Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys, im quite a noob when it comes to cars but i need help and fast.

some of you probly noticed buy my car shat itself along pt wakefield road not to long ago. got a maroon 33 quite stock.

anyways need info on what may be wrong with my car.

while i was in nsw my gf was driving the car along pt wakefield road and the car suddently has a cut in power! all the power then works just the car wont start. RAA guy came down and said "it could be electrical" -_-"

ive asked a few friends and they've said could be a coil pack or the cas.. or the timing belt that i have heard. if so would anyone know the cost of repairs for what i just mentioned? and know of a good place to get my car towed to get looked at and fixed! let me know asap cos i need my baby on the road :laugh:

also i am curious on where the cas is located in a 33.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/308011-a-problem-with-my-r33-gtst-series-1/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 47
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

ive asked a few friends and they've said could be a coil pack or the cas.. or the timing belt that i have heard. if so would anyone know the cost of repairs for what i just mentioned? and know of a good place to get my car towed to get looked at and fixed! let me know asap cos i need my baby on the road :nyaanyaa:

I recommend Clisby auto electrical on main north road (theyre walking distance to Main North Nissan).

If you've broken your timing belt you're well and truly munted, but if its just electrical as the RAA guy said, then clisby's can fix it. coil packs arent expensive to get 2nd hand, you can however get splitfire coilpacks for the $500 mark depending on the model of engine u have. cas i dont know how much they cost but they are a fairly common component across the nissan range.

also i am curious on where the cas is located in a 33.

On the front of the engine, attached over the exhaust cam gear.

-D

1 coil pack failing won't stop the car, should start but will run rough as 1 cylinder will be dead.

Cas or Cam Angle Sensor is mounted on the front of the engine, though you won't be able to see anything wrong with it even if you pull it off. Requires specialist equipment to diagnose.

If you want to check that your timing belt isn't broken pull the oil filler cap off & get someone to briefly try to start the car, if the cam isn't turning there's your problem.

Could be any one of a hundred different things though, even a blown fuse. Wouldn't hurt to check them.

If you need a workshop (and by the sound of it you almost certainly will) start by telling us what area you are in.

if its a series 1 i reckon its the coilpack ignitor on the back of the rocker cover where abouts are ya mate i think i have a spare one you could swap and see if that helps

if its a series 1 i reckon its the coilpack ignitor on the back of the rocker cover where abouts are ya mate i think i have a spare one you could swap and see if that helps

well it wont hurt to take a shot at it. i live down paralowie near spring bank, are you close to my area?

and thanks guys for the quick reply. i will definatly get bak to this post with the problem solved hopefully. but more info on what may be wrong would be great!

If you want to check that your timing belt isn't broken pull the oil filler cap off & get someone to briefly try to start the car, if the cam isn't turning there's your problem.

Could be any one of a hundred different things though, even a blown fuse. Wouldn't hurt to check them.

If you need a workshop (and by the sound of it you almost certainly will) start by telling us what area you are in.

will the cams still turn even though my car wont start?

and RAA dude already checked the fuses says thats not it, but i'll double check em. would anyone by chance have an english version of which fuse is which? cos i have a japanese one >.<

and i live down paralowie

well it wont hurt to take a shot at it. i live down paralowie near spring bank, are you close to my area?

and thanks guys for the quick reply. i will definatly get bak to this post with the problem solved hopefully. but more info on what may be wrong would be great!

i live around the same area as you mate....so i will see what i can find in the garage and try and help you out :nyaanyaa:

will the cams still turn even though my car wont start?

and RAA dude already checked the fuses says thats not it, but i'll double check em. would anyone by chance have an english version of which fuse is which? cos i have a japanese one >.<

and i live down paralowie

yeah im pretty close im at munno para west shoot me ya ph number in pm and see what we can do

cheers dean

i live around the same area as you mate....so i will see what i can find in the garage and try and help you out :blink:

would you have a spare igniter like mid life crises does? if so then would be great cos then wont have to bother him comin down this far. if not all good i'll just pm dean shortly.

thanks man! would you have one for the fuse box in the boot aswell?

is the motor turning over, but just not firing up?

my gf says yes it cranks but just doesnt wana fire up. though my car battery is dead, its charging right now. so i'll have to wait and see if what she says is true.

the one in the boot is in english from memory

but if they are'nt look here

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R3...ate-t21684.html

ah thanks man. i couldnt find what fuse is what for the boot.

but ive checked all my fuses and they are all fine. im at my car now. ugh need this battery to charge to see further into the problem.

ok guys heres the diagnosis, my battery was charged. i tried to fire it up. it was turning over and seems that every now and then the car wants to start, but it just wont start! fuses are fine. but thats all i know >.< i'll check the timin belt after my mate comes round sometime. but that coilpack igniter sounds like a good start. so if anyone is free then pm me today and come round if your close and we can do it. im free all day.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yes. Probably, given that there is only access from the bottom end of it, go with a drill bit. Don't start too small. 7 or 8mm is probably the right size. You want something that can make a big enough hole to do some damage, but not so bit that it clashes with the steel or binds up and breaks your wrist. A slow speed is probably a good idea too. Once the rubber is destroyed, you then have to get the crush tube off the stud, which will be the whole heat/oil/cutting exercise all over again, but this time with the need to strictly avoid damaging the stud (any further than the corrosion might already have done.
    • We replaced the connector just because we could and it was still there, once we swapped the injectors around it stopped. The injectors were something I had thoughts of replacing even before I first started the engine and in hindsight I should have 
    • Not too sure just yet, want to have a go at doing what I can myself, but to start with want someone to cast their eye over it tell me what needs doing to get it running and back on the road, so anyone with great overall knowledge would be ideal.
    • I personally would go with cutting out the rubber. Then deal with getting sleeve off separately. Rubber can be painful to cut, it loves to jam up cutting tools. I normally have success with drill bits, deburr bits, angle grinders, jigsaw, reciprocating saw, and never forget... fire. Obviously different tools won't work in all locations you're trying to work with, and you need to be comfortable with each. You personally may be happy slowly slicing it out with a razor blade, if you are, go for it with one too! Feel free to wait for others to weigh in also on their thoughts.
    • So ... I got everything disconnected and started dropping the frame. Three of the four mounts started to come down but the fourth one (the one with the nut that gave me all the trouble) won't budge. The inner metal sleeve stays up tight against the chassis rail although the outer part of the mount drops a bit (and can be levered quite a lot more) but it's just stretching the rubber bushing. So I reckon there's some serious corrosion inside the inner sleeve and holding it tight to the lug at the top of the bolt. Tried everything I can think of so far: penetrating oil, whacking the top of the sleeve to vibrate it and wedge a screwdriver blade in there. I also tried to turn the inner sleeve a bit by hitting it with a chisel at the bottom. It's stuck solid. What do you think about cutting the rubber with a blade so I can drop the subframe around it anyway. Then worry about getting the inner sleeve off after? Will that work? Is it gonna give me even more problems?
×
×
  • Create New...