Jump to content
SAU Community

Making A Custom Hard Intake Pipe

l_uk3y

By l_uk3y,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

l_uk3y Proficient

l_uk3y

Posted
Posted

Hey there.

Turbo install is just about finished on my R33 gts-t. Only thing left is reconnect the pipework. Now the Hypergear turbo I am installing has different sized inlet and outlet to the factory turbo. Outlet side is under control. Just want some advice on the inlet to the turbo.

I am considering completely fabbing up a Polished stainless section to connect from the AFM to the Turbo as the factory rubber piece wont fit into place. Of course as part of this I would require welding points on to connect BOV return as well as the other line that connects into the rubber piece. Ive been reading that metal intakes could have issues with compressor surge. Is there anything else I should be aware of? I have very limited space as I am also running the factory airbox.

I guess the other option is to hack apart the factory rubber intake to make it shorter then try and fit a piece of tube in that which a silicon reducer can connect onto to match upto the turbo

To all the people running non factory turbos with diff size inlets. What did you do to get it all reconnected? Would you go for the full metal or adapt the factory rubber (future power level estimated at about 260 odd rwkw give or take)

Cheers.

Luke

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/306268-making-a-custom-hard-intake-pipe/
Share on other sites
89CAL Grand Master

89CAL

Posted
Posted

Sorry its not an aftermarket turbo or anything but this is how mine is setup with BOV return and stock breather. Its a bit hard to see how its all setup but hopefully it helps a bit

Basically has a 45degree silicon joiner off the turbo to the stainless pipe which goes for a little bit then has a slight bend in it and expands from 2.5inch to 3inch. I bought all the pipes off another skyline with the same setup and just altered to fit how i wanted.

image028.jpg

image029.jpg

QWK32 Veteran

QWK32

Posted
Posted (edited)

running the factory airbox is going to make the job a little harder. on mine i just used a 3" 90deg stainless elbow, welded on a nipple for the BOV and oil breather return lines, then had to track down some flex pipe to join the BOV and breather to them, so pretty easy.

edit: i'm using a POD filter setup.

Edited by QWK32
R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted

All you need to ensure is the AFM is as far away from the inlet as possible. This will reduce any issues.

Then just have the BOV plumb back in just after the AFM and you should be ok.

Issue's arise when the custom piping has the AFM closer to the inlet, you can get reversion over the AFM and it can do weird things

TRB-001 Rising Star

TRB-001

Posted
Posted

im dealing with this problem now.

iv decided to do as mentioned earlier, 3inch 90deg metal pipe with bungs welded in for pcv pipe and BOV, then 2x 3inch silicon joiners...

as long as u dont move the airbox and hence the afm at all, ull be fine.

hypergear Grand Master

hypergear

Posted
Posted

No need. easiest way is to insert a 2.5inch metal pipe into the stock intake pipe, then clamp it over to the turbo with a 3inch rubber hose.

But steel intake pipe is perferred. Also do make sure the inside of the pipe is 100% clean before botting it on.

l_uk3y Proficient

l_uk3y

Posted
  • Author
Posted

This is roughly what I am planning at this stage. 3" reducer to match a short piece to connect the factory intake. This will connect me no worries to the turbo. This would be easy with a pod however it appears it will create clearance trouble trying to get it back onto the AFM. Also due to the new turbo being further forward the BOV return line will need to be modified as well to make that work as well.

At this stage it looks like I'll have to chop the rubber intake from just behind the 2 offtakes with enough room to make it clamp then find a couple of metal bends to get me into place. Currently doing a quick search on here and ebay for a spare rubber intake as I dont want to hack up my only one.

Lol. After doing the entire turbo install. This is probably the biggest head mess I've come across. Doesn't help that I can see the finish line.

TRB-001 Rising Star

TRB-001

Posted
Posted
This is roughly what I am planning at this stage. 3" reducer to match a short piece to connect the factory intake. This will connect me no worries to the turbo. This would be easy with a pod however it appears it will create clearance trouble trying to get it back onto the AFM. Also due to the new turbo being further forward the BOV return line will need to be modified as well to make that work as well.

At this stage it looks like I'll have to chop the rubber intake from just behind the 2 offtakes with enough room to make it clamp then find a couple of metal bends to get me into place. Currently doing a quick search on here and ebay for a spare rubber intake as I dont want to hack up my only one.

Lol. After doing the entire turbo install. This is probably the biggest head mess I've come across. Doesn't help that I can see the finish line.

tell me about it, iv done a whole rb30det conversion and sorting something out that still looks somewhat stock is not easy.

l_uk3y Proficient

l_uk3y

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Problem is solved.

Even then it is a very tight fit with the air box due to the angle of the AFM, combined with the pipe from Intercooler to Turbo Exit. Just need to get the PVC version made up in Stainless and I'm set. If I was only using a pod filter it would have been a piece of piss.

neo32 Experienced

neo32

Posted
Posted
Sorry its not an aftermarket turbo or anything but this is how mine is setup with BOV return and stock breather. Its a bit hard to see how its all setup but hopefully it helps a bit

Basically has a 45degree silicon joiner off the turbo to the stainless pipe which goes for a little bit then has a slight bend in it and expands from 2.5inch to 3inch. I bought all the pipes off another skyline with the same setup and just altered to fit how i wanted.

image028.jpg

image029.jpg

is there any issues running the bov before the cooler

boostn0199 Grand Master

boostn0199

Posted
Posted

copy the design of the stock intake pipe and make a metal one and put some nipples on it for the breather and bov return , not a issue runnign stock airbox Im doing it and have no problem making it fit

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Torana Lx Gtr Hatch, Lots Of Pictures

      By MBS206 · Posted

      I'll just leave this with, holy shit, those cars at work are awesome, and this will look wicked!
    • MBS206
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Could you modify this duct so instead it pushes the extra air through the radiator too and not down and out? For temps, I know it's not the greatest idea, but as a bit of a last resort, you could use a very intermittent misting spray onto the front of the coolers/rad. You don't want to be soaking them such that water is dripping off, but a small most on/off so that the water evaporates. That point of it constantly evaporating, rather than being soaked in water, will pull a LOT of heat out of the cooler. I'm literally thinking just the little mist sprayers for a garden from Bunnings. Being in a low humidity climate it will help even more! The other trick if you want to be ghetto is some shade cloth hung in the opening, and keep it wet. Pretty much now it's acting like an evap cooler on a house, but cooling the air you need to use to cool the radiator...   On a topic to think about too though, when air enters through the bumper, is it all nicely ducted from the edges of that opening back at a nice angle, or is it like most cars, and the edge of the opening just stops, and suddenly it's wayyy wider behind that? If it does the later, get it shrouded out at nice angles. When that opening changes too rapidly, it can actually cause a high pressure zone between the front bar and radiator, and limit air flow into that area, which means less air for cooling, as it effectively stalls the air, AND adds to drag...
    • soviet_merlin
      Wheel refurb?

      By soviet_merlin · Posted

      Do you have any before and after photos? That's $200 just for the hydro blasting?
    • fatz
      Beers and skylines Fatz style

      By fatz · Posted

      Yea pedal box and no abs
    • zoomzoom
      WGNC34 Rear springs

      By zoomzoom · Posted

      It doesn't look like there's a lot of options out there these days, and what's out there is performance oriented aftermarket stuff (with the GTR markup) I wonder if there are other cars with similar springs, after all its just a matter of length, diameter and stiffness. Alternatively, I did see coil spacers. Probably not the best option, but could be serviceable too.  
×
×
  • Create New...