Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys.

This is something that's doing my head in at the moment... I've read pages and pages of info from all the manual boost controller threads and how to run high boost mode all the time with the stock dual stage solenoid...

My car had a turbotech controller on when I bought it, running 10psi, all good. Just for learning experience, I removed that and set up the stock solenoid again but earthed it out so it ran 7psi all the time. Now even though it was less boost, I felt a BIG difference in low end response. It picked up and got going a lot quicker, but once it was moving... well you could feel there wasn't much top end power.

So I put it back to using the boost controller with no solenoid.

Now I've read in 2 or 3 places (but can't find the damn threads/web pages again!) that by plugging the return line to the intake (from the t-piece) it may change the richness. I can understand that, as air that was originally going to be bled off by the solenoid back to in front of the turbo, is no longer there, and has just been bled off by the boost controller.

I now have an R32 actuator in and I tried hooking up all the lines to the solenoid again to bleed off another 2psi and get 11-12psi..... but it won't go over 10psi, and still feels a bit slow down low. I've checked all the vacuum lines and replaced all of the ones in that area (intercooler->actuator/solenoid/return line) with new 4mm hose. Would the diameter of the hose make ANY difference at all?

I have no 'restrictor' in the lines anywhere, which there apparently is from stock.

Can anyone help explain whether this is an actual phenomenon or whether I'm just imagining this, and maybe shed some light on how I can get rid of the sluggishness? Other than 'put back to stock' or 'ecu + tune'... because I've felt it run well before with the gear I have.

Thanks for your help!

But I want 10psi while still having the factory solenoid plugged in.... that's my entire point. While using that setup my low response was GREAT, felt like a different car.

So I figured use an R32 actuator, use the stock solenoid, and have 10psi+response..... then 12psi @4500 as usual.

How could it be plumbed wrong if I was getting 10psi with it installed? Wouldn't it only open at wastegate pressure, or something totally different, if it was plumbed incorrectly?

How could it be plumbed wrong if I was getting 10psi with it installed? Wouldn't it only open at wastegate pressure, or something totally different, if it was plumbed incorrectly?

i could put a hole in the intercooler and still set it @ 10psi it would just be laggy and taper. i have seen those things plumbed wrong on numerous occasions. I bet you haven't isolated the std boost solenoid correctly from the bleed valve circuit..

When I bought the car, it had the turbotech installed. When I changed back to using the standard solenoid, I had more response. I then changed it back to the turbotech, and lost the response. I've NOW gone back to using the standard solenoid with the R32 actuator... but don't have the response this time. Everything is plumbed correctly, I'm sure of it.

When I bought the car, it had the turbotech installed. When I changed back to using the standard solenoid, I had more response. I then changed it back to the turbotech, and lost the response. I've NOW gone back to using the standard solenoid with the R32 actuator... but don't have the response this time. Everything is plumbed correctly, I'm sure of it.

well something isnt right ive got countless pages of dyno files and seat of the pant experience proving the opposite of what your saying. Without seeing pics of the installation i cant comment any further.

Yeah, no problems... I'm not trying to argue, merely trying to understand. I'll get some pics when I get a chance and see what everyone thinks. Thanks for the help so far!

Your front mount won't be helping your response with a stock turbo. You should have no lines connected to your solenoid. Feed from boost pipe goes to turbo tech and bleed goes to bov return pipe (you have got a bov return pipe?) and the other line goes to actuator. Set the desired max on your turbo tech. If that doesn't work throw away your turbo tech and replace with a plain T (still with no pipes going to or from your solenoid) and put a restrictor in the bleed line the stock one will do but if you can't find it or someone has thrown it away you can just block off the T with solder and drill increasingly larger hole in it until you get the desired result.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You can’t see much on the other side as the lcd is there I don’t think it’s the same as the m33 beside it as the markings on top is not the same was hoping someone had a good quality photo or if they just happened to have the unit in hand, quickly take the cover off and take a photo to clearly show the marking on top to identify the diode   the unit is currently with an electronics repair shop so I can’t take another photo at the moment hopefully they are smart enough to know if it’s a zener diode or not
    • I'd be very surprised if you can buy new OEM mats. But if you can, I want some too!  Do you have links to the variations you found? Also, where are you located? I found that Nengun is happy to list items to purchase but when you do buy them you'll get an email that it's actually discontinued. As far as I know the variations in floor mats are different colour schemes as well as automatic and manual having a slightly different shape. The automatic ones fit into a manual car without issues, but I think you'd have trouble fitting the other way around. I have photos that show the shape difference if you care. FWIW I bought sets of used floor mats in decent condition at yahoo auctions.
    • Hi 🙋‍♂️. Just bought my Unicorn but the interior need some minor work so it would match my expectations ;). I noticed it is hard to get used oem floor mats in good condition so i started to dig if there's any chance to buy set of new ones. I found two websites - nengun and amayama and it looks like one can still buy factory new floor mats in Japan, but thers a small issue. Some mats (i assume genuine, oem ones) are marked as G4900 and these are "discontinued". The ones you can buy are marked as G4911 but i have no idea if these are also oem, made by other producer or some lower quality replacements that looks entirely different. Can anyone help? 😃  P.s. there is also some strange indication - 0V005, 0V015 and 0V505. Any idea what does it mean? Would appreciate any help with this 🙏
    • Hi, Marek here 🙋‍♂️. I finally fulfilled my longtime dream - recently bought Stagea and now waiting for it to arrive in Poland. There's only few of these in my country, and one of the owners  recommended mi this forum as a source of all the info i'd need since now i own one  so here i am.  
    • Version 1 aluminium airbox is.......not acceptable No pics as I "didn't like the look.....alot" Even after all my "CAD", and measurements, the leg near the fusebox just didn't sit right as it ended up about 10mm long and made the angle of the dangle look wrong, the height was a little short as well, meh, I wasn't that confident that Version 1 was going to be an instant winner I might give Version 2 another go, there's plenty of aluminium at work, but, after having in on and off a few times, and laying in the old OEM airbox without the new pod filter and MAF, there may be an option to modify the OEM air box and still use the Autoexe front cover and filter.... maybe This >  Needs to fit in here, but using the panel, and not the pod, the MAF will need to fit in the airbox though> I'm thinking as the old OEM box and Autoexe cover that is sitting in the shed is just sitting around doing nothing, and they are relatively abundant and cheap to replace if I mess it up and need another, it may well fit with some modifications to how the Autoexe brackets mounts to the rad support, and some dremiling to move it get in there, should give me some more room for activities, as I don't want to move the MAF and affect the tune Sealing the hole it requires to stick it in the air box is simple, a tight fit and some pinch weld will seal it up tight  I am calling this a later problem though
×
×
  • Create New...