Stagea Love Day

[kidafa]

Hi All,

My cars up for oil and filter in 400k's so tomorrow ive decided ill spend a bit of time with it and the tools.... Going to do a few bits and pieces and my mine query was who runs standard plugs and who runs gold series or platinum's? I've currently got gold series that were put in 50,000 ago. Going to pull one of them out in a bit to have a look and see how they are coping. I must admit I do like not having to change plugs every service!

What Im planning to do:

• Oil
  
• Oil filter
  
• Fuel filter (havnt done it in 40k)
  
• Brake fluid
  
• Front pads, Maybe rears
  
• Rotor clean
  
• Clean FMIC core
  
• Spark plugs?
  
• Wheel rotation
  
• Underbody check
  
• Grease door hinges and sun roofs
  
• Fluid level/color check
  
• Data scan and reset self learn
  

So anyone got an other recommendations? 02 sensor was done 40,000 ago. Sorry if its a useless boring thread, im hoping it will keep me entertained at work today

[beaugus]

The other half and I serviced our Stagea a couple of weeks ago (did an 80k service) and we pretty much covered everything you've mentioned here + our all our gear oils. Wasn't cheap but like I convinced the other half its better knowing the stuff is changed / replaced when we do it then we have a good idea of when it really needs doing next.

Actually have to make mention that cleaning the intercooler out had some surprising effect on our Stagea, we pretty much took all the piping + parts out and gave everything a total clean over including the air flow meter anyway, we always had a bit of smoke out of the exhaust at start up and even during the warming up period as we drove out and since cleaning the induction side out we've never had any smoke again so big plus for that.

We debated about doing our O2 sensor as well but since we were pretty pedantic about what we replace in the car we really wanted to only consider genuine (for gaskets and what not) and oil's we pretty much used everything from Motul and Redline stuff so by the time we added up how much everything had cost us to date well, adding an extra $190 for an 02 sensor pushed our service budget to almost $600 in parts alone.

Thank god we've got our own workshop hoist and service tools because we saved a bit doing the work ourselves.

[kidafa]

Ive done the diffs and transfer cases 40k ago and when I did them they were clean so no need to worry about them

Ohh and its been shift kitted and trans serviced less than 5,000 ago :-)

Considering an attesa oil change

[pipster11]

i did the i/c clean yesterday and it was an absolute bitch to get to

run copper plugs and change them every 10,000kms - copper give the best spark of any material

when you go to get them ask for the code but make sure it doesn't have -11 at the end (this gives you a plug pre gapped to 0.8mm, good for ageing coilpacks)

what about air filter?

[kidafa]

Changing plugs every 10,000? I can think of alot more enjoyable things to do with my time ;-)

Notice any improvement once you cleaned the ic vale? Why did you clean it?

the bit you said about the code and -11 doesnt make sense mate

Airfilter will be getting a wash yes

[beaugus]

He's referring to the part number of the NGK spark plugs, the part number by the NGK book is: PFR6G-11.

Meaning the plug gap is 1.1 and the point I believe he's trying to get across is there is an alternate plug set available which the gap is 0.8 (more suitable for higher than stock boost and/or high speed use)

Theres plenty of myths and tons of people will tell you pros and cons for as much as a simple spark plug, personally the choice is simple stick with a good brand, most japanese cars are either NGK or Denso spark plugs, copper plugs are cheaper and most people say they provide a better spark than the precious metal alternatives but at the end of the day if 10,000KM plug changing isn't your thing and a budget allows for it, theres nothing wrong with the iridium option to get you a longer interval.

[QWK32]

a spark plug code with an 11 at the end of it doesn't mean its gapped to 0.8mm, it means its gapped to 1.1mm. which is the stock nissan recommended gap. i ran 11's with out an issue for a year before changing to 0.8s, with out getting into it to much the smaller gap means the spark can be created easier and more reliably than at 1.1mm, which as Tom said is good for those of us still running the older factory coils. anyway, example of a ngk copper plug commonly used on RB engines

BCPR6ES has a 0.8mm gap

BCPR6ES-11 has a 1.1mm gap

Chris, one thing you haven't listed is to check out the coolant and replace if needed. especially since its the middle of summer and i know SA has been having some killer temps.

Edited January 22, 2010 by QWK32

[kidafa]

Chris, one thing you haven't listed is to check out the coolant and replace if needed. especially since its the middle of summer and i know SA has been having some killer temps.

Fluid level/color check

I need to speak to Tangles about the plug part #

[pipster11]

yeah, sorry guys wasa in a hurry this morning but you managed to decipher what i meant

i'd take the idle gear off and give it a clean out with carby cleaner if you've never done it, will make on and off power much smoother (i need to do mine, just being slack - will probs do it tmrw)

its like the i/c - it will be surprisingly dirty

[kidafa]

Tom,

Can you provide pics of the I/C and the idle gear? and procedures for both

[Tangles]

BCPR6ES has a 0.8mm gap = winnah

[-RBD2-]

chris,i think tom is talking about the aac valve at the back of the plenum,right tom?i cleaned mine out wen i first got my car and it was filthy

[pipster11]

i/c = intercooler

its a bit of a pain to get to but here goes:

1. jack up passenger side of car for easier access

2. undo all the clips for the guard liner, they go all the way to the front of the bar including some bolts too

3. pull the liner out

4. take your airbox out

5. undo the hose clamps that are near the intercooler

6. undo all the brackets that hold the i/c in place, undo from both the body and intercooler (there is one on the very inside of the guard too)

7. hit all the rubber hoses up with some wd40 and take a break

8. remove the bolts from one of the pipes from under where the airbox sits (two bolts on either side of the return pipe)

9. now remove the i/c, just needs wiggling to break the seal on the rubber

10. clean it with degreaser - rinse thoroughly

11. blow it out with air

12. leave it sitting in the sun with the cores running vertically so the water runs out into one of the end tanks

13. blow it out again

14. re-install

15. ?????????????????????????

16. Profit

IAC/Idle Valve/aac

There is a write up on how to do this in the faq thingo, i've got a neo and it looks a bit different, will be doing it later this arvo but i had to drop the gf at work and now everything is too hot

[kidafa]

LOL ok i should have realised that you meant intercooler....

Cleaned my front mount today first time in the 30,000 ive had it on the car. It wasnt too bad but not perfect either.

There are more than two valves that control airflow that need to be cleaned if you pedantic about it. I cant remeber what they are called but yeah, ones covered in the DIY the other isnt. Im sure BENDRS30 will chime in here and have a talk about them as him and i investigated a cold start issue I had a while back....

[KiwiRS4T]

I vote for the copper plugs. I like to see how they are doing at least once a year. I use NGK BCPR7ES but 6 would be OK for street use. No need to stress about the -11 at the end. They are the same plug and you can gap them how you want. Big gap gives bigger spark if your coils are healthy. Smaller gap if your coils are tired and marginal. Use quality synthetic atf for the Atessa.

[kidafa]

Yeah I know what fluid to use for the Atessa just not sure how to bleed it ect and swap it over?

Pulled one plug out on Friday to check and they looked fine.... The ceramic around the electrode was still pretty white and clean.

I've got splitfires but when I do change plugs Ill still run .8mm gap due to increased boost ect....

What a day in the shed I had.... Yet to test drive but should be all good I think. Worst part by far is removing the fuel lines of the fuel filters! On the note of fuel filters I changed that last one less than 40,000 ago and their was a fair bit of dirty shit in it and ive only used bp ultimate or shell v power.

Intercooler core wasnt as oily as I was expecting, it still took a few flushes to come clean.

[pipster11]

Yeah I know what fluid to use for the Atessa just not sure how to bleed it ect and swap it over?

Pulled one plug out on Friday to check and they looked fine.... The ceramic around the electrode was still pretty white and clean.

I've got splitfires but when I do change plugs Ill still run .8mm gap due to increased boost ect....

What a day in the shed I had.... Yet to test drive but should be all good I think. Worst part by far is removing the fuel lines of the fuel filters! On the note of fuel filters I changed that last one less than 40,000 ago and their was a fair bit of dirty shit in it and ive only used bp ultimate or shell v power.

Intercooler core wasnt as oily as I was expecting, it still took a few flushes to come clean.

your not the only one, swapped out one actuator on my step dad's commy and removed one from the otherside of the same car (will get a new one monday and finish it)

i also bought some high temp silicone for my coilpacks (not missing yet but it cant hurt)

and made a pod heat shield for $0.94 - will be making a thread for that one :)

oh, and the fuel filter on a 32 is way worse

[-RBD2-]

i siliconed up my coilpacks last week,cant hurt doing it before they get any worse.plus im a massive tightass and did it on the cheap too,only cost me $0.87 for the silicone,it wont do anything useful,will probably melt.mite start a thread and teach you guys how to do it

[FR33K]

Start a thread on how we can get some silicone for $0.87... gonna need to some for my bucket heat shield... what you think go red on mine... it is the fastest colour...

[-RBD2-]

yeah but red conducts more heat tho aleks,cause red is the color of burning