Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

What's the go with that? Never seen that personally.

It has to do with the drum speed and the speed of the car. The dyno plots the graph vs drum speed and then when you print it vs engine speed, apparently you can get a variation in the graph. Kinda like when you see lines move backwards on the dynographs we see here when the operator backs off.

Usually it has to do with automatic torque converters giving feedback when they lockup but considering this is a manual, I would say probably clutch slip , wheel spin, or some sort of RPM interference with the graph.

Dynojet reckon if you plotted the graph on HP vs drum speed, it would be a smooth line

MP1 was the metallic purple on R33 GTR's and limited edition GTSt's. MP2 was the metallic with flake on R34's and MP3 was the chameleon purple/orange colour on R34's.

The midnight purple paint codes are LP not MP lol LP1 is the r32 colour. Lp2 is r33 midnight purple. And lp3 is the crazy r34 charmeleon colour.

It has to do with the drum speed and the speed of the car. The dyno plots the graph vs drum speed and then when you print it vs engine speed, apparently you can get a variation in the graph. Kinda like when you see lines move backwards on the dynographs we see here when the operator backs off.

Usually it has to do with automatic torque converters giving feedback when they lockup but considering this is a manual, I would say probably clutch slip , wheel spin, or some sort of RPM interference with the graph.

Dynojet reckon if you plotted the graph on HP vs drum speed, it would be a smooth line

Ahh fair enough, cheers man.

If it's getting kicked out of the States, what's the chances it's gonna be allowed here lol.

very good actually. the US rules have nothing to do with australia and it's perfectly legal to import, comply and register R33 GTRs in every state in australia...

It says 505 awhp in the link.

And very laggy too .. full boost over 5000?

What's with the dyno finishing at 7250

The US has had a witch hunt on for skylines for a while because most if not all came thru that shonky west coast outfit. Seemed like a typically disproportionate response. Some stuff, they don't care. Other stuff they make a federal case out of.

pity there's no indicative prices on there, I guess they will end up heading north to Canada. where they hopefully will have some suspension mods lol.

I doubt that car can be imported into Australia given the amount of mods on it, unless someone's willing to convert it back to stock to comply it and then bolt the mods back on.

Realistically speaking there's far better GTRs in Aus and Japan available, especially for the price, as you'll be paying American Wank Factor Tax (similar to Takumi Tax on AE86's) and Australian Import Taxes and Duties.

Also Canoodlians can only import cars that are 15 years or older, which means that GTR might be a bit hit or miss.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Has equal chance of cleaning an AFM and f**king an AFM. I think you can work out what happened. When the Hitachi ECU sees the AFM die and goes into the associated limp mode, then it will start and run just fine, because it ignores the AFM and just runs on idle maps that will do what it needs to get it going. But there is no proper load signal, so that's about all it can do. My suggestion? If you don't want to go full aftermaket ECU, then get some R35 GTR AFM cards and some housings to put them in, in the stock location, and Nistune the ECU. Better to do a good upgrade than just replace shitty 40 year old tech with the same 40 year old tech.
    • So my car was recently having trouble starting on initial crank, I would need to feather the gas for it to start up but besides that it would start and run fine. So I clicked the idle air control valve (with throttle body cleaner) and cleaned the MAF sensors (with MAF cleaner). The start up issue was fixed and now the car turns over without the assist of the throttle, but the car is in limp mode and wont rev past 2.5k RPM. From what I understand the IACV would not put the car in limp mode, so I am to believe it is the MAF sensors, but it was running fine before and now I cant get it out of limp mode. I cleaned the MAF made sure the o rings were seated properly. Made sure the cables were plugged in properly, the cables also both read the same voltage. Does anybody know why this is or what could be causing this or how to get it out of limp mode?
    • Ooo I might actually come and bring the kids, however will leave the shit box home and take the daily
    • Thanks. Yeah I realised that there's no way I'd be able to cover the holes with the filler, it would just fall through. Thanks again @GTSBoy!
    • That was the reason I asked. If you were going to be fully bodge spec, then that type of filler is the extreme bodge way to fill a large gap. But seeing as you're going to use glass sheet, I would only use that fibre reinforced filler if there are places that need a "bit more" after you've finished laying in the sheet. Which, ideally, you wouldn't. You might use a blob of it underneath the sheet, if you need to provide some support from under to keep the level of your sheet repair up as high as it needs to be, to minimise the amount of filler you need on top. Even though you're going bodge spec here, using glass instead of metal, the same rules apply wrt not having half inch deep filler on the top of the repair. Thick filler always ends up shitting the bed earlier than thin filler.
×
×
  • Create New...