Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ive heard something about the solder inside of them going dry or something like that, then what happens it dosent let the power through .

apparently if you pull them apart and resolder them it sometimes gets them working. not to sure if its true just something i heard from a mate. Mines currently not working to how much did nissan qoute you for a new one ?

Ive heard something about the solder inside of them going dry or something like that, then what happens it dosent let the power through .

apparently if you pull them apart and resolder them it sometimes gets them working. not to sure if its true just something i heard from a mate. Mines currently not working to how much did nissan qoute you for a new one ?

$280 brand new LOOL its the smallest of little things, I cant beleive how much they go for. All i can say is GTR

Try wreckers. I was looking for the plastic surround cause mine had a whole cut above the clock for a boost controller. I lucked out and got a surround and a working clock for $40!!

Wow you got lucky? how long ago was this? i would think there all gone by now.. although i have never tried a wrecker only thinking that there will be no luck

Very common problem it seems. Mine doesnt work either and it pisses you off. I am going to crack it open this weekend and try a re-solder. Will let you know how I go. I even remember something about if you punch too much boost through your car it deliberately fries the clock so the Nissan dealership knows that you have tampered with the boost and voids warranty. Probably a myth though because it sounds far-fetched.

  • Haha 1
Very common problem it seems. Mine doesnt work either and it pisses you off. I am going to crack it open this weekend and try a re-solder. Will let you know how I go. I even remember something about if you punch too much boost through your car it deliberately fries the clock so the Nissan dealership knows that you have tampered with the boost and voids warranty. Probably a myth though because it sounds far-fetched.

Yeh that does sound about funny i doubt they would do that, i mean that car was worth over 100 grand when it came out i would think they wouldnt care what you do with it after its gone. PLEASE let me know as i have the dash pulled apart and i would like to figure it out before i put it back together this weekend. thanks bud

Wow you got lucky? how long ago was this? i would think there all gone by now.. although i have never tried a wrecker only thinking that there will be no luck

Only about a month or so ago. Just ring up places that bring half cuts in. Thats what i did, and yep a bit of luck :-)

have this exact problem as well, although mine comes and goes as it pleases. very annoying because whenever i want to know the time its off and every other time its on....

would also like to know if anyone is able to fix it and what part needs soldering

Yeah, mine too. tried resoldering my old one but it still had a mind of its own. Purchased another surround which came with a clock, bit it too has failed. Same fault. Works sometime, then stops. It does keep the time so its a display fault or accessory power related problem. I give up on these.

have this exact problem as well, although mine comes and goes as it pleases. very annoying because whenever i want to know the time its off and every other time its on....

would also like to know if anyone is able to fix it and what part needs soldering

  • 5 months later...

Mines packed it in. I suspect the surface mounted IC or the VFD has died, if so, we're all up shit creek.

Does anyone in Melbourne have a working clock that I can use for testing and try figure out what's wrong with them?

I've replaced the usual suspects, the surface mounted 10uF capacitors and it didn't fix it. I want to compare a dead and working one side by side and establish if they can be repaired.

Cheers

Nevermind, I've found and fixed the problem. I saw in another thread people were saying the clock is detecting overboost, haha what a load of shit.

Anyway, there are four surface mount 30 ohm resistors in series to dissipate some heat under the Vacuum Fluorescent Lamp, they dry joint. Very risky to remove the VFL since it's glass and painfully easy to break. If you chip it, it's dead....

Took a couple of hours but I've fixed it, including the unnecessary removal of the SM IC to find out what it was (OKI M5547, datasheet here if anyone wants it: http://www.alldatasheet.com/view.jsp?Searchword=M5547 )

Hope it gets a few of you out of trouble :bunny:

post-371-1278219323_thumb.jpg

post-371-1278219331_thumb.jpg

post-371-1278219337_thumb.jpg

post-371-1278219346_thumb.jpg

post-371-1278219352_thumb.jpg

post-371-1278219358_thumb.jpg

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 7 months later...

Nevermind, I've found and fixed the problem. I saw in another thread people were saying the clock is detecting overboost, haha what a load of shit.

Anyway, there are four surface mount 30 ohm resistors in series to dissipate some heat under the Vacuum Fluorescent Lamp, they dry joint. Very risky to remove the VFL since it's glass and painfully easy to break. If you chip it, it's dead....

Took a couple of hours but I've fixed it, including the unnecessary removal of the SM IC to find out what it was (OKI M5547, datasheet here if anyone wants it: http://www.alldatasheet.com/view.jsp?Searchword=M5547 )

Hope it gets a few of you out of trouble :bunny:

How hard is it to get the clock out? And is there a tutorial on this? Would love to take my clock apart but not game until I can see it step by step... If you could make a quick one that would be awesome!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
    • I'm not going to recommend an EBC pad. I don't like them. Just about anything else would suit me better. I've been using Intima pads for a while now.
    • Agreed, and in particular the earth strap that should go from the subframe to the chassis but it often broken or left off. There is a section in the R32 workshop manual you can follow for troubleshooting if you don't see anything suspicious, and depending where you are (there is no location on your user profile) you should be able to get your hands on a second hand replacement unit still if needed
    • Yeah they mention as a R34 for 2.5 Turbo...but then again thos "small" were also for R34 by that different site. But i look into it and that 310mm EBC is for R34 GTT. And by those you linked the specs are the same 🙂    EDIT: I found these on one site here: DBA 4000 series T3 DBA42304S They are 310mm...and it says are for R34GTT...are there good? EDIT2: ok they have pads too.  What "color" should i get for street use? I dont want/need some noisy ones...(and if they are not that dusty that is good too)
×
×
  • Create New...