Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

just did my gearbox oil change today and heck, might as well take a couple of pictures in case some of you guys are wondering how its being done.

before i continue, you have to bear in mind that ANY oil change can be a VERY dirty, messy and tiring job but think of the satisfaction and money saved. THat's what motivated me in the first place. I also felt that it would help me understand my car better :sly:

anyway... here goes... my FIRST gearbox oil change in my R32

gearbox01.jpg

I needed to get the car high up from the ground so that I will have plenty of room to move around. I thought of car jacks and found these steel ramps at cash converter for only $20!! Each of them holds a maximum weight of 850kg. It holds the car pretty high up off the ground and its great for future use in engine, diff oil change and brake flushing/bleeding as well as some underbody works.

PLEASE do remember to (1) handbrake, (2) get the car in gear and (3) chock the rear wheels of the car.

Recommended equipment:

gearbox02.jpg

Get a LONG wrench for that ALL-SO-IMPORTANT leverage(size 1/2 inch)

gearbox03.jpg

Get a pump and your new gearbox oil ready.

gearbox04.jpg

tools, torchlight, degreaser, rags, hose, vacuum cleaner :)

and NOW, the fun part begins....

when you are done with your warmups and body flexings... get under the car to the gearbox. There is a drain plug on the bottom centre of the gearbox, there is no way you can miss it.

gearbox10.jpg

It is IMPERATIVE that you undo the filler plug FIRST before the drain plug!! If you undo the drain plug first and got all the oil out and then realized that the filler plug is stuck... you can start building a display cabinet for your car :tool:

The drain plug is usually the harder of the 2 to undo... i had a bitch of a time trying to get it out... broke 1 wrench and decided to get the STRONGEST and THICKEST 1/2inch wrench i can find in Repco... the longer the leverage, the easier it is to undo the plug. Another recommendation i had was to undo both plugs just after a drive so that all compartments are still hot... but the downside of this is that you will have to be EXTREMELY careful of the cat, exhaust piping and the gearbox itself becos it will get freaking hot.

make sure you have at least a 5litres and above oil tray for the old oil once the plugs are undone.

gearbox05.jpg

when the old oil is draining from the gearbox, get to work on the 2 plugs.

gearbox07.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/30665-r32-changing-gearbox-oil/
Share on other sites

Clean them both, esp the drain plug. You might noticed some metal shavings from the magnetic part of the plug, get them off... its normal wear-and-tear from the gearbox. Run a single layer of plumbing tape around the threaded end of the plug (not necessarily but i did it anyway...

gearbox08.jpggearbox09.jpg

once all the old oil is drained, put the drain plug back. How tight you want it is ALL dependable on yourself... gearbox oil can last for a pretty long time and its usually recommended that you get it changed once every 2 years (dun quote me on that). If you screw it tightly with a vengence, then you will probably end up cursing yourself more then... anyway, i tighten it with a vengence... :)

the rest of the work is pretty straightforward... pump in the new oil (filler hole) till it starts overflowing from the filler hole. once that's done, screw the filler plug back on... again with a vengence.

and wala... you got new gearbox oil...

btw, i recommend that you get your driver seat covered like i did... once any stray oil gets onto the seats, the stain and smell stays on...

gearbox06.jpg

next project for me is diff oil change... wanted to do it today as well but going to read up more on the redline oil specs first...

hope this helps

cheers

glenn

if you are sliding under the car with your head towards the back of the car.. the filler plug will be on the left side of the gear. If you can find the drain plug, run your left hand (careful when hot) along the gearbox and you will find the squarish filler plug. It sticks out like a sore thumb and there's no way you can miss it.

ask for the redlineoil .. chk out www.redlineoil.com.au for the nearest retail outlet near you.

run a search thru this forum and you will find more info on it.

tranmission filter? that i am not so sure and dun wanna give you bogus advice. run a search and see what you can find. there's no filter on a manual, only a tiny magnet on the drain plug to attract all the stray metal shavings.

  • 1 year later...

i prefer to use the Motul range of oils...

they just released their LSD oil in 1L containers!! :D (instead of 10L drums)

Also can anybody confirm this:

gearbox in rb20 takes 2L, diff takes 1L??

engine - 300V Chrono (10w40 100% synthetic ester)

gearbox - Gear 300 (75w90 100% synthetic)

diff - Gear FF Competition

brakes - RBF600 (DOT4/600, 312 degree boiling point!)

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 5 months later...
  • 2 months later...
  • 1 year later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
    • For race cars, this is one part where I find having the roll cage bar having gone through a hole in the floor better than the build it up on a ledge inside... The Merc I help on, the main hoop ends are marked on the car, and the jack is marked... Jack goes under a few inches and lifts one whole side of the car up... Removes that fight for long slim jacks for race car duties!   My biggest issue for the daily drivers I work on, is my jacks don't go high enough. The jacks start out on a few blocks, jack it up, then start a second jack under it on more blocks, and then I can get an axle stand under it. My axle stands are presently in use, and are nearly fully extended. The car is sitting with barely more than a cm of clearance to get the wheel off the studs! Sarah's Kluger is the same, as it has an ungodly amount of droop available in the suspension and a distinct lack of good jacking points!
    • Happy? Yep, my to do list is getting shorter and shorter. Either this light approaching is the end of the tunnel, or I'm about to be hit by a train... Ha ha ha   Also, Duncan isn't that far out of town that you need to make a multi day drive out of it. 😛
×
×
  • Create New...