Jump to content
SAU Community

Steering Wheel "shakes" At High Speed

tonich
 Share

Recommended Posts

tonich Contributor

tonich

Posted
Posted (edited)

I bought my V35 3 months ago and I haven't really try out the speed.

I tried to step down the peddal but when is starts to reach 130km + the steering starts to "vibrate" or shakes and I am afraid to speed up further and it does not goes straight.

is it because of wheel alignment?

Edited by tonich
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/306769-steering-wheel-shakes-at-high-speed/
Share on other sites
Calvz86 Enthusiast

Calvz86

Posted
Posted

I had the same problem actually. Completed allignment and it was still doing it.. Found out that one of the rims was buckled ( inner part of the wheel was buckled due to previous owner hit sumthn real hard like a big pot hole or wateva ) replaced wheel and it was fine..

alr33x Grand Master

alr33x

Posted
Posted

alignment has nothing to do with shakes.. u needa balance one of ur weights might have fallen off or are not accurate i doubt your rim is buckled you would probaly know if thats the case.

130+kz on a track right? haha.

probaly cost you like $15bucks to fix.

alr33x Grand Master

alr33x

Posted
Posted
yeah most likely requires a wheel alignment

*facepalm*

if one more person says wheel alignment im guna go nuts.

alignment has NOTHING to do with shaking its a balance. alignment will just make the car pull left/right or whatever.

if im wrong feel free to flame me.. but i doubt it.

HEKT1K Grand Master

HEKT1K

Posted
Posted
could be wheel balance, could just be shitty tyres, could be a damaged rim, and if it stops doing it the moment you lift off then it is an engine mount

investigate this second.. happened to my dad back when he had his prelude, got wheels balanced (even an alignment as well lol, but it was tracking a bit side to side) and it still did it. brand new yoko tyres and the problem disappeared

tonich Contributor

tonich

Posted
  • Author
Posted
*facepalm*

if one more person says wheel alignment im guna go nuts.

alignment has NOTHING to do with shaking its a balance. alignment will just make the car pull left/right or whatever.

if im wrong feel free to flame me.. but i doubt it.

actually when I bought the car, I had MTA checked the car and they suggest wheel alignment as the car was pulling to right slightly. as with the wheels they did have some scratches and I don't think they are bent. anyway lets do both balance and alignment.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • TurboTapin
      Why am I hitting a power wall with my stroked RB25?

      By TurboTapin · Posted

      Kelford 246-A2. 262in/272ex. 
    • Adam_ECR33
      Hello sau 👋

      By Adam_ECR33 · Posted

      Thank you, 100% the intent. New coils were due and the 17" sixers look/feel loads better than the stock wheels. The aero options are so spot on.   Thanks for the warm welcome, all!
    • JC71
      98 R34GTT 4k engine stumble

      By JC71 · Posted

      98 r34 gtt Been rocking my latest setup and car running like never before. Have put a good 200 miles on it since all the latest changes and additions. everything is dialed in and have been driving it a bunch.   However, all a sudden last weekend as soon as I pushed throttle passed 4k and the engine stumbles, (slow or fast acceleration) hesitates and doesn’t go above 4100 or so, like a misfire. Everything else seems fine. I had a “good” set of coil packs that I removed from car when I first got it when I changed them over to new coils. I swapped out current ones for those, but no change. I also changed the plugs, no change. Seems to rev over 4 when out of gear with no load just fine no “misfire”, but as soon as its in gear with a load of any kind, it “misfires” as soon as rpm drop back below 4 k it runs perfectly, smooth, starts, restarts and drives fine as long as I keep it below 4 k while in gear. All readings look fine, no CEL   Any idea as to what could all a sudden cause an issue when pushing rpms passed 4 k?
    • r32-25t
      Why am I hitting a power wall with my stroked RB25?

      By r32-25t · Posted

      When you say your cams are 272/262 is that 272in and 262ex?
    • Kinkstaah
      Nismo GT Pro LSD configurations

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      We're arguing semantics. I am saying 45 accel and a 55 deccel ramp are "2 ways". Even a 45 degree ramp and an 89 degree ramp is "2 ways", because it is literally... two ways. The cusco 55/30 ramp is a 2 way. It's two ways. I get it though - in normal nomenclature a "2 way" would be 45/45 or 55/55 or 60/60 i.e the same locking in both directions. And something like 45/65 would be considered "1.5 way". I would then say if we're getting into the nitty gritty then every locking diff is a "2 way" diff and we should not speak in 1.5, or 2 ways but ramp angles instead. Which ofc if one of those ramp angles is 90deg, that side is not doing any locking. :p So Nismo don't obviously sell 3 things. The fact of the matter that they only sell two items really goes to show that there's a 2 way and a "1,5 way" which is really a 1 way. I believe the actual lockup for the 'adjustability' of the GT pro is really just setting preload for when the ramps actually start locking up. It's not changing how much 'wayness' there is. It is (somehow) horribly explained. People just buy whatever diff and go "locks up good bruh" and that's what ends up on socials forever.  
×
×
  • Create New...