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Best Way To Tap Into Ecu Wires


ascenion24
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So ive got my wideband controller working on the bench, time to hook it up to the car and get some data logging done.

The wideband controller has various inputs for speed, rpm etc... all from the ecu.

What I would like to know is, what is the best way to tap into the ecu to get the signal? Im fearing the only way I have is to cut and re solder the wire harness as it comes out of the ECU.

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STOP!!!! Dont cut the wires, just strip some of the coating off them and splice the wires you wish to tap in around the bare ecu wires and solder them together and

tape it up with some good quality electrical tape.

post-41401-1266391544_thumb.jpg

Picture care of evilution.co.uk

post-41401-1266391743_thumb.jpg

Picture care of legacygarage.com

Hope that helps. :thumbsup:

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99 GTT, perfect, actually dont know why I didnt think of that its so obvious...

errno, i've seen those before, but im a bit skeptical, what if they cut in too deep, id worry about the wire breaking over time.

Thanks guys, off to do some soldering tomorrow and hopefully logging some AFRs

Edited by ascenion24
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Every auto-elec and electronics person I've talked to says to steer-clear of those devices, and to strip and solder (that's what I've done for my own ECU) ... but each to their own.

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These join every phone line cable in NSW, look inside those cylindrical junction boxes and you will see hundreds of them, Ive used them on and of for the last 20 yrs and had no problems.

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if they cut only the insulation then there not making contact with the copper, so they must come into contact and therefor cut the copper wire to some degree.

Im guessing you'd have to know the thickness of your insulation to get the right size of those joiny thingos... seems to much of a pain in the ass considering the consequences could be no connection or cut wire.

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a while ago i thought i'd give those little clip things a go, to install a SAFC on my old 32. driving up the motorway one day and the unit just died, hence my car died. not fun at 100kph. it was that little clip splicer thing that wasn't giving a good connection, and yes i did use the correct sized one for the cable i was splicing. i wouldn't recommend them to anyone.

what i like to do is cut the wire. strip the ends. slide a piece of heatshrink down the wire. solder it back up. slide the heatshrink over the join and shrink it down. you cant go wrong if you solder a wire properly.

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if they cut only the insulation then there not making contact with the copper, so they must come into contact and therefor cut the copper wire to some degree.

Im guessing you'd have to know the thickness of your insulation to get the right size of those joiny thingos... seems to much of a pain in the ass considering the consequences could be no connection or cut wire.

Put your credit card against your leg, is it touching your leg, has it cut your leg.

Do you use M8 bolts to go onto a M6 nut, of course not, you use the correct size.

Ive connected up my shift light recently in 20 seconds, that included wrapping the connection in insulation tape, and, there is no drop in volts from the ECU to the light.

Ive used these for 20 odd years and if you do the job correctly you wont have any problems.

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