Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 141
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

lol adis, either there is something wrong with your car, with your driving, or you didnt have anywhere near that power on the day. I've seen multiple R33's with stock ECU's + mods break into the high 13's. The R33 coupe in my driveway has 245 falk's on 18's and it really struggles with traction when hitting boost in first and/or quick shifting second, and yes it chirps third, and power wouldn't be near yours, maybe 170ish..........

This is my drag run in my dirty R31 wagon, with stock VL turbo management, and 10psi on a KKR430, FMIC, 2.5" sidepipe (no mufflers). Ran consistant flat 14's, the worst being 14.18 and the best being 14.02 (spewing that i didn't crack 13's) the car would be lucky to have 160kW at the wheels, and is of similar weight to your R33. (32C track temp)

The temperature of the gasses inside the exhaust are important. The more heat you can trap in the exhaust the better. The hotter the gases, the faster they travel. Since thermodynamics is a study of energy conversion between heat and mechanical work it is relevant. Why do you think keeping as much heat inside of an exhaust manifold and exhaust housing is an important part of spooling a turbo. The hotter you can make it, the better. So while i agree on this discussion on NA cars it is mainly fluid dynamics, thermodynamics are just as important considering most of us on here drive turbocharged vehicles.

Any back on topic.

Sure but if you consider the 'zaust post-turbo, I do not know for sure if insulating the system is going to make the car faster or slower.

I mean the hotter the 'zaust gasses the faster the flow rate but this in turn means it creates more friction and in turn more 'back pressure'.

Cooler 'zaust gases won't flow as fast (less volume) as so this means less friction and a lower 'back pressure' (although the gasses are denser but pressure loss is more effected by velocity than density)

Would be interesting to dyno some cars with and w/ & w/out 'zaust lagging.

Edited by Tony de Wonderful
actually they have tuned length headers. they have made the length of those pipes to the exact length that they need to make maximum power. they haven't just slapped on a few lengths of pipe to simple have the flames clear the engine block.

This is to do with pulse tuning rather than 'back pressure' per se.

Would you not need a re-tune?

not really. if the tune was done properly then it should still be well within it's limits, considering that people with the stock ecu more than double the low boost setting if they wind the boost up to 11 or 12psi, plus add FMICs and turbo back exhausts and the ecu still copes. in some cases they would be gaining close up to around 70kw over stock. any gain from dropping the exhaust off would be 10 or 15kw, which would be less than the difference between a cool winters night and a hot summers day

This is to do with pulse tuning rather than 'back pressure' per se.

yes i do agree with you there, however i was merely pointing out that they don't just have an open exhaust.

wtf this topic has got 6 pages of crap now??!

u guys are going to much in depth... should of kept it simple liek what others are saying; learn to drive the thing properly, take times on a reasonably cooler day and take into consideration its only a non turbo... not this coooler and hotter exhaust fumes crap tahts just bs that stuff really matters to those who actually have drag setup cars.. not dailys that jus wanna see how much thrashing there car can withstand!

Oh our discussion has nothing to do with this thread, i know that lol. This happens in the forced induction section all the time, we're quite used to it now. A simple thread about a BOV or something will turn into a great Engineering debate down to the complexicities of electrons and protons. Definetely keeps shit interesting :blush:

What suffers more on a hot day? An N/A or a forced induction car?

It is forced induction right because intercooler efficiency is logaritmic with respect to ambient temp?

OTOH an N/A engines power decreases linearly with respect to ambient temp increase?

It's really hot right now and my car peformance really sucks. :D

yeah turbo car def suck the big one when its hot.

hence why im getting a big shiney flux capacitoy for my engine bay.

This sucks, I wrote an epic post abot the exhaust scavenging efgfects but sau died and my post went with it :P

but if people are confused when talking about EGTs and how they effect things then you would all hate me with what i wrote about. but ill give you a jist.

Note this has nothing to do with FI cars

The exhaust pulses travel down the pipes at the speed of sound, than hit the atmosphere and bounce right back up the pipe to the ports, you can time this so that once the pressure waves bounce off the exhaust port and open exhaust valve and can draw of the remaining gasses and draw in the air fuel mix.

Depending on the size and length of the primary pipes (headers) this can be tuned to a particular rpm range (tuned length extractors)

Now this is what they mean about not enough back pressure, to get thios to happen on a exhaust with mufflers is nearly impossible so the mid/tail diameter needs to be smaller to keep the velocity up, this isnt really a drama on modern EFI engines as they are a lot more efficiant and muffler tech has improved quite a bit. so no you wont lose and top end horsepower witha 4" exhaust on your exel, but you can lose low and mid range torque.

To build an NA race exhaust basicly consists of, get your primary pipes tuned to suit your cam specs comp ratio, valve and port size (+3mm radius larger than your exhasut port gives zero restriction without effecting gas velocity) and then dump it all into the biggest bloody exhaust you can fit under the car.

There was more but it is 7:15am

Now this is what they mean about not enough back pressure, to get thios to happen on a exhaust with mufflers is nearly impossible so the mid/tail diameter needs to be smaller to keep the velocity up, this isnt really a drama on modern EFI engines as they are a lot more efficiant and muffler tech has improved quite a bit. so no you wont lose and top end horsepower witha 4" exhaust on your exel, but you can lose low and mid range torque.

To build an NA race exhaust basicly consists of, get your primary pipes tuned to suit your cam specs comp ratio, valve and port size (+3mm radius larger than your exhasut port gives zero restriction without effecting gas velocity) and then dump it all into the biggest bloody exhaust you can fit under the car.

There was more but it is 7:15am

Stock cars don't come with tuned length 'zausts though do they? So going for a wider 'zaust (and less back pressure) should have no downside right?

Edited by Tony de Wonderful

actually stock headers are tuned length. they are tuned for low rpm torque and economy. aftermarket headers are tuned for top end power. anything designed for performance use isn't going have much time put into seeing how it will performs at 2000rpm with light throttle since no one on a track day is going to be coming out of a corner at 2000rpm in 4th gear when they could drop it back to second and accelerate much harder. performance headers have most of their tuning done around the mid to top end. that is why it isn't uncommon to lose a slight amount of fuel economy after fitting extractors if you only drive like a granny round town.

actually stock headers are tuned length. they are tuned for low rpm torque and economy. aftermarket headers are tuned for top end power. anything designed for performance use isn't going have much time put into seeing how it will performs at 2000rpm with light throttle since no one on a track day is going to be coming out of a corner at 2000rpm in 4th gear when they could drop it back to second and accelerate much harder. performance headers have most of their tuning done around the mid to top end. that is why it isn't uncommon to lose a slight amount of fuel economy after fitting extractors if you only drive like a granny round town.

Is that possible? I mean a stock manifold is shared rather than being a set of headers and you have a muffler (or two). Seems to me that would all screw up your pulses at any RPM? :P

how much exhaust gas do you think an engine is flowing cruising along at 3000rpm and maybe 10% throttle when compared to 7000rpm and 100% throttle? a hell of a lot less, that's for sure. that is why they can use a shared header system. the exhaust gas from all cylinders at light throttle is probably less than from 1 cylinder at 100% throttle.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
×
×
  • Create New...