Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys

i own r34 25gt and next week im going to inspection place for my rego. i currently use hsd coilovers on the fronts, and i need to replace it with the oem.

does anyone here can do backyard job at my place in Bruce? i got all the tools except car stands & coil compressor. if so, can u PM me?

and one more thing, i just moved my free-maintenance battery to the boot along with my sound system. is it gonna be a problem for the inspection? are they gonna be fussy w/ that?

cheers.

thanks for the offer, but i got the OEM as well. just need to pass the rego for 1 day and slap them back again.

i did the coilover bymyself, i cant put back the OEM because it needs spring compressor. ROFL.

thanks for the offer, but i got the OEM as well. just need to pass the rego for 1 day and slap them back again.

i did the coilover bymyself, i cant put back the OEM because it needs spring compressor. ROFL.

I have a set of spring compressor's if you want to borrow them, But i wouldn't have to time to help you swap them over.

I have a set of spring compressor's if you want to borrow them, But i wouldn't have to time to help you swap them over.

thanks for the offer guys. i really appreciate it.

i did try the supercheap's compressors but it was too big when i tried to fit it thru' the tie rod.

Edited by putraged

You shouldn't have to use the spring compressors until the whole shock/strut assembly is out. Also with coilovers you should never need them at all. What you will need them for is putting springs back onto your original struts.

Cheers,

Adrian

hey guys

i own r34 25gt and next week im going to inspection place for my rego. i currently use hsd coilovers on the fronts, and i need to replace it with the oem.

does anyone here can do backyard job at my place in Bruce? i got all the tools except car stands & coil compressor. if so, can u PM me?

and one more thing, i just moved my free-maintenance battery to the boot along with my sound system. is it gonna be a problem for the inspection? are they gonna be fussy w/ that?

cheers.

In relation to the second battery in the boot for your sound system. Providing it is secured properly and is in a breather box you shouldn't have an issue at the pits. Even the no/low maintenance battery's do need to be in the Marine box with breather. I've been down that road. No certificate required.

Cheers

S!N

You shouldn't have to use the spring compressors until the whole shock/strut assembly is out. Also with coilovers you should never need them at all. What you will need them for is putting springs back onto your original struts.

Cheers,

Adrian

yea, i have no problem with installing coilover to my car but if u're putting OEM its gonna be a real deal.

OEM suspension's are longer than coilover's. hence u need to compress around 6-8 cm so it would fit.

hmm I cleared an unrelated defect with my coilovers in the car.

how can they pass it? since its illegal without engineer cert.

or u just got lucky the inspector didn't realize it?

In relation to the second battery in the boot for your sound system. Providing it is secured properly and is in a breather box you shouldn't have an issue at the pits. Even the no/low maintenance battery's do need to be in the Marine box with breather. I've been down that road. No certificate required.

Cheers

S!N

thanks for the info, sin.

i've secure it down with 4 point holders. i drove the car under extreme condition (drift esp.) and it still stay in the place.

what do u mean by a breather box? the whole battery needs to be covered in a box that have the access to fresh air?

where can i get the box from? can u show me the pic of ur boot?

cheers.

why dont you just raise them to a legal height and take it through? where are you going?

i'm going to my friends place in o'connor for inspection.

i don't think u can do that. basically it is still a coilover with adjustable height & softness, even though its on the legal height limit. i just asked my friend regarding to this matter.

its not easy for a coupe skyline to pass the inspection because some of them simply "pick" on us for being imports. i went to a mechanic shop in belconnen mall (forgot the name) and i asked a quote for swapping coilover with oem, they put $200 marks for the front shocks (labour only) until they realized its for r34 skyline (i went there w/ my friend's XR6T). for skyline they quote me $350. its not fair, because they think imports = must have lots of $$$ and they take advantage of that.

how can they pass it? since its illegal without engineer cert.

or u just got lucky the inspector didn't realize it?

Lucky I guess, first time when I swapped over rego they didn't say anything about them, just told me the car was the lowest possible height allowed (they asked me if I had an engineers certificate, told them I bought it off the dealer I assume he may of had one)

2nd time was for a defect, they even told me that my rear coilovers were leaking. So not entirely sure coilovers are illegal, who knows, perhaps they just need to be locked into position.

Both of them I assume had enough knowledge about the car.

Lucky I guess, first time when I swapped over rego they didn't say anything about them, just told me the car was the lowest possible height allowed (they asked me if I had an engineers certificate, told them I bought it off the dealer I assume he may of had one)

2nd time was for a defect, they even told me that my rear coilovers were leaking. So not entirely sure coilovers are illegal, who knows, perhaps they just need to be locked into position.

Both of them I assume had enough knowledge about the car.

i just talk again with the inspection guy in o'connor. he said there's no other way to pass the inspection with coilovers installed except, u weld the height & damper adjuster. i guess they want the suspension to be fixed and not interchangeable.

oh gosh, since when rego-ing the car become more complicated. ACT doesnt have big long road like in WA or QLD anyway. why they bother it soo much.

My 34 passed an inspection at Dickson when I initially bought it with the coilovers installed. That was a few years back though. Shrug.

y u have to go to dickson? 1st hand imports?

man, those regulations becoming mooooreee ridiculous every year.

y u have to go to dickson? 1st hand imports?

man, those regulations becoming mooooreee ridiculous every year.

It didn't officially need one, I just asked the previous owner to get a cleared inspection report from Dickson to confirm I wouldn't have defect issues.

It didn't officially need one, I just asked the previous owner to get a cleared inspection report from Dickson to confirm I wouldn't have defect issues.

good for you, mate. i bought my car from a dealer in vic and rego-ing interstate car in act is just horrible, time consuming, and tricky!!

anyone can help me do this backyard? i'm gonna pay for it anyway, and some cold beer as well :rofl: . just because i wont spend that much money to fit it in any mechanic shops, they rip me off big time. ;)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I did end up getting it sorted, as GTSBoy said, there was a corroded connection and wire that needed to be replaced. I ended up taking out the light assembly, giving everything a good clean and re-soldered the old joints, and it came out good.
    • Wow, thanks for your help guys 🙏. I really appreciate it. Thanks @Rezz, if i fail finding any new or used, full or partial set of original Stage carpets i will come back to you for sure 😉 Explenation is right there, i just missed it 🤦‍♂️. Thanks for pointing out. @soviet_merlin in the meantime, I received a reply from nengun, and i quote: "Thanks for your message and interest in Nengun. KG4900 is for the full set of floor mats, while KG4911 is only the Driver's Floor Mat. FR, RH means Front Right Hand Side. All the Full Set options are now discontinued. However, the Driver's Floor Mat options are still available according to the latest information available to us. We do not know what the differences would be, but if you only want the one mat, we can certainly see what we can find out for you". Interesting. It seems they still have some "new old stock" that Duncan mentioned 🤔. I wonder if they can provide any photos......And i also just realized that amayama have G4900 sets. I'm tempted too. 
    • Any update on this one? did you manage to get it fixed?    i'm having the same issue with my r34 and i believe its to do with the smart entry (keyless) control module but cant be sure without forking out to get a replacement  
    • So this being my first contribution to the SAU forums, I'd like to present and show how I had to solve probably one of the most annoying fixes on any car I've owned: replacing a speedometer (or "speedo") sensor on my newly acquired Series 1 Stagea 260RS Autech Version. I'm simply documenting how I went about to fix this issue, and as I understand it is relatively rare to happen to this generation of cars, it is a gigantic PITA so I hope this helps serve as reference to anyone else who may encounter this issue. NOTE: Although I say this is meant for the 260RS, because the gearbox/drivetrain is shared with the R33 GTR with the 5-speed manual, the application should be exactly the same. Background So after driving my new-to-me Stagea for about 1500km, one night while driving home the speedometer and odometer suddenly stopped working. No clunking noise, no indication something was broken, the speedometer would just stop reading anything and the odometer stopped going up. This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if something was binding the shaft from rotating properly. I got absolutely no voltage reading out of the sensor no matter how fast I turned the shaft. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
    • So this being my first contribution to the SAU forums, I'd like to present and show how I had to solve probably one of the most annoying fixes on any car I've owned: replacing a speedometer (or "speedo") sensor on my newly acquired Series 1 Stagea 260RS Autech Version. I'm simply documenting how I went about to fix this issue, and as I understand it is relatively rare to happen to this generation of cars, it is a gigantic PITA so I hope this helps serve as reference to anyone else who may encounter this issue. NOTE: Although I say this is meant for the 260RS, because the gearbox/drivetrain is shared with the R33 GTR with the 5-speed manual, the application should be exactly the same. Background So after driving my new-to-me Stagea for about 1500km, one night while driving home the speedometer and odometer suddenly stopped working. No clunking noise, no indication something was broken, the speedometer would just stop reading anything and the odometer stopped going up. This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if shttps://imgur.com/6TQCG3xomething was binding the shaft from rotating properly. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
×
×
  • Create New...