Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

really clutching at straws here

does the car have any whacko-mods? plenum? throttle body? mega coil pack / injector hacks?

try unplugging the afm and see if it starts (long shot)

does the stock ECU have any signs of being tinkered with? remap stickers or crap like that?

where are you located

really clutching at straws here

does the car have any whacko-mods? plenum? throttle body? mega coil pack / injector hacks?

try unplugging the afm and see if it starts (long shot)

does the stock ECU have any signs of being tinkered with? remap stickers or crap like that?

where are you located

Im actually from NZ so duno how many people on here are from nz...i really want to find somone with a r33 like mine and see if itl start that.

Im going to try that now... and my stock ECU has a "G8" sticker on it...doesnt look like its been tinkered with...or is there any other stickers

really clutching at straws here

does the car have any whacko-mods? plenum? throttle body? mega coil pack / injector hacks?

try unplugging the afm and see if it starts (long shot)

does the stock ECU have any signs of being tinkered with? remap stickers or crap like that?

where are you located

Took the afm plug out...and no luck with it starting, i took a closer look at the ecu...its got a slight little faded strip of see through japanese symbols just under and half on the "g8" sticker... dont know what it means or if it could be from somone having played with it or even chipped it? but its so insignificant i doubt its anything to worry about it... But having a chipped ecu wouldnt cause it to not start with the pfc would it?

Oh and is it possible somthing wired up to the ignition or somthing wired up wrong is causing the power fc to not want to start?

Thanks for your help guys

nah even if it was remapped it shouldnt cause it not to start unless it had like mega large injectors and wierd AFM's

just looking for any other clues as to why it wont start

yeah if the ignition is different from standard it could certainly cause it

do you notice anythign different ? mangled turbo timer install etc ?

nah even if it was remapped it shouldnt cause it not to start unless it had like mega large injectors and wierd AFM's

just looking for any other clues as to why it wont start

yeah if the ignition is different from standard it could certainly cause it

do you notice anythign different ? mangled turbo timer install etc ?

Yea...under my steering wheel is a huge mess of wiring...the guy that had the car before me had tapped into all kinds of ignition wires for the boost controller and gauge and turbo timer etc...and whoever did the alarm has done a shocking job...but everything works...but could the power fc be fussy about this?

yeah we have seen where the PFC won't crank over as its more fussy about wires, and the circuit etc

look in the FAQ for ECCS, there's some documentation on the ECCS system and how it needs to be setup

the assumption is your ECCS is fine, as it cranks with the stock ECU, but it might yield some clues and where to look

One of the Stagea guys is having a similar issue with his PFC,

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Is...01#entry5093601

Is your fuel pump operating? Try a direct power feed and see if it is the same issue... Common PFC problem?

i would try the pfc in another car first, i have a pile of dead r33 PFC's here..... it is actually quite common.

I dont think mines just dead...i think its either faulty or its my car...considering the hand controller and its functions work...and well seem to be working??

yip the fuel pump is working...and its just the standard one so i havent messed around with it yet...the sensor check on the hand controller says its working right too....

Im from auckland in NZ so im trying to find somone i know with an r33 that i can try it on...

Would a shop be able to plug it into a laptop and find out the problem inside the pfc if its faulty?

This is a bit of a disaster...

Edited by R33 0wnerrr

Have you checked your plugs?

Installed a V500 in my 33 and spent hours going through the same crap as you, in the end computer was just pumping in too much fuel and fouled (drowned) the sparkies!!! A bit of trim, new plugs and then a good tune, all was good!

Have you checked your plugs?

Installed a V500 in my 33 and spent hours going through the same crap as you, in the end computer was just pumping in too much fuel and fouled (drowned) the sparkies!!! A bit of trim, new plugs and then a good tune, all was good!

Really? ill check them today...hope its somthing simple like that... fingers crossed!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • And if you want more power, more reliably, and cheaper, go get the Aussie RB... The 4L Barra and put that in instead.
    • No cats will keep discolouring the rear bar. Sends white paint a weird yellow stain. Cut and polish normally gets it out, but you'll be doing that every fortnight I found.
    • Both heads will be equally reliable or unreliable depending on what you do to them.  Stock the RB26 head will flow more. You have access to the stock intake ITB manifold on the RB26 cheaply which flows really well(1000hp+).   Arguably more aftermarket support for RB26, though in Aus we love our RB30 SOHC heads too.    The only downsides to the RB26 head is if you have a VL commodore and want to keep the SOHC look.  Where you may have an issue is drilling out the rb30 block for the bigger head studs but if you are building a big power motor you'd probably put bigger studs on the SOHC head too.  This is just about finding a good machine shop, sometimes easier said than done.  RB30 head worked can make big power just like a Rb26 head, so really it actually more comes down to what your preference is for your car.  People now even making billet versions of both.
    • 2630s work perfectly well. There is something to be said for just using the 30 head, as it saves all the pain of the conversion, still makes tons of power, still sounds cool, etc etc. 2630 will obviously make more power again, but the differences are not stupidly big. It really depends on whether you're racing for sheep stations or not. If it's dead serious, then it's a 26 head. If it's just for fun, it could go either way. But the 26 head and the effort to get it set up, etc etc, is part of the fun.
    • I've been building a 26/30 for a few years now. I've had the head built with all the good stuff. I had a 32 gtr but blew it up and yes its all going into a vl but im looking for some advice from some RB nuts on pros and cons on putting a 26 head on a 30 bottom end is it worth it Works are as follows Head -Extensive porting 1mm oversized supertech valves Supertech double springs Supertech valve guides Supertech titanium retainers Tomei solid lifters Tomei 270 x 10.25 cams Head drain Bottom end series 2 rb30 block Cp ceramic coated pistons Eagle rods Romac balancer Oil restrictions  O ringed blah blah spent a fortune And will get a girdle because the 30s arent used to handling that much rpm Nitto billet oil pump Hypertune plenum 6boost mani Refurbed astra pump thats the cover for it in the boot I did have a precision 6262 but sold it because drag car life. Currently building the ass end full 4 link floater rear end with a 2 speed  But the dilemma i have is my mate rekens I should just stick with the 30 head for reliability. Has any one had any issues with mounting the 26 head ie compression blowing gaskets etc. Just looking for some advice from people who have gone down this route. Here's some photos. Blew the oil pump in the gtr and decided to rip the motor out at the time and do a full build only to find it had been a repairable write off so went down this path.     
×
×
  • Create New...