Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

4253899054_8cf82fb3c6.jpg

http://www.flickr.com/photos/42559667@N06/4253899054/

Today's photo is of my dirty 18x9.5+35 rear wheel on the ceffy parked up against the garage door. Added some split toning and colour burn to bring out the detail in the dirt and alloy post process.

  • Replies 164
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Nice Funkymonkey!

I think the cross processing look brings out the image a lot more. I like it :P

Here's mine for today (yesterday) i think i went a little too overboard, but i still like it.

Jan%207th,%202010.jpg

Ok guy's I need your help I have a eos cannon rebel and I want to get a good pick of my front end moving how close do I have to be and what kind of speed in the car and schutter speed ....I'm new at this .....I dont have a wide angle lence .....I do have hero cam!!!! with wide angle but I can't slow down the shutter speed I don't think

By the sounds of it you mean a rig shot? If so you will need suction cups(Avenger F1000), boom arm(Around 10-15ft pole that has minimum flex), magic arm(Manfrotto) and super clamps(Manfrotto).

Otherwise for panning, shutter speed of between 1-30th - 1/160th (Depending on how much motion blur you want), pan with the car as it drives along and keep panning with it until the shutter has completely closed and taken the photo.

Takes a fair bit of practice but your bound to get a keeper. Best to start with your shutter speed higher and lower it as your keeper rate gets more successful. Normally you don't use WA lenses for this, you use super tele's (70-200/300/400/500/600) because you will be shooting from a distance and want a nice tight framed shot.

Hope i helped.

ah nice one kory. how did you light that? couple of speedlights, gels?

ive got two speedlights now and only just starting to learn how to use them properly. will be a bit of a curve for me, im used to straight up motorsports where flash is actually a no no, lol.

Close Funkymonkey!

I used a Vivitar 285HV with a 1/2 CTO gel and a pure blue Gel to light the background (put right underneath the glass a bit further back and bounced off the background).

And then 2x AB800's (strobes) to light it.

Everything was off camera and triggered by wireless triggers.

It's pretty simple to do, you just need a flash/strobe that has a fast enough flash durating to freeze the liquid. It is basically a light tent that it is in (the glass).

Setup consisted of:

White styrofoam on the sides of the cup and behind the cup (background). The White pretty much acts as reflectors.

1x AB800 on the left with a PLM (big bounce umbrella) with White front Diffuser fabric on which is equivalent to a large softbox.

1X AB800 on the right in a 47" octabox.

Tripod - so you can make a composite and because for this i found it was easier to keep everything straight.

Reason i used modifiers is to soften the light so it is not as specular and hard. I really am a fan of soft light.

I also did a composite with this image. I took one of the background with the glass there. Then turned on the strobes, and got my mate to drop icecubes in from above and then merged them together in photoshop and added layer masks to paint in some drops/splashes and then used the healing brush to blend it all together.

It was shot at 1/125th, ISO 100, F5.6 (i think from memory, unsure if the exif is still there).

AB800's were at 1/32th power.

Hope i have helped and sorry for the super long info! Got a bit carried away :(

Edited by FST513

From what i can see the photos are still looking great

i was just wondering (havent been able to look in shops or find prices online)

BUT

approx how much are shutter release cords? need one for my canon. even though every weekend i tell myself i want to go play with the camera and it NEVER happens.

i like jay019's middle shot and zennons city corner shot.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...