Jump to content
SAU Community

Anybody Notice All The Camera's On The M4 Between The Toll Booth And Church Street Exit?


Recommended Posts

also if you use google earth or some gps devices they are used to tell you how the traffic is on some main roads

they don't record speed

it's just for traffic monitoring, although it does seem a bit on the obsessive side

i reckon they are there to capture evidence for any accidents that occur (?). don't know why else you'd need so many

I noticed every pole or every second pole has a camera on it :D

Anybody know what it's for? Seems like super overkill x10 to have so many of them

to track stolen SAU cars...

Cam #1 > front number plate

#2 > rear number plate

#3 > d/ckhead behind wheel

#4 > pr/ck sitting next to d/ckhead

#5 > whole of car

#6 > wheels

#7 > front bar 'n lip

#8 > rear bar 'n pods

#9 > side skirts

#10 > G/F in the back seat ?

...dreamin' about the way it should be.

I initially thought it was traffic monitoring too, but every pole or every second pole???, and only in the section between Church Street and the toll booth?... doesn't sound right for plain jane traffic monitoring

im still pissed off about the introduction of these new safety cameras...

yes Shanil...

Formerly "RED LIGHT CAMERA" - now "SAFETY CAMERA AHEAD" by stealth > now a Speed Cam combo

"SAFETY CAMERA AHEAD" - when that light turns 'Amber' ...

a) do I gun it and risk a speeding fine or...

b) do I come to sudden stop and get a cold sweat as I see in the rear vision mirror a big wtf in my rear end????

Perhaps, whilst the general public is getting used to the changeover, I should momentarily Push the Hazard Light button!!!!

I noticed every pole or every second pole has a camera on it :)

Anybody know what it's for? Seems like super overkill x10 to have so many of them

it has been there for years and yes they are there for monitoring traffic and accidents.

and as Terry had said it in his post from number 1 to 10..... ;)

yes Shanil...

Formerly "RED LIGHT CAMERA" - now "SAFETY CAMERA AHEAD" by stealth > now a Speed Cam combo

"SAFETY CAMERA AHEAD" - when that light turns 'Amber' ...

a) do I gun it and risk a speeding fine or...

b) do I come to sudden stop and get a cold sweat as I see in the rear vision mirror a big wtf in my rear end????

Perhaps, whilst the general public is getting used to the changeover, I should momentarily Push the Hazard Light button!!!!

or maybe think about what yor going to do prior to it going amber, thus negating all of the above?

looking more that 15metres ahead = win

or maybe think about what yor going to do prior to it going amber, thus negating all of the above?

looking more that 15metres ahead = win

Hell Yeah!

If people drove properly - ie speed limit and not tailgating there's really no problem.

The amber light gives you enough time to clear the intersection once it turns if your doing the speed limit.

If you see it turn amber and your 50m away then gun it to save a few seconds, then the more fines you get the sooner they get you off the road.

Hell Yeah!

If people drove properly - ie speed limit and not tailgating there's really no problem.

The amber light gives you enough time to clear the intersection once it turns if your doing the speed limit.

If you see it turn amber and your 50m away then gun it to save a few seconds, then the more fines you get the sooner they get you off the road.

Plenty of time? Try driving a truck with 10 T at the back. You sweat your ass off at these intersections as you know you will lock em up if the light goes orange. f*ken bullshit

Plenty of time? Try driving a truck with 10 T at the back. You sweat your ass off at these intersections as you know you will lock em up if the light goes orange. f*ken bullshit

Yeah, trucks might be a diff story with needing more braking distance, don't know.

But my point was that if your doing say 70 in a 70 zone, comming up to the lights and it turns amber on you just as your approaching, there's no need to gun it to 100 to get through there's enough time in the amber.

In my mind I generally anticipate that the light could turn amber at ANY time, so you approach each intersection knowing you may have to stop.

I'm pretty sure there is so many cams there because there is no where to pull over in between those two points on the m4 so if you break down or have an accident they can get someone out to you

Hell Yeah!

If people drove properly - ie speed limit and not tailgating there's really no problem.

The amber light gives you enough time to clear the intersection once it turns if your doing the speed limit.

If you see it turn amber and your 50m away then gun it to save a few seconds, then the more fines you get the sooner they get you off the road.

That will work in an ideal world, tell me where this place is so i can move there?

Plenty of time? Try driving a truck with 10 T at the back. You sweat your ass off at these intersections as you know you will lock em up if the light goes orange. f*ken bullshit

especially at pennant hills road where big semmis carrying anything up to 30t with hot brakes are cruising down a hill at 70km/hr, try stopping that in the 3 seconds the rta expects them to stop in. Truckies are always copping it harder than the rest of us.

If your lucky you can anticipate the traffic lights, but how would you like to be forced to stop at amber only to find an 18 wheeler or more hammering up your ass with the trailer bouncing with locked brakes.

And another rant, whats the deal with the stupid 4 lane county drive at cherrybrook turning into 2 lanes. its an F-ing main road!!!! RTA is being run by knobs

speaking of county drive, the day after the lanes were changed there was a fatal..... where there hasn't been a fatal in 4 years..... go figure

That will work in an ideal world, tell me where this place is so i can move there?

Ideal world yes - so do we start somewhere, or just keep going flat through every intersection hoping every second f*ckwit is lucky enough not to wipe out and kill someone

especially at pennant hills road where big semmis carrying anything up to 30t with hot brakes are cruising down a hill at 70km/hr, try stopping that in the 3 seconds the rta expects them to stop in. Truckies are always copping it harder than the rest of us.

If there was a sharp bend at the end of that road, would you expect the truckie to anticipate this and slow down knowing he has to make the bend or should the truckie continue doing 70 right into the bend then turn the wheel and hope he gets through?

If your lucky you can anticipate the traffic lights, but how would you like to be forced to stop at amber only to find an 18 wheeler or more hammering up your ass with the trailer bouncing with locked brakes.

see above. A truckie more than any other driver should realise what they're driving and drive accordingly. If you can't stop in time then don't "hammer".

Again, yes i know this would be ideal, and my not be real life, but what do we do instead?

Also you, me (and truckies) would probably pass no more than a couple of these on most days, is it really that much to ask to approach that intersection with a bit more caution?

Yeah, trucks might be a diff story with needing more braking distance, don't know.

But my point was that if your doing say 70 in a 70 zone, comming up to the lights and it turns amber on you just as your approaching, there's no need to gun it to 100 to get through there's enough time in the amber.

In my mind I generally anticipate that the light could turn amber at ANY time, so you approach each intersection knowing you may have to stop.

True. All i know is i hate being loaded 10+T (tipper) and approach a traffic light with camera. Lose 3 points and all days earnings in a second. I dont even know weather to go slower than speed limit or do the speed limit while approaching the lights, just to make sure those cheap ass cameras dont snap me up. I dont even pay attention around me, all i do is watch that stupid light. You call that safety? lol I dont think so. Very hard to anticipate. But i guess being in a truck, im in "different cattle of fish".

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • If as it's stalling, the fuel pressure rises, it's saying there's less vacuum in the intake manifold. This is pretty typical of an engine that is slowing down.   While typically is agree it sounds fuel related, it really sounds fuel/air mixture related. Since the whole system has been refurbished, including injectors, pump, etc, it's likely we've altered how well the system is delivering fuel. If someone before you has messed with the IACV because it needed fiddling with as the fuel system was dieing out, we need to readjust it back. Getting things back to factory spec everywhere, is what's going to help the entire system. So if it idles at 400rpm with no IACV, that needs raising. Getting factory air flow back to normal will help us get everything back in spec, and likely help chase down any other issues. Back on IACV, if the base idle (no IACV plugged in) is too far out, it's a lot harder for the ECU to control idle. The IACV duty cycle causes non linear variations in reality. When I've tuned the idle valves in the past, you need to keep it in a relatively narrow window on aftermarket ecus to stop them doing wild dances. It also means if your base idle is too low, the valve needs to open too much, and then the smallest % change ends up being a huge variation.
    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
×
×
  • Create New...