Time Attack Setup For A Gtr

[Full-Race Geoff]

thank you savman, im going to go with the 14 then, i really like the rear to have a solid lock, dont mind it on the street.

nzm - yes they are alloy. if you have gtst and want to upgrade to alloy knuckles you need z32, not gtr

[NZM.031]

thanks geoff... id always wondered that... im making my own knuckles and a new top arm for the gtst... but i was just curious

[Beer Baron]

i have the 2007 nismo catalog, but there are (4) kits available? take a look, do you know the differences?

could you please you ask your mate if he got the 8kg or 12kg? and serrated disc or smooth disc?

the one you want is either 3843S-RS520 (45ft/lb) or 3843S-RS521 (75ft/lb). for your car I'd go with the RS521 kit.

[Full-Race Geoff]

the one you want is either 3843S-RS520 (45ft/lb) or 3843S-RS521 (75ft/lb). for your car I'd got with the RS521 kit.

yes, thank you beer baron!! that is exactly what i was thinking, sent an email to a nissan buddy of mine to try and get that for me. What do you ascertain to be th difference between serrated disc and smooth disc? i suppose the serratted disc would run slightly cooler due to having more gear oil between the plates

[Beer Baron]

no worries. to be honest I've never used the RS650 or RS651 kits and in fact I think only the RS651 is still available. I've only used the RS520/521 kits and used a fair few and they are great. Definitely without the serrations it will alter the oil flow through the plates and I'd say the ones with serrations will lock up a lot harder even though you end up with less surface area as they are able to dissipate the oil. you can see the patterns on the 520/521 kits alternate between plates with some running concentricly around the disk face and the next ones running out from the centre. it must make them grip better.

I'd say you'll be happy with the RS521 kit and they are a great bang for buck mod. it's the same kit for 32/33 and 34 GTR as long as they are not the active diff models.

[Full-Race Geoff]

no worries. to be honest I've never used the RS650 or RS651 kits and in fact I think only the RS651 is still available. I've only used the RS520/521 kits and used a fair few and they are great. Definitely without the serrations it will alter the oil flow through the plates and I'd say the ones with serrations will lock up a lot harder even though you end up with less surface area as they are able to dissipate the oil. you can see the patterns on the 520/521 kits alternate between plates with some running concentricly around the disk face and the next ones running out from the centre. it must make them grip better.

I'd say you'll be happy with the RS521 kit and they are a great bang for buck mod. it's the same kit for 32/33 and 34 GTR as long as they are not the active diff models.

that is the best info ive received in years THANK YOU!!!

Im really excited to use this kit in my R32/R33 rear diff, but had no idea it would fit the R34 diff also! Would the vspec be the active diff model you are referring to? We have an R34 here which i would love to do this to, I had no idea this kit would work there also. Thanks for the info

btw some great info here on link lengths: http://www.nismo.co.jp/en/products/competi...suspension.html

Edited May 18, 2010 by Full-Race Geoff

[Beer Baron]

yep, Vspec and Vspec II have the active diff. only the non-vspec R34 GTR diff is suitable for this kit. and just confirming of course it's not suitable for any GTST diffs, they are all viscous or some models have the active diff same as the Vspec GTRs do. 33 GTR Vspec is active diff too. basically any of the plain jane mechanical 2 way GTR diffs are suitable, 32/33/34. anything else is not.

yeah the pro circuit link nismo kits are quite good (albeit a bit mild). that's the same thing we do to get circuit spec alignment. shorten the castor rod (obviously for circuit we usually got a bit further than those arms), lengthen the lower control arm a little which helps with camber, shorten the upper arms for the same reason. they also provide that inner upper control arm mount which moves the angle of the upper control arm so it's not getting twisted so much as it does when you are running more castor. from memory it also mounts a little higher too to help correct geometry for lowered cars. unfortunately you can't get that re-designed mount on it's own you have to buy the kit with the mount, castor rod and lower control arm which sucks if you already have adjustable castor rods and lower arms.

oh, and you're welcome! (^_^) always happy to help a fellow traveller. it's what we do here. it's what this forum is for. we share a lot of knowledge and ideas here and you've certainly shared plenty with the development of your own car.

[Full-Race Geoff]

heres what ive come up with:

3843S-RS520

MSRP: $240

3843S-RS521

MSRP: $240

3843S-RS650

DISCONTINUED

3843S-RS651

MSRP: $210

RS521 on order

[NZM.031]

wow that really is cheap isnt it.. top stuff.

[Full-Race Geoff]

The new issue of modified magazine is on news stands, check it out!!

We got 2nd place in AWD class.

Full-Race has recently received a lot of PMs and emails now that the new issue of the Tuner shootout is on newstands. The updated R14 portion of the Full-Race.com site is coming next week, but to answer the basic questions, ill copy/paste the beginning text for you:

Full-Race.com -- R14 DIY HOW-TO info

this portion of the Full-Race.com website breaks down the R14 conversion in detail. Pictures and information help to make it clear how to do this AWD RB26 swap. If you've done a few different motor swaps, installed some turbokits, know how to use a hand-drill + welder (220 Volt Mig welder recommended), and are committed/prepared to take on a big project you can tackle this install. If you dont know how to do swaps or install aftermarket turbokits, do not start this conversion until you have more experience or better understand the process.

A) Required BIG parts:

-(95-98) S14 Chassis, S15 will work too. S13 will NOT work for this swap!! <

-R32 GTR front clip w/ complete front suspension and complete rear subframe <easy to find at any big JDM importers/yards>

-Full-Race R14 DIY kit

^^^If you can acquire all of the above items^^^ all the big purchases are out of the way.

B) Full-Race R14 kit consists of these parts required to do the swap:

R14 Frame Rails (Left and Right side)

R14 billet frame blocks

Subframe Bolts/washers

LHD RB26 steering rack

Transmission Mount

Frame side Transmission Mount-plate

Front Upper-Control-Arm Structure (Upper Shock mounts)

Lower Shock mounts

1-piece Driveshaft (Aluminum or Steel)

1/2" Eye-to-Eye Coilovers - Moton or Koni (Circletrack or Road Race style heim-mounted)

Here is how it all works, and enough instructions to get you going:

First, start by getting the R32 GTR clip fully disassembled. We will be using almost every major component from this clip. Keep all the suspension control arms, brakes, hubs and bolts sorted, with their respective hardware. The engine and transmission should be inspected and it is recommended to refresh it - new timing belt, clutch, oil pump, etc. At this point, the subframe should be unbolted from the motor mounts and then cleaned/prepped for the swap....

to be continued. Thanks for the interest in the R14 conversions!

[Mr. Untouchable]

would really love to hear how this is going now. inspiring build, I want more updates, NOW =D

[Full-Race Geoff]

would really love to hear how this is going now. inspiring build, I want more updates, NOW =D

Ive been busting my arse to get the car ready for the race this year, March 30/31. One of the biggest changes for me was the addition of the ETS-pro center diff controller (torque split controller). I began my installation last night, hope to have the install completed later today

once my new PS pump arrives i can test it out!

[Full-Race Geoff]

pulling hours to get r14.1 in the modified tuner shootout march 30th. long story short, I was busting my ass to get my daily driver evo project ready for the modified tuner shootout. I hoped to run my evo for this as its debut race. unfortunately there was a mixup and modified mag put me down to enter the R14 (they didnt know i was building an evo) and said there are too many evo entries... if I wanted to be in the race i have to race in my nissan. So the heat is on, im getting the R14.1 ready again. There is a chance an evo will drop out, and in that case ill try to race 2 cars

here is the update:

-engine/fuel system/cooling system all remain untouched. nothing related to the engine had any damage from the fire. same intake manifold/ itb's and fuel system. i would like a better ECU, but oh well

-turbo manifold changed along with smaller MVS wastegates in a compact location - this allows for recircing the wastegates for emissions compliance (similar to our sr20 twinscroll kits) here is a pic of the work in progress:

-Turbo changes: installing an EFR 8374 turbo

-brakes are the same brembo G35/350Z brembo tracks ive had forever with raybestos race pads. I may use project Mu club racer pads instead (those are on my evo right now and amazing). Not sure if i will have an ebrake or not?

-suspension remains unchanged, moton double adjustables. found a bind at the front tension rod... i stole an idea from midori and it backfired. went back to OEM, no problems. May go softer on the spring rate to accomodate having to use a street tire instead of slicks

-ditched stock p/s pump, went to 1992 toyota MR2 electric powersteering pump. currently it is located in the trunk. the fire happened from my aluminum exhaust bursting and burning up a p/s hose. I ran a complicated AWD hydraulic circuit to control the torque split and p/s rack all ran through the p/s pump, so when the hose burst a large volume of ATF sprayed all over the bottom of the chassis and the exhaust lit it up. By eliminating the entire ATF system and proximity of p/s pump from the turbo and exhaust i have removed that possibility for fire. these are the changes i've made:

-installed OE nissan atessa system with new ETS-pro g-sensor software. this is the same thing as DCCD-pro that GST uses to run STI driveline in their gc chassis. info here: http://www.gtr.co.uk/forum/1486450-post53.html

-ive rerouted all the power steering and torque split lines so they are with the fuel lines - far away from the exhaust! (no more fire).

-kognition rear wing, braced to chassis? not sure if i will leave the wing off becuase this is a low speed track now (firebird west) and ill save the wing for R14.2? decisions

-removed sunroof, replaced with kognition carbon sunroof plug

-i installed a new OE fuel tank and replaced fuel lines just to be safe

-removed stereo

-removed heavy ass front splitter mount, will attach splitter to small lightweight aluminum frame or not at all (havent decided yet)

IF TIME PERMITS:

-carbonetic triple carbon clutch and rear LSD (already have a quaife front diff)

-R34 GTR 6 speed transmission and driveshaft

my car doesnt have only 2 small full-race stickers on it, and will stay that way for the comp.

weve got work to do!

[DVS JEZ]

Good effort

[Mr. Untouchable]

Awesome stuff, great to hear an update. feel free to load some pics up, not that your busy or anything... =)

and Goodluck for the Event this weekend!!

[Mr. Untouchable]

as for the mounting of the splitter I have about 0.000001% percent of your Fab knowledge BUT..what I used for my main mounting of my bar/splitter was some 200lb fishing leader (I have it around as we are big on game fishing) and mounted it to the rad suppot panel with some nice stainless turnbuckles. tensioned them right up and its really sturdy. shouldnt be too rigid if it bottoms out (it shouldn't) I just mounted some nice eyelets to the splitter and made up the cables and yeah. 500 grams of bracing and with four of them its mighty strong. anyways I'm keen to see what you come up with!

cheers, Jack

[JH32]

WOw, just read the thread - awesome build!!!