Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Good idea, but heat wrap is made to withstand red hot exhaust temperatures, and your intercooler pipes will look horrible. Also the stuff is not exactly cheap.

Go to Clarke Rubber and buy some sponge neoprene sheet, its the stuff wet-suits are made from. It is dull black, and does not look out of place in an engine compartment, and it comes in a wide range of thicknesses.

It stretches a fair bit, and with a pair of scissors, some contact adhesive, and a bit of imagination you can do a first class job around those tricky bends. I bought a can of Quick Grip adhesive. Its the stuff you smear on both surfaces and allow to dry, and any showing afterward wipes off with a petrol soaked rag.

I have done this a few times and have been completely happy with the results. This stuff is a really good thermal insulator, and its waterproof.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/30780-heat-wrap/#findComment-622519
Share on other sites

yeh id heat wrap the dump pipe and even put a heat bag over the bak half of the turbo keep engine bay temps down and allows the heat to move faster, as for the coola pipes, id get them hpc coated, looks way nicer then heat wrap and basically does the same thing, but cost a bit more to do(note u can also do this to manifolds etc)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/30780-heat-wrap/#findComment-622598
Share on other sites

HPC is going to be the best, money no object solution.

Wrapping is not going to look as nice, but if neatly done should work just as well. Do not forget that heat shields are also very effective and low cost where you have very high temperature parts. These should be shiny aluminium or stainless, and reflect most of the infrared radiation back to the source.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/30780-heat-wrap/#findComment-622608
Share on other sites

I bought some and then returned the product after doing a lot of research on it.

Basically it works. You can pretty much touch the manifold by hand after you have done 20 laps of a track and you will not get burnt (if you touched it without the wrap you'd get a nasty injury!!!).

They wrap stuff in race cars all the time. It does work but it will wear out your parts a lot quicker. The wrap keeps the heat in, thus after your car is turned off, the heat doesn't go away... ie: your manifolds etc are still hot and will stay that way for ages. Thus more stress.

Read the fine print on many exhaust manufacturers sites/documentation: they will not cover (warranty) their products if they are wrapped in heat wrap.

Ask people who work at exhaust shops too. eg: Ask Lambros at High Tech mufflers and he will be the 1st to tell you that heat wrap will destroy your manifold quickly via cracks.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/30780-heat-wrap/#findComment-622643
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So could it be assumed it has been installed intentionally with potentially a power FC boost controller kit? 
    • Had my rig on Matt's dyno at PITS the other day. After a few years between tunes I added a few sensors and swapped intercoolers. Result. 553hp at 26psi. Not bad for an FJ20 that was built in 2007. The problem.. It filled the overflow bottle on hard runs which leads me to believe the head gasket isn't sealing. I have a coolant pressure sensor which was reading cap pressure at 22psi and occasionally overrunning to 23/24 psi on deceleration after a pull. It was not spiking. It has arp2000 head studs and a cometic gasket. As its been 18 years in service, I pulled the engine out and head off. Everything looks good but we obviously have an issue. Where I'm at.. Years ago I had the same issue, I checked the stud tension and they were all over the place. Some at 60 to 70 and some up near 90. I nipped them all to 100ft lbs and this stopped the water push until now. I believe this compromised the gasket back then. What do I do? 2 options are..  1) I bought arp 625+s, which I could put in with a new gasket. Thinking Kameari this time, reassemble and try again. 2) strip the block, get fire rings machined in with copper gasket and try that. I do not want to push it more than 28 to 30psi. I think the turbo will be out by then anyway. (G30-770). My other concern is the long term ability of a copper head gasket. Are they streetable for years? I feel like a new gasket with the new studs will probably suffice, but I don't know. Any thoughts welcome and advice on copper gaskets and fire rings. Thanks!
    • I'm a fan of the JZX110, and the Aristo. Big cruiser cars, and with the factory cars, super comfortable and feel like you're driving an armchair! And the JZ motors are a pretty nice engine too, especially with some basic mods.   The import process, and the need to be able to trust people, and the fact there's so many scammers around is what ever puts me off wanting to go through that ordeal!
    • I don't care for these at all, but at least the underside looks straight and not rusty. A good basis for a long life. Many cars from Japan have been lifted with forklifts and f**ked almost irrepairably.
    • Yes, but it's not dumb or dodgy. You can build a perfectly good boost controller from a pressure reg, a relief valve (looks same same as a reg if all from Norgren or SMC, for example) and a check valve. I ran one for years. Only superceded with  EBC because I could get one for cheaps and wanted finer control.   THis mod is certainly not a sketchy boost mod, provided the boost is kept below the "spin to death" threshold of the turbos.
×
×
  • Create New...