draw, assuming your base fuel pressure is 3 bar and you run like 0.5bar boost on WOT, you should only momentarily hit 9amps here and there. (Ignore my prev post, I cannot read a chart these days it seems)
    • Those comp test results are not hideous. Whether they are accurate or not (ie, when that comp tester says 140 psi, is the real pressure120, 140 or 160?) is unknown to us. The state of the battery used to crank it over is unknown, etc etc. Many people around here would say that the absolute values and the spread are perfectly fine to just add boost and keep going. I personally would be happier with a narrower spread than that, but even the diff between 125 and 145 is not terrible. That one cylinder at 125 though, has probably copped some damage relative to the others. You should inspect the valves seeing as you've got it open. Do you know how to measure installed ring gaps? That, and an inspection of the rings themselves, is how you will determine whether they need to be replaced. If you're not good to do these things, take the block and the pistons and rings to a shop that is, and ask them for the go/no-go on them. Do the bores need a hone at all? If so, you might well be justified in getting some different pistons in order to get away from the ring supply problem. Whether you're happy to spend a lot more money right now, on more gear, rather than less money, but an amount that looks stupid given that you will only get a handful of rings in exchange for that money, is for you to decide.
    • also possibly backed up to my filler and shat down it! 🤣
    • Ok so i would love some advice here please, i purchased an R33 a few months back and its had a few mods done to the engine, its an RB25det running a Master ECU, 1200cc injectors, bigger turbo, oil cooler, oil filter relocation kit, Spool H-beam rods, acl/ross pistons. When i removed the motor from the vehicle (as its getting a respray) i thought i would compression test it and these are the following results. Cylinder 1-145psi, Cylinder 2-143psi, Cylinder 3-125psi, Cylinder 4-145psi, Cylinder 5-140psi, Cylinder 6-135psi this test was done with the motor on the ground and powering up the starter motor. I dropped the sump and found broken oil squirters on cylinder 3,5 and 6. I was told my rings are probably worn so i stripped the motor completely to get a new set of rings for it. The trouble is no one has these rings anywhere and they have to be custom made by Ross over in the states and will cost about $600+$200 delivery. My question is how can i tell if my rings are at fault and if they are still ok and is this price ok for a set of rings?
×
×
  • Create New...