Jump to content
SAU Community

Damo's R32 Gts-r, On Going Project Fun Car. History And Use Full Info


Recommended Posts

Thanks for the positive comments guys.

best thing about pictures is they hide all the dodgy bits. its far from immaculate.

just incase people haddent pick up on it the black car isnt my car it just has some of my bits on it. this seemed to confuse the hell out of people at the Tas drift festival on the weekend. it kinda looked like my car and the owner of it and i used to be team mates so they didnt know whos it was. ive been getting complements for building it and Steve has been getting offeres to buy it.

proves to me that all you need is some tuff wheels (weather they fit right or not) and a tuff exhaust note. (helped by a screamer pipe) and people love it. we had people looking over the car all weekend. to us its a pig compared to what we usualy work on so its a surprise to see the reactions. we were like "havent you ever seen a real car before" but i think there is a certan look that a drift pig generates. the ill fitting body work. rattle can painted pannels. tuff unfitting wheels. tuff and rugged sounding engine and then seeing some one drive it on the limmit for 40-50 secconds without holding back for fear of braking somthing.

Update for my own car. :)

brought a turbo and manifold today. second hand off some dodgy bloke i know. said it was like new and stuff.

anyway its in the GT30 range. no one really cares.

what does matter is ill have Gate soon enough. hahaha

manifold looks like this.

mani2.jpg

mani1.jpg

for the haters, yes its a T4 flange with a T3 adapter. I had a ebay special a while back and the runner size and quality is much grater than the ebay job. this manifold also takes the Tial 44mm Vband gate or turbo smart 45mm Vband.

Tial have just relised a water cooled version of the 44mm gate but i dont think ill be trying to over complicate the setup just yet.

also after many weeks waiting for a parcel all the way from Melbourne i got these.

redtopcovers.jpg

RB20 red top cam covers. after seeing them used in a workshops demo car in HPI a while ago these became cooler than smashing the back out of a 18yo. i got these at the right price but im not sure if they are somthing ill use or on sell.

my current cam covers have Mines style cam baffeles welded in them. you cant buy a direct fit part so i had a look at the design and figured it wansnt to hard to emulate using the rb25det covers.

DSC02038copy.jpg

DSC02037.jpg

all in all its a good days buying. haha.

RB20 red top cam covers. after seeing them used in a workshops demo car in HPI a while ago these became cooler than smashing the back out of a 18yo. i got these at the right price but im not sure if they are somthing ill use or on sell.

we all know 18 is waaay to old for you, i found this pic of you from the weekend

pedobear-scores.jpg

That manifold actually looks quite good compared to some of them ive seen.

Haven't seen you in a while Damo, I'll have to come check out some of your handy work.

for sure. still at the new house. i think you have been there once before. most friday nights we have a drinks night if you want to pop over and talk crap

Pfffffffffffffftttttttttttt. r33 brakes arent worth looking at.

i actiualy have r34 gtt brakes for any one that may have miss read it. good upgrade.

Friday night super special resulted in this.

24092010028.jpg

24092010030.jpg

24092010031.jpg

this is a donor GTR bar ready for hectic modding.

23092010020.jpg

and ive finaly finished the front work wheels. last part i was waiting on was getting all the bolts Zink coated. and while i was waiting i sparyed all the nuts matte black to match the rear.

the bolts had to be acid dipped twice to get the Zink to stick and to my plesant surprise the acid dipping revealved work writing on the. you can reall see in these pic thoe.

from this

DSC03118.jpg

to this

24092010021.jpg

24092010022.jpg

24092010024.jpg

now to get tyres fitted and try them on. then remover and repeat for the rears.

  • 3 weeks later...

been getting a bit done week by week. please excuse the phone pics. if youd like clearer pics ill go back to a normal camera but its way more eficent for me to use a phone camera.

got tyres fitted to the front works rims and fitted them. im very happy with the fitment. this pic is not a good example.

07102010048.jpg

Started back into my drift car.

ive had to make a new front reo bar. i used an old bent one and unstiched all the bits i didnt want. on the left is what i started with and on the right is what i was left with

11102010053.jpg

i have a GTR cooler and i use the top standard mounts to mount it to the reo bar so i had to weld on some brackets

11102010056.jpg

than after some initial test fitting i found it was to low in the middle and it covered to much of the cooler so i made it do this

12102010061.jpg

and that made it look like this

11102010058.jpg

painted up ready to roll

17102010065.jpg

A few weeks back i got a hold of a S14 sub frame to comepare pick up points. this is some of the results

28092010038.jpg

28092010039.jpg

the front mount has been cut off the r32 item but the silver bar projects where it would have been. the front pick up of the s14 frame is substancialy lower.

i then stripped out the inside of the car once again. im hoping to tidy it up once and for all and never have to pull it apart again. its a real squez to get the full dash pad out with the cage in. im hoping to also de-loom the engine bay as i do this for other people but have never bothered to toutch my own car.

17102010067.jpg

then i decided to start cutting the floor up ready for the new dump pipe im building. the point where the dump pipe is at its lowest under the passenger foot well has always been to low on my car and i plan on going to a bigger diamiter dump pipe so cutting the floor seemed like a good option. So far the only hassel has been some of the extra body work stiched in to that area for the gearbox cross member but i will weld in something that will be stronger than the original anyway. i am also planning on cutting and boxing the section at the back of the passenger seat so i can run a straight pipe from the firewall back with only a mild kink up and out at the back.

17102010068.jpg

it may seem like a fair hassel but ive been over plenty of ripple strips and the exhaust cops a hiding and this movement can cause all sorts of problems futher back on the turbo side as far as cracking manifolds and studs ect that could end a good days racing. so i file it under a reliability thing rather than time waste.

Edited by DJRIFT

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I certainly fall into the annoyed camp, but glad to hear that if it's happening at low boost then I'm not likely going to blow a turbo and end up with metal shards in my oil. Just feels like it prevents me from really driving it without hesitation and "peak" performance. Wonder if it's the VCAM, it did an impressive job of shifting the torque curve and faster spool, but maybe now it's "too fast" and there's too much air for how open the throttle is.  Based on some other threads, will also do some reading on synchronizing the actuators. They are the default actuators that come on the Garrett's and I would think they would be set the same coming from the factory, but if the turbos don't actually work exactly the same way at the same time as previously mentioned, it would be worth making sure the actuators are actuating together properly
    • I went down this rabbit hole before, ended up sourcing a motor from the UK (I'm in Japan) which also didn't function correctly. With the original motor, I disassembled it and reassembled it and it works somewhat, sometimes. What I could deduce from all my screwing around is that there is calibration of the gears on the inside of the motor and two ramps on the main gear which activate switches that operate the motor and move the sunroof either to retract into the roof or tilt. Where I got stuck was that, it seemed in my case that one or both of the switches that are activated by the ramp on the gear did not always activate and thus the motor did not move, causing it to sometimes not retract or tilt (apologies, I've forgotten which way it didn't work.).  Of course this part is discontinued at Nissan now, it's the same part in the S15 but no other models. I also contacted the manufacturer of the component for schematics - forgot the name, they're based in Gifu - but they declined to share the information due to being bound by an NDA, sadly. Looking through my pictures now, it seems I last had a crack at this in 2022. See, I so kindly wrote "open" and "close" next to the switches. If you figure it out, please do tell me. Those little switches, with the red buttons may need to be replaced.
    • It says 300ZX, does that make it an Aus delivered car? Funny how back in the day I just couldn't care less about Z32's and these days I am just in love with them. Back when Nissan was into pushing the envelope. 🤣
    • Hi guys, just after some guidance with an R34 sunroof that has stopped working correctly. It still opens and closes perfectly fine, but it no longer tilts/vents up or down. As a result, the rear of the glass now sags a bit as it drops down slightly in order to retract into the roof, but now it can't pop upwards into a flush position. I’ve probed the pins on the back of the switch connector with a multimeter and it seems like both switches (for open/close and tilt/vent) still work correctly. Any ideas on what it could be, or where I should even start in terms of diagnosing? I'm sure someone's had this issue before but I haven't been able to find anything online relating to this specific issue, most of the issues are with the seals leaking or the motor failing entirely. Thanks in advance!
×
×
  • Create New...