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Clutch Assembly Broken How To Remove?

bad_rb20
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bad_rb20 Community Regular

bad_rb20

Posted
Posted

hi all it seems like i've snapped the connection to the plate on the firewall on the clutch assembly on my 32 gtst so the clutch pedal is over the shop so it wont engage. apprently is a common fault. had alook and cant work out how to take the whole plate and clutch assembly out. any instruction/advice or experience would be greatly appreciated. is it normal to just weld it back on?

R33_NICK Community Regular

R33_NICK

Posted
Posted

hey mate, had this happen to me just recently as well tho i was lucky the whole thing didnt come off completely and hold the assembly on with a coat hanger while getting it fixed (dont do this, not recommended but had no choice since its my daily driver). what the problem was, one of your spotwelds on the bracket might have snapped, a common problem if you have a heavy duty clutch or any clutch that has higher clamping force than standard. cheapest solution is to get it rewelded around the spotwelds and add a bit more weld to reinforce it on the way which is what i did. becareful where you weld or the material will get in the way when reinstalling back to the firewall. but if your willing to spend a bit more, the nismo solution as Elite racing mentioned is the best way to go as it doesnt cost much more than da factory one ($110 quoted for standard Nissan).

blind_elk Grand Master

blind_elk

Posted
Posted

The assembly is held in by the same 3 bolts that hold the clutch master cylinder in place, and a bolt up behind the instrument panel (I found it easiest to remove the instrument panel to get at that one).

The Dan Grand Master

The Dan

Posted
Posted

You shouldn't need to remove the instrument panel. A 9-12 inch 3/8 drive extension and 12mm socket should get it quite easily from underneath. You just have to worm it past a couple of wires.

But as said above. That one and the two that hold the clutch master cylinder on and it's away. Leave the pedal in place as it's gonna come out with the rest of it.

I recommend getting the Nismo one as it might save you a couple of dollars to get it welded but I have found that in around 50% of the time the metal will crack again within 12 months right next to where it was welded. It's much better to replace it with the already reinforced one and then forget about it.

The Dan Grand Master

The Dan

Posted
Posted

Contact Link International on 07 3382 5000.

They are in Brisbane. Or I think Unique Auto Sports is the Nismo dealer down south.

Part number for R32 is - N-46550-RS580 Retail price is $148 but depending on who you buy it from, you can get them cheaper. They keep them on the shelf usually.

Chibs Community Regular

Chibs

Posted
Posted

Hey guys,

Think this is whats happened to me... Except i am leaking transmission fluid from under the car... Car starts and i can put it in gear when the car is off but cant when it is turned on.... Its parked under my workplace and i need to get it out! any temp fix to get it moving back home?

I have turned the car off put it in gear then tried to turn it back on but it wouldnt turn on

Any help is appreciated

Cheers!

The Dan Grand Master

The Dan

Posted
Posted
Hey guys,

Think this is whats happened to me... Except i am leaking transmission fluid from under the car... Car starts and i can put it in gear when the car is off but cant when it is turned on.... Its parked under my workplace and i need to get it out! any temp fix to get it moving back home?

I have turned the car off put it in gear then tried to turn it back on but it wouldnt turn on

Any help is appreciated

Cheers!

Yes, you need to replace the clutch slave cylinder and/or the master cylinder. Considering there is fluid under the car, I would start with the slave cylinder.

Ring Nissan and buy it genuine. They cost around $100 for the R33 one. Dunno what the 32 one costs.

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