Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey,

got a highflow vl turb with t3 or t4 cartridge and some kind of modified rear housing.

Image0183.jpg

i ran into dramas dummy fitting. ill let pictures explain.

Image0189.jpg

as you can see straight up we have an issue with the dump pipe off on an angle due to the vl turbo mounted horizontal instead of vertical.

now im wondering without making a new dump or modifying the dump can i get it to fit properly.

Image0187.jpg

as you can see if i hold it like so all the oil / water lines will line up, but if i modify the dump and bolt it straight up the oil return is horizontal not vertical.

any ideas... its asif i need to make some kind of t3-t3 90deg piece or if a rb30 turbo manifold would fit im not sure on stud pattern.

any suggestions would be kool, otherwise ill whack the stocker back on.

thanks,

dave

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/305582-trouble-installing-turbo/
Share on other sites

sorry i read it wrong...

have u tried rotating the exhaust housing?

No matter how u rotate the exhaust housing the dump will still stay on the same angle. might need to fabricate a new dump to suit mate.

for the oil feed it should be vertical so just rotate the 2 housings so that you get it in that position then get some braided oil and water lines, you then may have to rotate the turbine housing so you can get your pipe on your snail.

The most costly will be getting a dump pipe made to suit your turbo. probably around $400-$600 from your common exhaust shop.

im gona mod the dump myself. but ill try rotating it all. i knew you could rotate it but i was looking at the dump all the time going wtf !!!. but ill see how i go and then hopefully be able to mod the dump.

as i said this came off a R33 so i have no idea how the dump pipe worked out?

it would have had a custom manifold, possibly a high mount :) thats why the dumps like that

custom maybe, highmount no the dump would then be pointing at the bonnet. if a rb30 turbo manifold fits a rb25 thats what it would of been mounted on.

thanks for help, its on now, and im gona mod the dump on the weekend. factory lines fit, just needed the braided oil line. :down: the first time the rear housing didnt spin, but a whack with a rubber mallet fixed that. :)

if u put a peace inbetween the ex housing and the mani, the turbo would most likly hit the engine mounts when u put it in a car. Mod the dump, should b pritty easy, just cut the pipe off the flange, panel beat it to fit the right way and weld her up : D

if a rb30 turbo manifold fits a rb25 thats what it would of been mounted on.

nope. probs something like a hks cast low mount mani that has the flange facing down.

most important thing is to make sure the oil feed is at the top and drain is at the bottom, as close to vertical as possible

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...