Jump to content
SAU Community

Boost Gauge On Skyline R33

skylineGT
 Share

Recommended Posts

Jden Enthusiast

Jden

Posted
Posted
Have just purchased first skyline and i'm not sure if the boost gauge is reading right, it generally sits in the negative and only goes into positive boost when accelerating hard, is this normal?

That's what its supposed to do?

PM-R33 Grand Master

PM-R33

Posted
Posted (edited)
Have just purchased first skyline and i'm not sure if the boost gauge is reading right, it generally sits in the negative and only goes into positive boost when accelerating hard, is this normal?

That is the corect operation of a boost gauge. Under no load the intake pressure sits in a vacuum, demonstrated on the gauge as a negative pressure. Once the engine is under sufficient load and the turbo is "spooling" the pressure will go into a positive "boost" it will continue to climb until the wastegate cracks open and the boost will stabilise at a single value controlled by the wastegate/boost controller.

Have a read of this, good article to explain the basics.

http://www.howstuffworks.com/turbo.htm

Edited by PM-R33
skylineGT Rookie

skylineGT

Posted
  • Author
Posted

k, cheers for that i also wanted to check just below and to the left of the steering wheel there is a screw with a black cap on it that dosen't seem to do any thing is that just for securing some sort of access panel?

gotRICE? Veteran

gotRICE?

Posted
Posted
another question, is it common for the exhaust manifold nuts on cylinders 1 and 6 to come loose/ fall off, and is there a special nut/washer type to stop this?

Totally normal.

Just kidding dude. Maybe the studs are broken so they arent staying tight?

Best thing to do would be to find new ones and just put them on tight.... tight tight. Maybe even some threadlocker?

S1LV3RTRACKS Community Regular

S1LV3RTRACKS

Posted
Posted
Standard gauge isn't the best. Check the line for it hasn't cracked as they tend to do. It comes off the intanke manifold near the firewall, it's a 4mm black rubber hose

I had this issue. The rubber hose becomes brittle and cracks appear which messes up the factory boost gauge. I had some 4mm rubber vacuum hose lying around which I installed and all is fixed with the gauge. Very easy to fix.

CatsEyes Enthusiast

CatsEyes

Posted
Posted
I had this issue. The rubber hose becomes brittle and cracks appear which messes up the factory boost gauge. I had some 4mm rubber vacuum hose lying around which I installed and all is fixed with the gauge. Very easy to fix.

Yep, I had the same trouble. That little hose just gets brittle with age. Also causes a vacuum leak, which harms the boost as well.

A few bucks worth of hose from Autobarn should do it!

  • 4 months later...
seriesII Mentor

seriesII

Posted
Posted
Standard gauge isn't the best. Check the line for it hasn't cracked as they tend to do. It comes off the intanke manifold near the firewall, it's a 4mm black rubber hose

hi.. thought i would post here.

this hose for the stock clusters boost gauge, has came off, its still connected to the manifold, but it has came off at the other end, i pulled it and it came from behind the drivers guard.. so while ive had my guard off today, i have been trying to reconnect this, but i cannot find anywere it goes?, can some one lend a hand to were this connects back.. thanx

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan · Posted

      So, version 4 intake is on its way I was looking at these a while ago but at around $200 or more it was a little pricey for something that might not work, but, I had it in my watch list, but, I got a message saying it was on special, and I had a code thingie to use, it eventually came in at $120 delivered, so BAM, BUY NOW.....LOL I'll need to have a look when it arrives but I feel it will "look" better than what I currently have, as it comes with a PCV fitting, so I will be able to get rid of the alloy pipe that goes to the throttle body with the PCV fitting  Well, that's what the voices in my head are telling me  Oh, and this happened today Yeap, it was a Trojan, and it was cheap, so I headed back to the hardware store and actually spent a little bit more on a heavy duty,  one that was actually recommended by a plumber mate, a Cyclone one with a fibreglass handle that is actually rated for clay The broken shovel will eventually be "modified" into a short handle shovel
    • MBS206
      What should I do next to hold the head on

      By MBS206 · Posted

      When you pulled it off, there is no signs of blown head gasket? Is it possible you have some other issues going on? Possible cracked blocked? Or do you think it's straight up lifting the head? Did you check what the head was torqued to before pulling it down (To see if possibly they're stretching, or starting to break threads out etc)?
    • jez NF
      The Evolution Of "night Fury"

      By jez NF · Posted

    • Rezz
      Chris' Toyota Mark ii JZX110

      By Rezz · Posted

      Seems like a decent result for a modded JZX110. They are bulky in comparison to the 100 and 90 models (which I'd prefer myself) but they are getting very few and far between here in JP these days. Thanks for the detailed review and the import process into the UK. I also have a car which I'm hoping to export from Japan at some stage so it's good to know if someone from the UK was interested in it. By the way the corrosion underneath is par for the course for cars which were located in/near the mountains or along the Japan sea coastline. They get huge amounts of snow every winter and the sodium chloride is used on the roads. Many cars have some kind of rubber like treatment underneath but they tend to limit it to the wheel arches underbody and fuel tank. Suspension arms and sub-frames will have similar corrosion to your JZX110 which is a common sight. See it all the time and car dealers here generally don't even mention it unless asked.
    • Kinkstaah
      new 1.5 LSD issues/concerns

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      If the sound goes away when you clutch in, the 1.5/2 way diffs are just shit, and you are a normal person. The diff is likely "fine" but driving at anything under 30kmh is a violent horrible experience. It would be exaggerated with solid diff bushings and subframe bushings if you have those.
×
×
  • Create New...