Time Attack Setup For A Gtr

[N1GTR]

thanks guys, its going to be a long week but should have some good results in a few more days. very happy with the setup overall - the twinscroll turbo + tomei 280 is a killer combination

Tried a smaller duration but same lift cam for comparison?

Car looks great, well done! Its strange to see an S14 but hear RB power on the vid

[Full-Race Geoff]

i promise a big post with more updates is coming, but right now its late and i need to eat some food.. in the meantime here is a breakdown of the atessa unit, ive got big things in store for this -- the data we acquired during testing and at the race taught me a lot about tq split and how good the stock nissan systems design is - just not the stock atessa ecu. I am working with a high level engineer on a standalone tq split controller that will replace the atessa ecu.

[bigmikespec]

Great work and innovation. Very interested to hear your results from the ATESSA computer! Are you aware that an Australian electronics guru RUZIC has developed a unit that can be used to adjust the response of the ATESSA computers output?

Good luck, keep the updates coming.

[Full-Race Geoff]

yes i am aware of that, as well as the Bee*R unit and HKS has one also. i personally dont like any of the piggybacks, i feel a standalone controller is the only way to _properly_ get it done...

Edited April 22, 2010 by Full-Race Geoff

[Full-Race Geoff]

here is some video of our final lap of the day (fast lap) and the cooldown lap:

Full-Race R14 Catches Fire at 2010 Tuner Shootout (Video) <--- click here

You can hear the aluminum exhaust break around 1min 25secs, and thats when things start to get scary..

the exh setup was we used a 22" long stainless DP, followed by the long aluminum exhuast. We used header wrap at the front of the exh, to protect the p/s hoses from heat, and this likely shortened the exhaust's life.. This aluminum exh has seen a lot of abuse, many hours of dynoing, street driving and practice sessions. The heavy loads during the time attack event were just too much and it gave up

fortunately it was an easy cleanup, the car is already back to blingin! needs a little work this weekend, but will be 100% by monday.

here she is during some street driving

Edited April 23, 2010 by Full-Race Geoff

[Full-Race Geoff]

Please post the video link http://www.full-race.com/r14-fire-video.html on any forums or social networking sites you visit!! we need a lot of video views to make sure our sponsors stay with us for next year - you wouldnt believe how hard it is to get sponsorships these days, even for us

[hpt_simon]

Please post the video link http://www.full-race.com/r14-fire-video.html on any forums or social networking sites you visit!! we need a lot of video views to make sure our sponsors stay with us for next year - you wouldnt believe how hard it is to get sponsorships these days, even for us

looks good geoff, shame about the silly power steer line.

do you have any high boost dyno graphs of this new turbo yet?

thanks

simon

[Mr. Untouchable]

what an amazing build. Top stuff!!

[Full-Race Geoff]

just got back from the dyno and printed off some comparisons - I will update the thread with the dynocharts, seeing some very interesting trends you guys will be interested in

[Mr. Untouchable]

Space front of diff snout down to get some diff pinion angle, so when you accelerate the diff wants to straighten and indirectly drives tyre into the ground?

would love to hear more about this!

[Angus Smart]

Hey Geoff

I've deicded to go back to twins for my setup.. after finding out the borg warner wont fit onto the manifold i have.. and cant spend much on it anymore dew to job.

[Full-Race Geoff]

Here is the dynochart from my latest round of testing with my RB26 (this was done in 4wd, on UMS's awd dynapacks, previous testing was done in 2wd mode)

this compares the S300P 0.80 a/r to the S300SX w/ 88mm compressor 1.00 a/r

orange: 0.80 a/r S300P, custom machined housing - 17.5psi tapering to 16psi

green: 0.80 a/r S300P, custom machined housing - 20.5psi tapering to 17.5psi

VS

pink:S300SX 88-75 1.00 a/r 19psi

blue: S300SX 88-75 1.00 a/r 19psi (same as above) with slight cam gear adjustment (advanced to +3 intake from +2, and added a little fuel during spoolup)

you can see the considerable gains in area-under-the-curve that i was able to acheive with this new turbo, and very small loss up top - well worth the tradeoff.

now that im all done, considering the amount of work I went through for this and time and expense required to make this S300P work, i think the 83-75 would have provided virtually the same powerband, and fit better as well as be easier to install.

^^I would kill to get that powerband with my RB26..

Hey Geoff

I've deicded to go back to twins for my setup.. after finding out the borg warner wont fit onto the manifold i have.. and cant spend much on it anymore dew to job.

no problem!! we will have a solution for the twin turbo guys T25 setups in the fall well worth waiting for..

would love to hear more about this!

sorry i dont understand what you want to hear more about?

[NZM.031]

fark me that must hit like a rocket up its arse... 4000-5000rpm hold on!!!

[Mr. Untouchable]

sorry i dont understand what you want to hear more about?

Sorry, Well this is something I haven't heard much about, and just wondering what the results were like, and wether you had played around with it much. My car is rwd, so any added traction is alway in order.

what sort of spacing are we talking 1-2mm or 10mm??

regards, Jack

[bigmikespec]

no problem!! we will have a solution for the twin turbo guys T25 setups in the fall well worth waiting for..

Will hold off on any decision for my car until then if your single results are anything to go by.

Any more development for this car?

[Full-Race Geoff]

Well this is something I haven't heard much about, and just wondering what the results were like, and wether you had played around with it much. My car is rwd, so any added traction is alway in order. what sort of spacing are we talking 1-2mm or 10mm??

if you are asking about "tilting the subframe" you can do that to change antisquat... however i didnt do that - i only spaced the snout of my driveshaft down with washers becuase instead of tilting the subframe, i just lifted it up all the way (until i couldnt raise it anymore) and my driveshaft is giant so it would almost hit the gas tank shield. Raising the subframe like this this did have a small change in antisquat, but the big difference is massive roll center correction. The front of a GTR is way easy to correct roll center with - front balljoint spacers + adjustable tie rod ends.

If you want good traction - what are the lengths you are using for your RUCA and Rear traction rod? Taking the time to measure bumpsteer is advised..

Will hold off on any decision for my car until then if your single results are anything to go by. Any more development for this car?

i can tell you that the year 2010 is going to be a BIG year for the turbocharging industry

Edited April 29, 2010 by Full-Race Geoff

[Duncan]

.....The front of a GTR is way easy to correct roll center with - front balljoint spacers + adjustable tie rod ends.....

I only kind of agree with that - ball joint spacers or longer ball joints help but do not restore the factory geometry/roll centre unless you adjust the upper arms as well, which is hard to almost impossible without major changes.

[Full-Race Geoff]

I only kind of agree with that - ball joint spacers or longer ball joints help but do not restore the factory geometry/roll centre unless you adjust the upper arms as well, which is hard to almost impossible without major changes.

yes duncan, i do agree with that! unfortunately tallish ride height is required to keep the susp working right

[Full-Race Geoff]

here are some pics of the ATESSA test-jig i built. It is going to a very bright electrical engineer friend of mine who has experience with his own tq split ECU for time attack subarus. The GST subaru runs his system with great results.

cant wait to see what he comes up with - using onboard G sensor built onto his circuit board

[Duncan]

good looking setup, and it will be interesting to see what you go with and what you find.

some things I know:

with big power cars, the more fwd, the quicker it goes. right up to 50/50 split

you will then blow up your front diff and break front driveshafts so they need looking at

if you still have lots of fwd on corner entry you will get significant corner entry understeer (in particular if you have a mechanical diff)

so really the required setup is relively simple, you could get OK results with just a brake light switch instead of g sensor.