Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys i wanna change my suspention and im finding it hard to find sumthing that suits my needs, i few people have told me to get the green aus diliverd teins but im not sure if there any good cause theres a bit of debate on em, one of my other mates has said to me to the 50/50 setup on the rear with sumthing like a 3kg spring on a standard shoker with a 90/10 with a 9 or 8 or7 kg spring on the front,

im not after sumthing to slide i want sumthing that when i launch i get a good squat and hopefully the least amount of wheel spin possible.

what do you guys rekon???

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/302405-r34-suspention-help/
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Just so you know, you have an NA R34 which means you'll need to buy suspension which fits R33... Unless yours is the R34 GT-V model? Don't ask me why.

I would suggest maybe TEIN Super-street coilovers. They are a good compromise between street and track.

Edited by -Jimmy-
Just so you know, you have an NA R34 which means you'll need to buy suspension which fits R33... Unless yours is the R34 GT-V model? Don't ask me why.

I would suggest maybe TEIN Super-street coilovers. They are a good compromise between street and track.

yea the 33 is a strait fit, i wonder why nissan designed it all like that? i heard and i think it may be stupid but the hks streets 1's in the purple range are ok?

hks coilovers are heaps stiff. had them in my car, and to my experience they were stiff as bricks

you've mentioned you want something that when you launch squats over the rear wheels for good traction take off. best bet is stock suspension. read somewhere that the best suspension of drag and launch is the standard springs and shocks.

I purchased BC coil-overs with 30 settings for dampening for my R34 N/A, I set them to L6 for dampening and they have been really good for the price $1299.00

There is one downfall having coil-overs that are not configured for street use though, but if you never go up any steep gradients then you will be fine.

A good starting point with suspension would be to upgrade your sways bars to something a bit more beefier (fairly cheap these days), and you will definitely need to upgrade your rubber bushes all round if installing lowered suspension, they make all the difference in the end.

Not meaning to diss your coilovers, but a mate of mine had BC coilovers on this 03 wrx sti, spring snapped clean in half

LOL... i havent heard or seen that before.

I have run BC Type BR coilovers for over 12 months and done a probably 8 or 9 track days. They are fairly soft once you go the track - spring rates could be a lot stiffer! - however on teh road they are great. The travel is enough that it never lifts wheels - very important some you you 2 wheel drive guys!

On damper settings 5-10 its comfortable on all but the sharp bumps and on 20-25 its good at speed with sufficient damping to controll the car under brakes on the throttle and at any speed.

Best of all they are cheap and have 12 month thingy - bonus!

There are TEINS that are bricks and...

there are TEINS that are brilliant...

Just repeating Ryan's earlier Q, what do you want to do with your setup - besides 'do squat'?

Are you after progressive springs on coilovers for different road variations? Track?

As said previously, if you are just worried about straight line launches then I would leave the factory suspension.

I get quite a lot of wheel spin on launches with coilovers with a lightly modded GT-T. They are too stiff for launches as they dont get enough squat.

Coilovers are more for cornering and/or lowering your car.

No disrespect intended but are you having traction problems now with the N/A RB25?

  • 2 weeks later...
As said previously, if you are just worried about straight line launches then I would leave the factory suspension.

I get quite a lot of wheel spin on launches with coilovers with a lightly modded GT-T. They are too stiff for launches as they dont get enough squat.

Coilovers are more for cornering and/or lowering your car.

No disrespect intended but are you having traction problems now with the N/A RB25?

im currently makin just over 300rwkw and i wanna go for more but yea... wats the use of goin more power if i dont hook up, ill just end up goin slower. yea i mite go the stock suspention, any ideas for spring rates???

  • 2 weeks later...
im currently makin just over 300rwkw and i wanna go for more but yea... wats the use of goin more power if i dont hook up, ill just end up goin slower. yea i mite go the stock suspention, any ideas for spring rates???

Leave the stock rear spring rates and dampers, and raise the rear right height by 10-15mm, then lower the front by the same. This angled stance encourages more weight transfer to the rear end on take-off, resulting in more traction at launch.

Use a higher profile sticky tyre to absorb the shock and 'hook up' better, and if you don't have some sort of mechanical diff lock, then get one so that both rears hook up exactly the same every time, with an up-graded rear swaybar to resist the torque transfer to the chassis.

You're obviously using the widest tyres you can fit under there...right?

If you are still having issues after doing all that, then you'll have to decide how much driveablility you're willing to sacrifice to launch harder.

Another thing is that you can get your computer mapping changed to only hit full RPM/boost later, when you are already moving, ie launch control.

Not meaning to diss your coilovers, but a mate of mine had BC coilovers on this 03 wrx sti, spring snapped clean in half

my mate has had bc coilovers on his gc8 rex for 3 years now... no dramas... and it wears semi slicks and sees regular thrashing round corners.

im currently makin just over 300rwkw and i wanna go for more but yea... wats the use of goin more power if i dont hook up, ill just end up goin slower. yea i mite go the stock suspention, any ideas for spring rates???

300 rwkw from an N/A RB25?! hmm...

i think you'll find his car is far from N/A..... try RB26, with some help from Race Pace

you still have stock suspension even after all the work you've done? if so, you're a brave man...

I have 290rwkw, ~560nm and no traction issues with KU36's and SydneyKid's suspension kit. SK's kit can be easily replicated with off the shelf stuff. Mainly whiteline parts but with bilstein shocks. Not ridiculous spring rates, but still firm and can handle street and track duties.

But the old bridgestones i had were not up to the task, only once i switched to the KU36's did i get full traction back.

I would start with sway bars and good tyres, and go from there.

  • 2 weeks later...

yea ive done the sway bar along with rods etc... im using falcons 1 stage before semi slicks nd they still get spiining.... im not using stock suspention, rear atm i got hks hyper D (f*kn shit) and front i got standard strut with modified springs.... when it hooks up it hooks up... i get awsum lift on the front and a decent squat its just a matter of bouncing on the throttle till i get sum traction happeining... im desperate for more power but like i said... i need a good suspention... theres so much debate about wats good and whats not

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ha, well, it's been.... a bit of a journey. Things have taken much longer than I'd hoped. I'll probably put up a thread at some stage. Hopefully soon. The car's not done any kms since my update in June though, put it that way.
    • Here's the chart for fuel pressure vs. current draw, assuming your base fuel pressure is 3 bar and you run like 0.5bar boost on WOT, you should only momentarily hit 9amps here and there. (Ignore my prev post, I cannot read a chart these days it seems)
    • Those comp test results are not hideous. Whether they are accurate or not (ie, when that comp tester says 140 psi, is the real pressure120, 140 or 160?) is unknown to us. The state of the battery used to crank it over is unknown, etc etc. Many people around here would say that the absolute values and the spread are perfectly fine to just add boost and keep going. I personally would be happier with a narrower spread than that, but even the diff between 125 and 145 is not terrible. That one cylinder at 125 though, has probably copped some damage relative to the others. You should inspect the valves seeing as you've got it open. Do you know how to measure installed ring gaps? That, and an inspection of the rings themselves, is how you will determine whether they need to be replaced. If you're not good to do these things, take the block and the pistons and rings to a shop that is, and ask them for the go/no-go on them. Do the bores need a hone at all? If so, you might well be justified in getting some different pistons in order to get away from the ring supply problem. Whether you're happy to spend a lot more money right now, on more gear, rather than less money, but an amount that looks stupid given that you will only get a handful of rings in exchange for that money, is for you to decide.
    • also possibly backed up to my filler and shat down it! 🤣
    • Ok so i would love some advice here please, i purchased an R33 a few months back and its had a few mods done to the engine, its an RB25det running a Master ECU, 1200cc injectors, bigger turbo, oil cooler, oil filter relocation kit, Spool H-beam rods, acl/ross pistons. When i removed the motor from the vehicle (as its getting a respray) i thought i would compression test it and these are the following results. Cylinder 1-145psi, Cylinder 2-143psi, Cylinder 3-125psi, Cylinder 4-145psi, Cylinder 5-140psi, Cylinder 6-135psi this test was done with the motor on the ground and powering up the starter motor. I dropped the sump and found broken oil squirters on cylinder 3,5 and 6. I was told my rings are probably worn so i stripped the motor completely to get a new set of rings for it. The trouble is no one has these rings anywhere and they have to be custom made by Ross over in the states and will cost about $600+$200 delivery. My question is how can i tell if my rings are at fault and if they are still ok and is this price ok for a set of rings?
×
×
  • Create New...