Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey quick question. I have an R34 GTT and wanted to install a kill switch. Other than fuel pump, what is best thing to neutralize with a kill switch?

Looking at the ECU pinout, Terminal 24 is listed as "Ignition Switch (IGN) Signal". Would disabling this prevent the car from starting?

Just wanted to make sure before i go cutting

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/303867-best-system-to-cut-with-kill-switch/
Share on other sites

Hey quick question. I have an R34 GTT and wanted to install a kill switch. Other than fuel pump, what is best thing to neutralize with a kill switch?

Looking at the ECU pinout, Terminal 24 is listed as "Ignition Switch (IGN) Signal". Would disabling this prevent the car from starting?

Just wanted to make sure before i go cutting

Cheers

I prefer to neutralize crims before entry into the car. but wont detail my alarm points here

really you could stop fuel

stop power

stop coil spark

stop tires from rolling, remove shifter, steering wheels but in the end the car will still get pinched by a pro

if you need to ask what it controls you might not be able to interface a alarm properly... ?????? and frying a ECU isnt cheap,, but the car will be neutralized then..lol

I prefer to neutralize crims before entry into the car. but wont detail my alarm points here

really you could stop fuel

stop power

stop coil spark

stop tires from rolling, remove shifter, steering wheels but in the end the car will still get pinched by a pro

if you need to ask what it controls you might not be able to interface a alarm properly... ?????? and frying a ECU isnt cheap,, but the car will be neutralized then..lol

Neutralize them before they enter the car? What have you got? Hidden flame throwers? Ahahah

Thanks for the advice but i'm not trying to install an alarm. I'm just trying to install a simple kill switch until i can afford to have a proper alarm system installed. I'm hesitant to cut the fuel pump since the car will still run for a bit. I could cut the coil if that's better but it means i have to run wire into the engine bay. If it's better than cutting IGN feed to the ECU then i'll do it.

Just trying to make it easier for me to sleep at night while i wait for my next pay day.

the car will not run for a bit...

about 2-3 seconds under load.

as for cutting the coil outside - why bother. that makes it SO easy to locate and bypass.

do something trick with a relay or two on a few key circuits. far better. I have a self arming circuit that would do the trick but by the sound of you (no offence) I do not think you have a grasp on electronics so trying to explain it would be hard.

I have a big book of relays somewhere (troy if you have the ME mag book I'm talking about send this guy a copy.) flick me an email addy and I'll toss it your way.plenty of kill circuits in it.

Edited by Chris Rogers
Neutralize them before they enter the car? What have you got? Hidden flame throwers? Ahahah

Thanks for the advice but i'm not trying to install an alarm. I'm just trying to install a simple kill switch until i can afford to have a proper alarm system installed. I'm hesitant to cut the fuel pump since the car will still run for a bit. I could cut the coil if that's better but it means i have to run wire into the engine bay. If it's better than cutting IGN feed to the ECU then i'll do it.

Just trying to make it easier for me to sleep at night while i wait for my next pay day.

disclaimer

I'm not held responsible for any failed attempts to wire the car properly..lol but this might help you

ok then , try a cheap club to deter, dont park it in unsafe area for a long time, hide all items in sight, and then you can use the "clutch in" wire for a simple circuit cut.. if its a manual, or the auto box neutral safety switch , you can hide a switch under the carpet or to stop them until you get a proper alarm,

a crim wont know how to start it quickly if it acts like a slightly dead battery and jump start wont work either.

use a wire that isnt neon and tie it up clean to hide it.

if you can get your head around that if not visit a sparky or shop who can, dont just cut wires willy nilly

the car will not run for a bit...

about 2-3 seconds under load.

as for cutting the coil outside - why bother. that makes it SO easy to locate and bypass.

do something trick with a relay or two on a few key circuits. far better. I have a self arming circuit that would do the trick but by the sound of you (no offence) I do not think you have a grasp on electronics so trying to explain it would be hard.

I have a big book of relays somewhere (troy if you have the ME mag book I'm talking about send this guy a copy.) flick me an email addy and I'll toss it your way.plenty of kill circuits in it.

No offence taken. When i did my engine conversion in my old silvia, it took me 1 and a half days to have all the mechanical parts swapped out and in. Then another 6 days to figure out the wiring. lol. So i'm well aware of my weaknesses.

As for the book, that sounds awesome. Just describing it might go over my head, but if i have a diagram to go off i'm perfectly capable. I'll PM you my e-mail.

Cheers

the best thing about a kill switch is that while the car thief is searching for it in the car it gives him time to think of how he's going to trash the car.

kill switches offer no protection, arent insurance approved and usually take less than a minute to find in any car.

it is without a doubt one of the most pointless things you can do.

the best thing about a kill switch is that while the car thief is searching for it in the car it gives him time to think of how he's going to trash the car.

kill switches offer no protection, arent insurance approved and usually take less than a minute to find in any car.

it is without a doubt one of the most pointless things you can do.

bet you couldnt find 1 I installed in 30min , hell maybe you would never find it, very very stealth and high tech setup

but by that point you would end up slicing the seats up, and throwing bricks through the windows before setting fire to it.

kinda a double edge sword, not getting it they trash it, getting it they trash it(unless you track then thru GPS to the there front door...lol)

I've been told also never to have kill switches located anywhere within reach of the driver's seat as someone with an idea of what they are doing will feel around in the obvious spots.

I'm not that paranoid, but decent brand immobiliser + alarm + heavy duty club lock, combined with a smart attitude about when and where to leave it do me fine IMO, cause either way they will either go to the extreme of putting it on a truck or trashing it.

I have heard stories of HDT owners using chains bolted to the floor and then through the rims which have locknuts fitted lol.

  • 2 weeks later...
the best thing about a kill switch is that while the car thief is searching for it in the car it gives him time to think of how he's going to trash the car.

kill switches offer no protection, arent insurance approved and usually take less than a minute to find in any car.

it is without a doubt one of the most pointless things you can do.

Thats rubbish!

Kill switches offer fantastic protection for the average car thief that only knows how to rip an ignition barrel off and screwdriver start it.

BUT, i agree with them being easy to find. If your going to do it, you have to do it well. Me personally dont put them anywhere near the dash.

Thats rubbish!

Kill switches offer fantastic protection for the average car thief that only knows how to rip an ignition barrel off and screwdriver start it.

BUT, i agree with them being easy to find. If your going to do it, you have to do it well. Me personally dont put them anywhere near the dash.

if they offer such fantastic protection i guess thats why

- no insurance company in the world lists them as an approved form of vehicle immobiliser

- no insurance company in australia will pay on a theft claim for a vehicle with a kill switch only

- the australian design rules relating to car immobilers dont list them at all

- car safe aust recommends against them

and..

since most car thieves are so unskilled how come we here constantly of cars being stolen with such sophisticated alarm systems, multiple alarms or the dodgy kill switch?

So, i stand by my original comment.

they are the most pointless thing you can do to a car to prevent it from being stolen.

And it doesnt really matter where you put them, they are very easy to find and get around.

Maybe your just not thinking outside the box.. who says it has to be a boring standard switch? I had one in a previous car that you couldnt see the switch, and you couldnt access the switch whether you knew exactly where it was or not.

It took a little more than your fingers for it to actually work.. if you get my drift. I wont go into details as its a public forum :P

I was never arguing the fact that they are insurance recognized neither. You'd be mad to have a decent car with no approved protection.

Id say a good 95% of the cars stolen in NZ that i see on the forums, the last line of the post says:

"STOLEN CAR XXX....

Oh, it wasnt alarmed.. i hadnt got around to it yet"

And i CLEARLY stated that its only protection from the dumbass thieves that are more in it for the joyride and the flash subs in the boot.

If the cars nicked with the best alarm ever invented, rigged with GPS and all the shit you can throw at it, then it safe to say the DID know what they were doing wouldnt it?And in those cases, yes, they are a waste of time.

Just like the OEM steering lock, the aftermarket steering locks, and the gearstick/handbrake locks.

These things are all here meerly to slow the thief down, or not try because there is too much for them to do with the possiblilty of being seen/heard/shot at.

Edited by gotRICE?

Oh, and if i leave my car for anything longer than a week in my garage, i remove the coilpack loom from the engine bay all together. Seeing as i dont have the cover, nor the little screws in place. Takes 10 seconds.

Good luck driving a skyline without a coilpack loom!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
    • Actually, I'd say all three are the automatic option. Just the different trim levels. The manual would be RSFS, no? 
×
×
  • Create New...