Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 230
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

rear fender needs a roll and maybe an inch lower (two FTW, but 1 will be acceptable) all around for good stance. Right now that's just mexican.

Still, great choice of wheels, and sweet car. Just needs those finishing touches.

i vote for no camber and epic flare + low

agreed... supra guards have a lot of give, flare em out. go against the grain, you don't see many supras with flared guards.

This is why I called mexican...

4111925418_a0105d677e_b.jpg

I'd consider these good fitment, either high and flush, or slammed n tucked:

3631288645_b85903ef7b_o.jpg

Picture012.jpg

Picture024.jpg

565.jpg

img4964x.jpg

camber is win.. high an flush is fail. its like stock fitment.

fenced... i still consider flush with proper fitting wheels and unstretched tyres with minimal gap between the fender good fitment. you gotta choose the wheels with the right offset to sit flush, plus you gotta be running some stiff suspension to ensure the tyres don't shred themselves on the guard over every bump... possibly takes more balls to run around on than stretched tyres under a flared guard. guard clearance has to be between a bees dick and pinky fingerable to qualify though.

agreed... on the low.... but using camber to fit wheels is ghey imho... i like to be able to get traction when needed...

i can only just get a pinky in mine, and i still get all the rubber to the road

Hey guys, thanks for positive/neg feedback. Its rare to see a supra with aggresivness. I actually think mines the only one around the world with the crazy fitment with stock body.

That red car is running TRD widebody rear. Id love that, but too much $$. I took my car to a place to flare the guards, but they said on a supra its a really big job. They have to actually cut out the whole guards, and get a new guards and work on that..or something along those lines. Bottom line is it would cost alot and require a respray.

Also I can lower it more, but the front lip scrapes everywhere as it is, plus my alignment/height is setup for track work with smaller (gay offset) wheels, so I need to compromise that.

Here is my old SA-90 & RE30

2973273281_336a136661_b.jpg

3490023381_91e15d6394_b.jpg

I have no idea wht is involved with flaring. Id love to get them flared slightly (not dodgy like some drift cars I seen). but have no idea who does it. I dont want to spend $$ on a respray either, and as far as i know, you need to respray once you start flaring?

Hey guys, thanks for positive/neg feedback. Its rare to see a supra with aggresivness. I actually think mines the only one around the world with the crazy fitment with stock body.

Probably not the only one in the world with the wrong width or offset wheels for a stock body. If you're gonna run a stock body, then choose appropriate wheels (the black one I posted is similar height/body mods, see how his wheels suit the look?). Having em sticking out of a stock body without aggressive ride height and flare (or camber n tuckkage for alex :D) just looks like you just grabbed some wheels that came up for sale without putting any thought on how they'd sit under the guards.

I took my car to a place to flare the guards, but they said on a supra its a really big job. They have to actually cut out the whole guards, and get a new guards and work on that..or something along those lines. Bottom line is it would cost alot and require a respray.
Cut guards to flare them? what? you're not pulling em right out. metal has a bit of give, and a sheet of metal around a supra guard is large enough to massage out some flare without need to cut and weld bits in. Respray may be necessary if you wanna pull the metal out heaps, but a light roll won't need a respray if done right (heat up the entire panel, then massage it out slowly or even use a wood slapper n shot bag).

I don't mean to offend, just giving you an opinion that you may not always hear other than "omg that's a hot car" (which it is, but we're just critiquing its stance here).

funkymonkey, thats cool, tahnks for the tips. Trust me I get more flammage in the Supra world with my "Stance". I actually love the look of it, and specifially ordered them in those size/offset. It was no mistake.

Another pic someone posted today from a meet on the weekend.

4339815365_2b0413c1ee_o.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Did this end up working? Did you take some pictures?
    • And finally, the front lower mount. It was doubly weird. Firstly, the lower mount is held in with a bracket that has 3 bolts (it also acts as the steering lock stop), and then a nut on the shock lower mount itself. So, remove the 3x 14mm head bolts , then the 17mm nut that holds the shock in. From there, you can't actually remove the shock from the lower mount bolt (took me a while to work that out....) Sadly I don't have a pic of the other side, but the swaybar mounts to the same bolt that holds the shock in. You need to push that swaybar mount/bolt back so the shock can be pulled out past the lower control arm.  In this pic you can see the bolt partly pushed back, but it had to go further than that to release the shock. Once the shock is out, putting the new one in is "reverse of disassembly". Put the top of the shock through at least one hole and put a nut on loosely to hold it in place. Put the lower end in place and push the swaybar mount / shock bolt back in place, then loosely attach the other 2 top nuts. Bolt the bracket back in place with the 14mm head bolts and finally put the nut onto the lower bolt. Done....you have new suspension on your v37!
    • And now to the front.  No pics of the 3 nuts holding the front struts on, they are easy to spot. Undo 2 and leave the closest one on loosely. Underneath we have to deal with the wiring again, but this time its worse because the plug is behind the guard liner. You'll have to decide how much of the guard liner to remove, I undid the lower liner's top, inside and lower clips, but didn't pull it full off the guard. Same issue undoing the plug as at the rear, you need to firmly push the release clip from below while equally firmly gripping the plug body and pulling it out of  the socket. I used my fancy electrical disconnect pliers to get in there There is also one clip for the wiring, unlike at the rear I could not get behind it so just had to lever it up and out.....not in great condition to re-use in future.
    • Onto the rear lower shock mount. It's worth starting with a decent degrease to remove 10+ years of road grime, and perhaps also spray a penetrating oil on the shock lower nut. Don't forget to include the shock wiring and plug in the clean.... Deal with the wiring first; you need to release 2 clips where the wiring goes into the bracket (use long nose pliers behind the bracket to compress the clip so you can reuse it), and the rubber mount slides out, then release the plug.  I found it very hard to unplug, from underneath you can compress the tab with a screwdriver or similar, and gently but firmly pull the plug out of the socket (regular pliers may help but don't put too much pressure on the plastic. The lower mount is straightforward, 17mm nut and you can pull the shock out. As I wasn't putting a standard shock back in, I gave the car side wiring socket a generous gob of dialectric grease to keep crap out in the future. Putting the new shock in is straightforward, feed it into at least 1 of the bolt holes at the top and reach around to put a nut on it to hold it up. Then put on the other 2 top nuts loosely and put the shock onto the lower mounting bolt (you may need to lift the hub a little if the new shock is shorter). Tighten the lower nut and 3 upper nuts and you are done. In my case the BC Racing shocks came assembled for the fronts, but the rears needed to re-use the factory strut tops. For that you need spring compressors to take the pressure off the top nut (they are compressed enough when the spring can move between the top and bottom spring seats. Then a 17mm ring spanner to undo the nut while using an 8mm open spanner to stop the shaft turning (or, if you are really lucky you might get it off with a rattle gun).
    • You will now be able to lift the parcel shelf trim enough to get to the shock cover bolts; if you need to full remove the parcel shelf trim for some reason you also remove the escutcheons around the rear seat release and you will have to unplug the high stop light wiring from the boot. Next up is removal of the bracket; 6 nuts and a bolt Good news, you've finally got to the strut top! Remove the dust cover and the 3 shock mount nuts (perhaps leave 1 on lightly for now....) Same on the other side, but easier now you've done it all before
×
×
  • Create New...