Jump to content
SAU Community

Im Looking At Buying At Stagea Any Owners Out There Tell Me Abit Bout Them

yellowsubmarine
 Share

Recommended Posts

kidafa Veteran

kidafa

Posted
Posted

where the rust appears over time in EVERY C34v stagea due to shit design theirs so sponges under each wing mirror....

Some one could post up what they have done to rectify this issue that would be great!

yellowsubmarine Collaborator

yellowsubmarine

Posted
  • Author
Posted

shit ay rightio might be a good neg tool against the dealer i found a few i might be looking at next week some one was saying they can appear around the sunroof as well

910trx Proficient

910trx

Posted
Posted (edited)

if you are going to get a c34 get one with twin sunroofs

i test drove a s1 dayz before i bought a s2 stocker - because i wanted tip tronic and the neo

i thought i did not want to bother with a car with sunroofs after spending many years fixing everyone elses so i opted for the s2 i have

as i have no sunroof i can not tell you about them leaking, rusting, damaged by hail

but that very first test drive of a stag with every window open including the roof, the memory still lingers - i now wish i could have that everyday.

and i get very jelous when i see another one - even s1's (but i gots the power) with their roof open on a nice summer avo

*sigh*

but yeah - its fuel consumption not economy, because its a turbo 2.5 pulling a wagon, it needs a bit more aggression on the pedal to make it move in traffic (changes in speed on inclines etc)

the s2 has a better autobox if you go that way and it shifts pretty quick for an auto

i have looked at selling mine to get more cash for a house deposit but i cant - i can not buy anything with the power, features, room, safety, mileage, handling - in stock form - what it has for the same money or a bit more!

just a great value car

Edited by 910trx
pixel8r Mentor

pixel8r

Posted
Posted
did anyone mention the bone china m35 turbo?

All Stagea and Skyline turbos suffer from the same problem. They have a ceramic turbine which at a certain temperature is known to fall to bits.

The reason it is more of a problem in the M35 is due to the M35 running higher boost than the C34 from the factory. From what I've read on here, the RS/RX models run about 11-12psi (I have an RS = ~11.8psi or 0.8bar) whereas the ARX seems to be around 15psi for reasons no one can understand, given that these turbos usually break after being exposed to ~14psi for extended periods. Each turbo's tolerance is different, if you regularly hit max boost it could last years, or days...

12psi should be fine if everything else is in good shape, but you dont know what boost limit it was running in japan, nor do you know how much heat your particular turbo is being exposed to at 12psi (things like intake/ambient temperature can affect this). Its the heat that does the damage, not the boost pressure on its own.

In any case, its very straightforward to replace the standard turbo with a highflow unit which will then outlast the car. It sucks, but once its done its done, and you'll never need to worry again.

mxfly Veteran

mxfly

Posted
Posted

Touch some serious wood my turbo holds a bit longer. After putting in a 3" dump front combo with just 1 hi-flow cat, the pitch on my turbo sounds like Maria Carey, meaning it's spinning faster and harder. But judging by other ppl's experiences, it will probably blow sooner rather than later lol.

yellowsubmarine Collaborator

yellowsubmarine

Posted
  • Author
Posted

i found one in sydney a dealer one ended up talking them down to $14500 from $15900 didnt have any rust bit of a scuff on the side skirt and the rims had gutter rash. apart from that it was pretty good. applying for the loan on wednesday hopefully ill get my first stagea ill let u guys know thanks for the help

post-25975-1264465404_thumb.jpg

pipster11 Grand Master

pipster11

Posted
Posted
i found one in sydney a dealer one ended up talking them down to $14500 from $15900 didnt have any rust bit of a scuff on the side skirt and the rims had gutter rash. apart from that it was pretty good. applying for the loan on wednesday hopefully ill get my first stagea ill let u guys know thanks for the help

that looks sick, need to sort out the 4wd ride height tho

you even have the full dayz body kit and carbon thing in the middle of the front bar

manual or auto?

good luck with the loan

yellowsubmarine Collaborator

yellowsubmarine

Posted
  • Author
Posted
that looks sick, need to sort out the 4wd ride height tho

you even have the full dayz body kit and carbon thing in the middle of the front bar

manual or auto?

good luck with the loan

auto would be nice if its manual

pipster11 Grand Master

pipster11

Posted
Posted
auto would be nice if its manual

you can get a manual for that, private sale tho

knock them down, and let me know if you wanna sell those wheels :)

yellowsubmarine Collaborator

yellowsubmarine

Posted
  • Author
Posted

yeah the offset is mega lol yeah ill neg them abit more when i hear from the bank im so keen to one after test driving them

  • 2 weeks later...
adey88 Collaborator

adey88

Posted
Posted
i found one in sydney a dealer one ended up talking them down to $14500 from $15900 didnt have any rust bit of a scuff on the side skirt and the rims had gutter rash. apart from that it was pretty good. applying for the loan on wednesday hopefully ill get my first stagea ill let u guys know thanks for the help

Read an interesting article in the latest Performance Imports mag about importing stageas into australia... Maybe have a read of it because they talk of a blue stag that had 150xxx kms in japan but ended up selling her with only 60xxx....

hope its not this one for your sake...

horrace Rising Star

horrace

Posted
Posted

I also read that and wondered, also interesting how it was stated most of the odo clocking happens in Australia, i thought it would have been the other way round.

Appealing Proficient

Appealing

Posted
Posted

So did you get it?

If so that's a nice pick-up.... (and I don't mean Ute).

Bayside Blue's are rare, it seems less than 5% were painted that colour. This is assuming that it is original.

Interestingly that one has black side panels behind the rear side windows. Mine are Blue, and most others are too.

Mine is an auto, only thing off std is the exhaust. It's run a 14.9 (with a restrictor and std full boost). And also returned 525km (and wasn't empty) on a full tank! I get over 400 around town, unless I fang it. Then it drops to 360km.

I taken it out on the track a few times, for such a heavy car the handling is fine. You have to drive pretty stupidly on the road to loose it, at least with AWD.

So if you are still dreaming... I'd say go for it, I don't think that you'll be disapointed.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Latest Posts

    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan · Posted

      After using a protractor for an actually accurate assessment of what is required,  and by NOT using my uncalibrated eyeball I worked out I need a 25° silicone bend from the TB ro the MAF, but, my choice was either a 30° or a 23° (23° is a weird spec), so I grabbed the 23° one from Raceworks I also grabbed 1mtr of 3" straight from Just Jap, I needed 350mm, but they only had 300mm, or 1mtr lengths....meh Also ordered a 1/2" hose bulkhead fitting from fleabay, this has a smoothish mushroom looking head (they are designed for below the water line of boats) that will fit inside the bend, the hose bit and threaded bit looks to long, but nothing that a hacksaw cannot fix if required, the hose will then just get jamed on the threaded bit up to the retaining nut Fingers crossed and the unsightly amount of hose clamps will be reduced down to 4 once all the parts arrive 
    • joshuaho96
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      Oil change does not trigger code 21. Code 21 is for coilpacks primary side connection. You can try to clear the code with a battery disconnect, hold down the brake pedal to drain capacitors through the brake lights with the ignition on for 10-15 seconds before you reconnect the battery. I have seen R35 coil conversion permanently cause this code with no ill effects so it might be the resistance it wants to see isn't quite right on one or more coilpacks. Could be inside the ECU, could be the harness, could be a coil. You can test it all if you want or just ignore until the car actually starts misfiring.
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I forgot you have a Nistune ECU. Use Nistune to do all the tests I mentioned instead of faffing with 30+ year old electrical connectors. You can read MAF volts off that too, there are reference values in the service manual to tell you roughly what it should be in different conditions.
    • GTSBoy
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      No. I think it might be the AFM. Hence the use of the terms "swaptronics", which implies the use of swapping out electronics for the purpose of diagnosis. It's about the only way to prove that a small/niggling/whatever problem with an AFM or a CAS or similar is actually caused by that AFM/CAS/whatever. A known good item swapped in that still gives the same problem is likely to be caused somewhere else. They're all the same. Spraying AFMs with cleaner is an each way bet between cleaning it and f**king it.
    • codygrimm27
      Can you mount the ATTESA pump in other locations?

      By codygrimm27 · Posted

      Oh wow! This might actually work amazingly. Do you know the ratio of the diff? I was told the only thing you need to make sure of is if the front & rear diff ratios are the same. Ours is a 4.083 Thanks!
×
×
  • Create New...