Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ringwood auto spares in VIC (ebay store) he stocks all sorts of goodies at VERY good prices. (Rob Mills)

if i find a link to his store i will post it up

if you are upgrading your front swaybar to an R31 item you'll need the bushes to suit.

nolothane make good castor rod bushes too (made a heck of a differenxe on mine)

you can also get steering coupling bush too (looks like a cookie with 4 equally spaced concentric holes)

you can also get steering coupling bush too (looks like a cookie with 4 equally spaced concentric holes)

Thanks Andrew

I didn't know that.

I've changed virtually every other bush in my car and fitted front and rear Selby swaybars so she should be nice and tight when back on the road.

Thanks Andrew

I didn't know that.

I've changed virtually every other bush in my car and fitted front and rear Selby swaybars so she should be nice and tight when back on the road.

The Wideline Sports (aka Noltec) steering coupling bush is VERY exy, but if you do a search on US Ebay you will find a guy called reddat and he sells just about everything you can think of for an 280ZX and his steering coupling is the same and half the price. And if you buy other things from him, the freight cost is shared across all items.

Cheers, D

I've ordered all the steering bushes thru wilkinsons. Where can I get more info on the r31 swap?? I was just going to get a selbys on the front and a custom thick one on the rear. Yes I realize the rear is a bit of work.

Unless you're prepared to spend a lot of your time replacing poly bushes, they are not necessarily the ants pants. I have replaced all the compression points with poly, but left the pivot points as OEM rubber bonded bushes, as most of the rally guys do. A greased poly bush when it flexes, elongates the hole the sleeve is in and dirt gets in, grinding away the hole size until it's stuffed and has to be replaced.

As for the front R31 sway bar, it's a straight swap, but 25mm D bushes need to be sourced, or buy the universal mount kit from Selby's. The Selby front sway bar kit uses a 24mm bar and rear is 22mm, but as we have discussed in private their rear is not what your thinking. I'm going to trial the balance of a 1.0mm diference as in OEM with the 25mm front R31 bar with an custom made 24mm rear on my cars, as I have custom made 24mm poly bushes that fit the standard rear bar mount brackets. (Noltec before Nolathane) I also have poly moustache bar bushes, custom made & rear cross member, before they put them into production.

I also have a solid 20mm rear bar & poly bushes (reddat) & brand new rubber bushes (ex Japan), made to same design as Jenesis (removing the kink at hand brake cable adjuster) that I would like someone to test with a stock 21mm front bar to see what diference, if any? it makes.

Customising suspension from standard is a lot of trial and error unless of coarse you just want to take the word of the mass producers. Nissan has the 1.0mm diference front to rear & Jenesis does the same, yet Selby does a 2.0mm diference and I would guess it has a lot to do with availability and their wanting to stock it of material AND really nothing to do with performance handling. Probably because they are dealing in most cases with dills with street cars that think they can be a boy racer with Selby Sway Bars fitted.

JMO

Cheers, D

post-2962-1265683969_thumb.jpg

post-2962-1265683992_thumb.jpg

post-2962-1265684015_thumb.jpg

hey d were u get the subframe bush from ? is it listed for a zed or something ?

ive got every thing noltec lists 4 r30 bar lower control arm bushs (which ya dont need)

o and i got whiteline 24/ 22m sway bars to suit ozzy r30 bolted up fine

post-48133-1265798271.jpg

has anyone got a link to these bushes etc? and whats this 280zx stuff fits? cos dont they run rack and pinion?

i probs only need steering linkage bushes (not sure what their called) try and reduce some of the free play. (have adjusted the box). and also rear subframe cos their just old and stuffed now

cheers...

Edited by OUTATIME
hey d were u get the subframe bush from ? is it listed for a zed or something ?

ive got every thing noltec lists 4 r30 bar lower control arm bushs (which ya dont need)

o and i got whiteline 24/ 22m sway bars to suit ozzy r30 bolted up fine

http://www.whiteline.com.au/Plus/pdf/WHITE...L_CATALOGUE.pdf

Whiteline Plus is the old Noltec produced suspension bush kits.

Some they kept & some they scrapped, but most of what we use is still available.

Cheers, D

hey d were u get the subframe bush from ? is it listed for a zed or something ?

ive got every thing noltec lists 4 r30 bar lower control arm bushs (which ya dont need)

o and i got whiteline 24/ 22m sway bars to suit ozzy r30 bolted up fine

When Whiteline did that kit originally, they were under the idea that a stock R30 rear bar was 18mm diameter.

Cheers, D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
    • Ok, disregard my “rate them” comment, sorry for my unrealistic input
×
×
  • Create New...