Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys,

Just thought I would link you to my car on the dyno at Hyperdrive.

Just wanted to say thanks to Oz and Cem for all the hard work they have put into my car.

Also thanks to Andrew at Hyperdrive for doing such a great job on the tune and looking after me.

:)

Also what oil cooler kit would you recommend me buying and from where?

I would like one before I do a track day.....! :D

Cheers,

Ken

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/304856-dyno-hyperdrive/
Share on other sites

Well done man, that thing is beasty!

What plans have you got for it in the future?

Thanks Martin!

Not sure but I only wanted 350 out if it at the start but I got 400 so im happy (at the moment) haha....

I will take it to the drags soon and im thinking of joining SAUWA but I don't seem to find the time to even hit the drags :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/304856-dyno-hyperdrive/#findComment-5046961
Share on other sites

Nice one mate :) Love that thing, really do, you've put so much work into it, has to be the cleanest R34 I have seen in a LONG time.

Now get your mate to buy my GTR.......... ;)

Thanks Chris :D

No your keeping the gtr, its mint!

How dare you try to sell it haha :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/304856-dyno-hyperdrive/#findComment-5047241
Share on other sites

Nice. Hyperdrive do great work and Andy is a champ.

Is yours external or internal and is it 0.82?

You got to love the gt3076r i couldnt be happpiers with mine. I just wish i had a 3litre

Edited by Pattygtst
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/304856-dyno-hyperdrive/#findComment-5047433
Share on other sites

That's a sweet achievement mate, especially on Hyperdrives roller.

Thanks Clint, yeah hyperdrives dyno is harsh...

I was thinking of going All Star for a power run on the Hubs and getting a better looking dyno graph...

But thats being a hp fan boy haha ;)

Nice. Hyperdrive do great work and Andy is a champ.

Is yours external or internal and is it 0.82?

You got to love the gt3076r i couldnt be happpiers with mine. I just wish i had a 3litre

Mine is internal but im using cams with 17psi from a GT3076 so it works well.

I went for internal to keep it street friendly :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/304856-dyno-hyperdrive/#findComment-5047461
Share on other sites

Mine is internal but im using cams with 17psi from a GT3076 so it works well.

I went for internal to keep it street friendly :rofl2:

I have same turbo but external gate for my 34 sedan, also have tomei cams , greddy plenum , 6 boost with 50mm trust gate .. Andy will tune it once i done all the fab work

Hey just as a matter of interest, whats this thing like on petrol?

LOL choose 1 .. power or fuel economy :domokun:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/304856-dyno-hyperdrive/#findComment-5049033
Share on other sites

Hey just as a matter of interest, whats this thing like on petrol?

Its actually not to bad.. but it really depends how you drive.

When I just had the basic bolt on mods with a tune I was pulling 400-410 on full tank (BP Ultimate 98).

Right now I average about 370-380 on a full tank but like I said really depends how you drive the car :domokun:

I have same turbo but external gate for my 34 sedan, also have tomei cams , greddy plenum , 6 boost with 50mm trust gate .. Andy will tune it once i done all the fab work

Nice, with the external gate you will be able to boost it much harder.. Engine Stock internals? Just the cams done?

Also I would like a greddy plenum, that is my next engine mod... Makes the engine bay look like SEX :rofl2:

Edited by KEN-R34
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/304856-dyno-hyperdrive/#findComment-5049065
Share on other sites

LOL choose 1 .. power or fuel economy :domokun:

Lol yeh i know its not going to be efficient, i just wanted to know how much he gets to a tank driving like he usually does.

Just to be the devils advocate, i know of a certain eco car that does 0-60 in 2.5 seconds. The Shelby Ultimate Aero EV has 1000hp, 800lb-ft of torque, and gets 400-500kms out of a charge. Absolutely no petrol involved :rofl2:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/304856-dyno-hyperdrive/#findComment-5049074
Share on other sites

Nice, with the external gate you will be able to boost it much harder.. Engine Stock internals? Just the cams done?

Also I would like a greddy plenum, that is my next engine mod... Makes the engine bay look like SEX :domokun:

Im only after 400 . Neo in my 31 has greddy plenum on it , from throttle body to cooler the pipe is 300ish long :rofl2:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/304856-dyno-hyperdrive/#findComment-5049168
Share on other sites

The 'Fuel Economy & Hippies' forum is that way..

lol...

Im only after 400 . Neo in my 31 has greddy plenum on it , from throttle body to cooler the pipe is 300ish long :P

You will make 400 easy on your 34.

Going for 400+ RB25 with stock internals is a bit risky but then again depends how you drive it.

Your 34 is a track car right? Your going to give it a good thrash most of the time :(

How man ks has your neo done?

I would like to know how long your engine lasts with 400 usage on the track.

Don't mean that in a bad way at all.... could last a very long time who knows.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/304856-dyno-hyperdrive/#findComment-5049293
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I did end up getting it sorted, as GTSBoy said, there was a corroded connection and wire that needed to be replaced. I ended up taking out the light assembly, giving everything a good clean and re-soldered the old joints, and it came out good.
    • Wow, thanks for your help guys 🙏. I really appreciate it. Thanks @Rezz, if i fail finding any new or used, full or partial set of original Stage carpets i will come back to you for sure 😉 Explenation is right there, i just missed it 🤦‍♂️. Thanks for pointing out. @soviet_merlin in the meantime, I received a reply from nengun, and i quote: "Thanks for your message and interest in Nengun. KG4900 is for the full set of floor mats, while KG4911 is only the Driver's Floor Mat. FR, RH means Front Right Hand Side. All the Full Set options are now discontinued. However, the Driver's Floor Mat options are still available according to the latest information available to us. We do not know what the differences would be, but if you only want the one mat, we can certainly see what we can find out for you". Interesting. It seems they still have some "new old stock" that Duncan mentioned 🤔. I wonder if they can provide any photos......And i also just realized that amayama have G4900 sets. I'm tempted too. 
    • Any update on this one? did you manage to get it fixed?    i'm having the same issue with my r34 and i believe its to do with the smart entry (keyless) control module but cant be sure without forking out to get a replacement  
    • So this being my first contribution to the SAU forums, I'd like to present and show how I had to solve probably one of the most annoying fixes on any car I've owned: replacing a speedometer (or "speedo") sensor on my newly acquired Series 1 Stagea 260RS Autech Version. I'm simply documenting how I went about to fix this issue, and as I understand it is relatively rare to happen to this generation of cars, it is a gigantic PITA so I hope this helps serve as reference to anyone else who may encounter this issue. NOTE: Although I say this is meant for the 260RS, because the gearbox/drivetrain is shared with the R33 GTR with the 5-speed manual, the application should be exactly the same. Background So after driving my new-to-me Stagea for about 1500km, one night while driving home the speedometer and odometer suddenly stopped working. No clunking noise, no indication something was broken, the speedometer would just stop reading anything and the odometer stopped going up. This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if something was binding the shaft from rotating properly. I got absolutely no voltage reading out of the sensor no matter how fast I turned the shaft. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
    • So this being my first contribution to the SAU forums, I'd like to present and show how I had to solve probably one of the most annoying fixes on any car I've owned: replacing a speedometer (or "speedo") sensor on my newly acquired Series 1 Stagea 260RS Autech Version. I'm simply documenting how I went about to fix this issue, and as I understand it is relatively rare to happen to this generation of cars, it is a gigantic PITA so I hope this helps serve as reference to anyone else who may encounter this issue. NOTE: Although I say this is meant for the 260RS, because the gearbox/drivetrain is shared with the R33 GTR with the 5-speed manual, the application should be exactly the same. Background So after driving my new-to-me Stagea for about 1500km, one night while driving home the speedometer and odometer suddenly stopped working. No clunking noise, no indication something was broken, the speedometer would just stop reading anything and the odometer stopped going up. This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if shttps://imgur.com/6TQCG3xomething was binding the shaft from rotating properly. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
×
×
  • Create New...