Jump to content
SAU Community

Boost Controller = Less Low End Response Than Stock Solenoid

mosquitocoils

By mosquitocoils,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

mosquitocoils Veteran

mosquitocoils

Posted
Posted

Hey guys.

This is something that's doing my head in at the moment... I've read pages and pages of info from all the manual boost controller threads and how to run high boost mode all the time with the stock dual stage solenoid...

My car had a turbotech controller on when I bought it, running 10psi, all good. Just for learning experience, I removed that and set up the stock solenoid again but earthed it out so it ran 7psi all the time. Now even though it was less boost, I felt a BIG difference in low end response. It picked up and got going a lot quicker, but once it was moving... well you could feel there wasn't much top end power.

So I put it back to using the boost controller with no solenoid.

Now I've read in 2 or 3 places (but can't find the damn threads/web pages again!) that by plugging the return line to the intake (from the t-piece) it may change the richness. I can understand that, as air that was originally going to be bled off by the solenoid back to in front of the turbo, is no longer there, and has just been bled off by the boost controller.

I now have an R32 actuator in and I tried hooking up all the lines to the solenoid again to bleed off another 2psi and get 11-12psi..... but it won't go over 10psi, and still feels a bit slow down low. I've checked all the vacuum lines and replaced all of the ones in that area (intercooler->actuator/solenoid/return line) with new 4mm hose. Would the diameter of the hose make ANY difference at all?

I have no 'restrictor' in the lines anywhere, which there apparently is from stock.

Can anyone help explain whether this is an actual phenomenon or whether I'm just imagining this, and maybe shed some light on how I can get rid of the sluggishness? Other than 'put back to stock' or 'ecu + tune'... because I've felt it run well before with the gear I have.

Thanks for your help!

mosquitocoils Veteran

mosquitocoils

Posted
  • Author
Posted

But I want 10psi while still having the factory solenoid plugged in.... that's my entire point. While using that setup my low response was GREAT, felt like a different car.

So I figured use an R32 actuator, use the stock solenoid, and have 10psi+response..... then 12psi @4500 as usual.

mosquitocoils Veteran

mosquitocoils

Posted
  • Author
Posted

How could it be plumbed wrong if I was getting 10psi with it installed? Wouldn't it only open at wastegate pressure, or something totally different, if it was plumbed incorrectly?

STATUS Grand Master

STATUS

Posted
Posted
How could it be plumbed wrong if I was getting 10psi with it installed? Wouldn't it only open at wastegate pressure, or something totally different, if it was plumbed incorrectly?

i could put a hole in the intercooler and still set it @ 10psi it would just be laggy and taper. i have seen those things plumbed wrong on numerous occasions. I bet you haven't isolated the std boost solenoid correctly from the bleed valve circuit..

mosquitocoils Veteran

mosquitocoils

Posted
  • Author
Posted

When I bought the car, it had the turbotech installed. When I changed back to using the standard solenoid, I had more response. I then changed it back to the turbotech, and lost the response. I've NOW gone back to using the standard solenoid with the R32 actuator... but don't have the response this time. Everything is plumbed correctly, I'm sure of it.

STATUS Grand Master

STATUS

Posted
Posted
When I bought the car, it had the turbotech installed. When I changed back to using the standard solenoid, I had more response. I then changed it back to the turbotech, and lost the response. I've NOW gone back to using the standard solenoid with the R32 actuator... but don't have the response this time. Everything is plumbed correctly, I'm sure of it.

well something isnt right ive got countless pages of dyno files and seat of the pant experience proving the opposite of what your saying. Without seeing pics of the installation i cant comment any further.

mosquitocoils Veteran

mosquitocoils

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Yeah, no problems... I'm not trying to argue, merely trying to understand. I'll get some pics when I get a chance and see what everyone thinks. Thanks for the help so far!

KiwiRS4T Grand Master

KiwiRS4T

Posted
Posted

Your front mount won't be helping your response with a stock turbo. You should have no lines connected to your solenoid. Feed from boost pipe goes to turbo tech and bleed goes to bov return pipe (you have got a bov return pipe?) and the other line goes to actuator. Set the desired max on your turbo tech. If that doesn't work throw away your turbo tech and replace with a plain T (still with no pipes going to or from your solenoid) and put a restrictor in the bleed line the stock one will do but if you can't find it or someone has thrown it away you can just block off the T with solder and drill increasingly larger hole in it until you get the desired result.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      R34 Handbrake light saying ON and intermittently flashing

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Well, yes, every CU on the bus is available via the Consult port, but whether the scanner you are using is capable of talking to the TCU, the ABS/TCS modules, etc etc, is what is at question here. Many of them are only for engine codes. So, if you have one of those, you won't know if the ABS is having a bitch.
    • GTSBoy
      Wheel Sizes & Offsets For Skylines

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      That's now. R chassis Skylines come from a time when the tolerance in the ADRs was a bit more....slack. My car, on 235/35-17, which is damn near the exact same size as the original 205/55-16, is pretty much bang on correct indicated speed across the whole legal range. That's demonstrated with constant speed run over 5km, and GPS speed. It's just the luck of the draw. My particular speedo head has to be the thing that is "calibrated" that way, because everything else (the diff ratio, the gearbox and the speedo drive**) are all same same as most other Skylines. **OK, so the speedo drive is a Navara unit to drive the R32's cable, not the electronic unit than an R33/4 would normally have with teh same gear on it. Otherwise, I applaud your OCD tendencies, and I would do the same if I needed to.
    • RB25inside
      R34 Handbrake light saying ON and intermittently flashing

      By RB25inside · Posted

      Not too sure, I believe the Nissan consult port does everything? Also just filled up the reservoir to full and the light is still on. The float seems to move up and down fine.
    • The Bogan
      Wheel Sizes & Offsets For Skylines

      By The Bogan · Posted

      The speedo's can be very conservative, when my Mazda NC MX5 speedo is showing 118kph, the GPS, and a calibrated radar.... cop mate.....hits me at around 110kph +/- 1 or 2 kph, and that is on a 215/45 17, stock tyres size is 205/45 17 as well, so weirdly conservative with stock tyre size When my Commodore speedo red 116kph GPS had me at 110kph on 255/40 17, so again conservative Google says manufacturers need to set the speedo from 4 to 10% slower than actual road speed.....for safety.....and compliance  After doing some offset and clearance measurements to see what can fit the NC on 17x8 +40, without guard rolling or rubbing anything at my current ride height, I've decided that when my tyres are toast, I'm going to fit 225/45 17 and see where that gets me IRT actual speed of my speedo and GPS/radar From the online calculator I should be still be doing around 5kph under an actual 110kph when the speedo is showing 110kph My ADHD requires that when I'm doing 110kph on the speedo, that the actual road speed is actually really close to that, and not alot slower And going from 205 to 225 still keeps the car within the %/mm allowable in the NSW vehicle rules and regulations, which is nice, as long as I'm looking at the latest version that is.....LOL https://www.nsw.gov.au/sites/default/files/2021-02/RMS-13.464-Light-vehicle-modifications-Vehicle-Standards-Information-No-6-November-2013.pdf
    • MBS206
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Take the value it measured as, and pick the closest range available that is above the reading on the screen.   Also, no point just testing the coils. Read what has been said again. You need to test all your wiring, everything.
×
×
  • Create New...