Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

got my set up dynoed yesterday and had a few issues... mainly the good old missfires and then the gate decided to stay stuck open, pulled it apart and cleaned it out and was ok after that.

however its painfully slow to build boost and the boost graph looks like a gradual slope instead of ramping up and staying there. Im running a bleed valve on there atm and im led to believe that an EBC should be the way to go.

however we tested the spring from the HKS gate and its only a 0.6 bar item... not quite the 1 bar one i thought it was. So its quite soft and i dont think that a ebc will cope with running over double the rated spring pressure.

if i got a 1 bar spring, will it ramp up harder? considering the spring is slowly opening now as it builds boost i reckon it will.

target boost is around 1.1 - 1.2 bar

take the vac line off the gate and see when it hits the boost you want, back off as soon as it does tho. if the boost graphs looks good like that then you need a better boost controller, if its still no good then try a firmer spring. i find the profec b good for this stuff, as you can set exactly what boost it allows the gate to see any boost at all, meaning you can keep 0 pressure at the gate all the way up to 1bar if you want.

with good boost control you shouldnt have any trouble running double the rated spring pressure, its far from ideal but it works. i'm holding 22psi perfectly with a 12psi actuator and a profec b

Edited by JonnoHR31

If you put a 1bar spring in there, it will ramp up much harder.

With a 0.6 Bar spring you are more than likely getting gate creep.

I ran 24psi, external gate with a 16psi spring and bleed valve for the other 8psi - worked fine.

However when i was running 14psi using a 7psi spring, i would get massive gate creep even though i was bleeding less.

So without question, you will benefit from a heavier spring. Less work any boost control/valve has to do, the better.

If you want to run 1bar, stick a 1bar spring in there :worship:

next question is where do i get a spring from to suit a HKS gate? cant find any on the usual import sites.

Sell it, very old outdated technology and you can find better 48mm / 50mm external wastegates locally.

The new Turbosmart 50mm is the goods, or the GFB.

If you want something cheaper get a Tial.

haha out dated lol.

yeh im in same dilemma turbo comes on slower then expected im running 1bar spring running 1.4bar boost

seems 2 build slow.. im running no boost controller though im just tightening the allen key screw on top of wastegate to hold it closed longer

any idea if the length of the vacum line can cause the slower boost building?

next question is where do i get a spring from to suit a HKS gate? cant find any on the usual import sites.

try get your spring from these guys http://www.redlineperformance.co.nz/?action=fitting they are in NZ. Daryl young is the guy to speak to. he helped me out with some springs for an old HKS 60mm gate. just get the part number from the HKS website (US or Jap) and give it to him, should be able to help you out

and yes good explanation, "its just a spring and diaphragm" ......... out dated haha???

like i said, go for a drive with the vac line removed. no point buying a heavier spring then having to get an ebc aswell when it doesnt solve your problem. yes it probably will, but test before you buy

HKS springs are colour coded, you will want a yellow one for 16psi, you've probably got a pale blue or white one now???

I'm with you guys, don't see how a WG can be outdated, they are a simple thing and most are all generally pretty much exactly the same except for the bling bling [blue anodising/chrome etc etc]. Spring, diaphragm, and poppet valve!!

Plus if you use SK's formula for WG size, most are too big for my and other gtst applications. I'm doing over 280rwkw and according to SK formula needed a 40mm ie HKS is 40mm. Not saying others don't work, and you can have your 38, 48 or 60mm or whatever, but for optimum efficiency etc its supposed to be 40mm.

I actually got some 1 bar and 1.8 springs made to suit HKS 50mm gates. If you want PM me your wastegate spring Dia. I might be able to help you out with a lot cheaper solution.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I came here to note that is a zener diode too base on the info there. Based on that, I'd also be suspicious that replacing it, and it's likely to do the same. A lot of use cases will see it used as either voltage protection, or to create a cheap but relatively stable fixed voltage supply. That would mean it has seen more voltage than it should, and has gone into voltage melt down. If there is something else in the circuit dumping out higher than it should voltages, that needs to be found too. It's quite likely they're trying to use the Zener to limit the voltage that is hitting through to the transistor beside it, so what ever goes to the zener is likely a signal, and they're using the transistor in that circuit to amplify it. Especially as it seems they've also got a capacitor across the zener. Looks like there is meant to be something "noisy" to that zener, and what ever it was, had a melt down. Looking at that picture, it also looks like there's some solder joints that really need redoing, and it might be worth having the whole board properly inspected.  Unfortunately, without being able to stick a multimeter on it, and start tracing it all out, I'm pretty much at a loss now to help. I don't even believe I have a climate control board from an R33 around here to pull apart and see if any of the circuit appears similar to give some ideas.
    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
    • You don't have an R34 service manual for the body do you? Have found plenty for the engine and drivetrain but nothing else
×
×
  • Create New...