Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys just finished my s1.5 > s2 r33 front end conversion.

The problem I'm having is with the foglights.

I went to the wreckers and bought the s2 indicator stalk with foggie switch. I've noticed it has an extra loom with a plug, I'm guessing these are meant to be for the fog lights.

I need to work out a way to connect the foggies to the stalk so that they can run off the stock switch on the stalk. Is this possible and has anyone done this before?

Cheers

Chris.

Edited by LI51CA
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/304194-problem-with-my-s2-conversion/
Share on other sites

I have the same issue (S1.5 to S2 conversion)

Interested in hearing if there's an answer to this.

I am half temped to drill a hole in the back of the ashtray and manually wire up a toggle switch there.

Seems like a rough solution though :P

As you have the S2 indicator stalk (which has the rotary fog light ring switch) all you have to do is plug in the connection from the indicator stalk to the socket hidden under the steering column cover. Then simply install the new stalk where the old one is. In addition to this, you must get hold of the fog light relay and install it into the correct base in the relay box under the bonnet.

You should be able to use the stock indicator wiring and plugs which would do the front indicators and the fog lights, but not sure if the S1 plugs fit S2 lights. Hope this helps!

Edited by S1LV3RTRACKS

Hey mate thanks for the reply!

I already have the stalk installed and hooked up to the blinkers. However, I cant seem to find the socket you mentioned that I need to plug the connection into. Maybe s1 doesn't have it?

And is the relay box the small blck box located on the rear left hand side of the engine bay?

Cheers

Chris

As you have the S2 indicator stalk (which has the rotary fog light ring switch) all you have to do is plug in the connection from the indicator stalk to the socket hidden under the steering column cover. Then simply install the new stalk where the old one is. In addition to this, you must get hold of the fog light relay and install it into the correct base in the relay box under the bonnet.

You should be able to use the stock indicator wiring and plugs which would do the front indicators and the fog lights, but not sure if the S1 plugs fit S2 lights. Hope this helps!

I have attached a picture from a mate's s1.5 R33 which shows you what plug you will be looking for. The car this is from did not have fog lights installed so it was just taped back as in the picture. Perhaps not all s1.5 had this. You have to remove the steering column cover to see this.

And is the relay box the small blck box located on the rear left hand side of the engine bay?

When looking under the bonnet, facing the car you will see a black box on the left hand side (drivers side) behind the washer bottle. Just unclip that and you will find relays in there. If you turn over the lid you should find a diagram of where each relay goes. Strangely the fog light relay was installed and is brown on this car even though there is no stalk switch. I'm sure you can find one from a wrecker.

If you don't have that plug near the steering wheel or a base for the fog light relay in the engine bay, I guess you will need to install a separate switch with its own relay and wiring to get the fog lights up and running. If you are not sure yourself about doing such a job, an auto electrician would be able to help you. They may be able to even use the stock stalk switch so you still keep that factory feel.

post-69561-1263819620_thumb.jpg

is there a difference between the series 1 and 2 stalk? my series 1 has the fog light switch on the stalk?

or are you talking about the going from the switch on the center console to the switch on the stalk

err my s1.5 didn't come with a switch on the stalk so I put in a s2 stalk.

is there a difference between the series 1 and 2 stalk? my series 1 has the fog light switch on the stalk?

or are you talking about the going from the switch on the center console to the switch on the stalk

  • 2 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The powder coating came in at $250 EACH. The TRX rims got a coat of clearcoat on the outside only.    
    • Bit wet, but YUMMY
    • Keeping in mind that I am currently getting flat 10 L/100km on my RB25DET, which means >>500km/tank. I would test this car for vacuum leaks, check codes and AFM signal with NissDataScan as D says, check plugs, do a compression check while they are out.
    • It is hard to be specific half way across the world...but it *seems* like it might have a minor issue. Is the idle stable and does it rev smoothly? I would not expect any pops out of what I am assuming is a standard ECU, standard tune, standard exhaust. You can use Nissan Data Scan to find out exactly what is happening when it runs, the cable/software is reasonably affordable if you are not planning on changing the ECU (which hopefully you are not with an NA skyline) BTW your mileage may not be that far off, these are heavy old tech cars, and being NA might mean you use a heavy foot to keep up with traffic....
    • Hey guys! Y'all are the masters so figured I'd check in on a few items here. - My engine sounds ever-so-slightly more raspy than the other NA RB25s I've listened to. It's barely noticeable but definitely a slightly different sound. - When I back off the throttle at high RPM, I will sometimes get a pop out of the exhaust, assuming this can be diagnosed as misfire. Some history on the car: - Had an exhaust leak in auction sheet but was claimed to be fixed by seller (bought from USA importer).  - Car's coil packs and sparks were replaced when it was sold to me, but unsure on what the gap is and whether the coil packs are correct.  - A prior mechanic had misdiagnosed a pilot or throwout bearing sound as LSPI/detonation. Had played with timing a bit, pops/raspy sound of engine just got worse. Got timing reset. - Had failed emissions a few times. First time went in as is, failed. Second time, replaced cat, still failed, running rich as hell. Third time replaced o2 sensor, passed. Car still smells gassy though. - Timing belt and valve cover gasket also replaced.  - Gas mileage is... low. about 350-400K per tank.  Any idea if I'm having any serious issues here or does this all sound like normal old NA RB stuff and I'm fine to drive it with the pops/slightly raspy engine? If it'll help, I can get drop a video of the sound of the engine.
×
×
  • Create New...